3k-One Year-30's Ford-Rat Rod Build Thread

[Wolfco]

stock steering shaft enters the box on the right.

modified box shaft enters from the left.

[Wolfco]

I chopped the spline portion off the steering arm, ground it a bit, made a mandrel (pc of pipe) and slid the spline section onto the pipe so i could turn the diameter on the lathe. I press fit the splined spud into the pipe and welded it. I will need to install a nut on the end of the spline shaft to hold this onto the steering box. The socket will not fit inside this pipe, so i will weld a 1" nut onto the top of the 1 1/4" OEM nut.....i will use the cotter pin to ensure safety....

[Wolfco]

this is how i got the steering shaft straight...i used the dial indicator and tapped lightly until it was concentric and tack welded it....it is within .005"

[willowbilly3]

Will your new pitman shaft have support? I considered the same method but decided it was too long to be unsupported so I did this on mine. A bit clunky but funtional and not visible.

[Wolfco]

Thanks for the pic of your setup ....i think your design is functional, takes up any misalignment and the farmer style spherical ball flange bearing is the ideal support. I just might change my design to be like yours!!

Yes, i was planning on some sort of outward bearing located right at the body area, but it would need to be a large 2" plastic bearing or other support structure...finding a sealed 2" ID bearing would be spendy....thanks for the picture and help on this!
JEff

[Wolfco]

I taped off the tires and painted the wheels ACE REGAL red...this is good paint for $3.99/can. It took one can to do both front wheels..i painted front and back sides. I washed the steel wheels with soapy water and then wiped with acetone to make sure they were clean.

The rear wheels are ford 5 1/2" wide OEM steel wheels. These are from a donor truck i bought for the project for the rear end, but the rear end was too wide so i scrapped the truck..(i got it for free on Craigslist)....i kept the wheels. I sandblasted the wheels at work, we have a HUGE sandblaster....I primed and painted the rear wheels before mounting the tires....we also have tire machine at work, so that was a freebie also.... That might help keep this project under the 3k max target.
Jeff

[Wolfco]

Again, here are the cheater slicks and the Ford rear wheels, Ace Regal Red.

$3.99/can painted both wheels. I primed these too....I need to add that to the list of expenses...

Free mounting and sandblasting (at work).

[Wolfco]

I drilled lightening holes in the front axle...just for looks. I think this looks cools so i figured it couldnt hurt....This is a forged axle, so a few small holes in the mid section shouldnt hurt.....I used my drill press and a UNIBIT...i bought this cheap bit at NOrthern Tool and thought it would be good for a couple holes, and it worked GREAT... i used plenty of oil and slow bit speed. I left the wishbones attached and barely fit the axle into the drill press...but it worked out OK.

Jeff

[Wolfco]

I bought new tie ROD ends....safety first!! this old 1941 front end had decent tie rod ends, but i wasnt willing to take any chances! These tie rod ends are from Speedway motors for $9.99 each. I added antiseize to the threads prior to assembly. I also chopped off an extra mount for the drag link using my chop saw, and ground the end of the steering arm for appearance...I will be using COWL steer or a parallel drag link (parallel to chassis) so i didnt need the extra hole in the steering arm..

[Wolfco]

I assembled the front end, new kingpin bushings, pins, seals, bearings, grease etc....I bought the chrome steering arm for $7.00 at a Swap meet. It has a $10 tag on it, but the guy let it go for $7 bucks.....

[Wolfco]

Here is the list i have so far..i am missing the shipping from Speedway on some small parts, and didnt include gas when i went to the Swapmeet or when i picked up the radiator (using my motorcycle!)....I think there is chance to make it......Project 3k.....I know that the little stuff adds up quickly!

List as of 7/19/08

50 radiator grill shell E Bay
$110 350 engine/trans (300-190 for scrap) Craigslist want ad
50 2 front tires and wheels Swap meet
100 front axle Craigslist want ad
7 steering arm-chrome Swap meet
-120 Scrap Ford F150-bought for rear end Craigslist want ad
165 airbags Ebay
9 airhorn ebay
50 radiator Craigslist want ad
20 brake master cylinder Craigslist want ad
brake lines
220 Rear -15" cheeter slicks Swap meet
125 front brakes Ford F100 drums, hubs Craigslist want ad
20 heim joints-front wishbones speedway motors
148 Frame steel Winnick Steel
39.99 Kinpgin bushing kit speedway motors
100 Ford 9" rear end Kirk-friend
39.99 bearing kit, F100 to Ford spindle speedway motors
seat
driveshaft
headlights
12.18 Red paint/primer for wheels 2 cans ACE Ace
3 tire patch-removed a plug TMS
20 2 tie rod ends speedway motors

1799.16

[Wolfco]

I added the cab, box, floor shifter...just over $1800 bucks.
Rat Rod Price List Project 3k
Price Item description From
$630.00 1930s Box and Cab E Bay
$50.00 radiator grill shell E Bay
$110.00 350 engine/trans (300-190 for scrap) Craigslist want ad
$50.00 2 front tires and wheels Swap meet
$100.00 front axle Craigslist want ad
$7.00 steering arm-chrome Swap meet
$(120.00) Scrap Ford F150-bought for rear end Craigslist want ad
$165.00 airbags Ebay
$9.00 airhorn ebay
$50.00 radiator Craigslist want ad
$20.00 brake master cylinder Craigslist want ad
brake lines
$220.00 Rear -15" cheeter slicks Swap meet
$125.00 front brakes Ford F100 drums, hubs Craigslist want ad
$20.00 heim joints-front wishbones speedway motors
$148.00 Frame steel Winnick Steel
$39.99 Kinpgin bushing kit speedway motors
$100.00 Ford 9" rear end Kirk-friend
$39.99 bearing kit, F100 to Ford spindle speedway motors
seat
driveshaft
headlights
tail lights
$12.18 Red paint/primer for wheels 2 cans ACE Ace
$3.00 tire patch-removed a plug TMS
$20.00 2 tie rod ends speedway motors
$7.00 1970 Chevelle Floor shifter and cable Swap meet
$1,806.16

[oldrodder43]

WOW! I don't particularly care about the build cost per se, but the component finds etc. are great. Great reading. Personally, I think a 5" chop a little extreme, but what the heck, it ain't my rat. Keep it up. Perley

[Itoldyouso]

It's really looking good and coming along well Jeff. I know what you mean, I have some of the gold drill bit sets Harbor Freight sells, and they last and last. Some of their stuff is crap, but some is a real bargain.

Hope you hit your $3K figure.........I KNEW it could be done.

Don

[Wolfco]

I bought this 9" Ford rear end from a friend for $100. The tag on it says
"3 L 50" which means 3.50 ratio and L = locking differential. NICE !! It is from a 70 or 71 Ford Bronco.

When I turn the pinion both axles spin in the same direction. That is good, now i wont need to weld the spiders ......i was going to make this a Lincoln Locker"!! (welded by a Lincoln welder for those who havent heard that one)

The brake parts are really rusty so i sandblasted them at work. The drums were rusty too...i need new wheel cylinders too. I needed to pound the pistons to get them out...they are shot. A friend has a Bronco with the same rear end and is converting to disc, so i am getting all his good brake parts and will choose the best parts for my car. His wheel cylinders are good too....I hope too use them.