3k-One Year-30's Ford-Rat Rod Build Thread

[Wolfco]

I found a radiator on Craigslist, paid too much at $50 but i needed it to continue...i needed to know the size and shape so i could make the frame. The ford F150 Radiator fits perfectly into the Model A grill shell...just trim off the radiator brackets (on the side) a bit and it fits really nice. After mocking things up, i decided to remove the mechanical fan, and will use electric. The mechanical fan will contact the radiator hoses and wont work for my application.

[Wolfco]

I bought 4 airbags from Ebay. I dont know anything about airbags but i think i can figure it out. 2 Bags are 2500# and 2 are 2600# bags...i think that is max rating at max 500psi pressure...I will be running 100 psi, more if i need to.

Collapsed these bags are 2.75 front bags and 3.0" for the rear. WIth 100psi the bags supposed lift to 9" and 10" respectively. I think that is correct... i will double check prior to making parts to mount them.

The rear bags will lift directly on the rear axle. The front will use a "lever" arm and the bags will be mounted just behind the radiator. This will "hide" the bags inside the frame area, and the lever will allow me to get more lift that the bag would normally allow (mechanical advantage)..... I dont want to need to "top out" the airbag and run at max pressure....i would like to run the bags at around 75% lift for a good ride.

[Wolfco]

I needed a method to hold the 350 Engine in the exact configuration/placement for the frame build so i built this engine stand. It is on small caster wheels, and is adjustable from oil pan on ground to around 10 inches up...The front has adjustable slider rods that can go up/down, the rear is static at tranny pan 3/4" from the ground, and you merely 'shim' up the back with 2x4s or whatever is handy. I am building a LOW rider, and will have the oil pan 1" off the dirt, and the tranny pan about 3/4" off the dirt when the frame is dropped to the ground. I wanted to go lower with the engine but didnt want to poke a hole in the bottom of the engine or tranny when parking. A sharp rock could cause damage.
I used a level on the carb and made sure the tranny pan was level, i was amazed at how much the engine is tilted downwards in the rear, but the trans pan is level. Now i can use this engine stand to hold the engine in the correct height and build the frame on the garage floor....this will be handy and make life easy. I can even build the motor mounts while leaving the engine on this stand. The engine is held under the front edge of the oil pan flange, and under the bottom of the tranny pan. see the pics.

[Wolfco]

I removed around 12" from the box (shortened it)....i had to remove the fender mounting arches first, then the chop began.. Sawzall, sabre saw, and grinder....then the welder....I want the box to sit on the ground when parked (airbags) and the cab will also be on the ground.....so i will need to "notch" the box to fit over the ford 9" axle.. See the severe notch in the sheetmetal.....i will be building a removeable support strut/bracket to tie the box together underneath the axle, this removeable strap will make it easy to work on if i need to remove the axle or remove the box... The last pic is the "parked" height. I will inflate the bags to around a 6" lift for cruising.

[Wolfco]

The old box had stake pockets that were rotted out due to debris and water sitting in them for 78 yrs....i cut out the bottom panel and made a new one at work (thanks to Jordy at the shop! ...helped with the brake press).. welded in the panel...other pic of cutting driveshaft end in the lathe. I removed the old tube section in preparation for a new shaft.

[Wolfco]

I made my own rear suspension. This is a 3 link with upper link being a wishbone. The lower links are heavy .125 wall steel with long brackets welded to the axle to handle the rotational loads (torque from the axle wrap). I used rubber bushings in the 2 lower arms. The airbags will sit on the arms to get mechanical advantage and get 8" of lift from a bag that lifts only 6".

[Wolfco]

I fabbed some rear brackets from 2x4 tubing, 11 ga. This will be part of the frame and hold air so i can run each solenoid airbag valve close to the bag with short hoses!.....the bags sit low on the frame, everything needs to be tucked in tight under the short box area. I welded 3/8" threaded pipe fittings into the brackets for the air management.

[Wolfco]

a couple rear susp pics, 3 link wishbone using thick wall tubing and 3/4 inch heim joint....the tranny mnt supports the rear of the trans and sweeps up at the frame so i can run dual exhaust if needed. It is a frame draggin' SOB so there aint much room 'neath it. The trans mnt is e-z remove with the nut plates welded to the frame so you can merely run the power wrench from the underside...notice the holes in the frame were i am going to weld the airbag brackets?? these are air supply holes that i added with the plasma cutter...to get air into the bag brackets.

[Wolfco]

I mounted the engine last night after supper. If you read earlier in the post, i got a 1987 Ford 2 wh drive truck free from Craigslist. I took the cab mounts from the truck, they still had the rubber body mounts and studs and looked like a part i could use! Great for engine mounting! i got a couple used con-rods from work (at Victory Motorcycles) and with a bit of time with MR Torch and a bit-o-heat i bent the rods to fit perfectly. I welded the con rods to a triangle plate that bolts to the engine. One plate was existing (a shim from mounting this engine in the ambulance/camper thing)...the other was made from the old LH engine mnt using the plasma torch and a grinder (thanks Steve!)....my buddy Steve stopped by one afternoon to help out. I chopped the piston pin in the chop saw and ground it smooth, it had a center hole that fit perfectly over the bolt in the old body mount...looks cool, forged con rod should be strong enough!! i hope

[Wolfco]

A few pics of the front suspension components.

This is not a transverse leafer. It is a custom built airbag bellcrank front suspension. I wanted to be different than the other rods out there. I built the pivot bushings from Delrin, machined on a CNC at work (thanks Jordy!)...the rocker pivot shafts are 1" thick wall tubing, and the bellcranks are 1.75" tubing. The arms are 1/2" thick plate. I made paper templates to get the geometry correct. The 6" bag will lift the car 7.75" due to mechanical advantage of the arm lengths. it works quite nicely.

[Wolfco]

Here are some pics of the front end. The rod will LAY FRAME or run at 7.75" off the ground .....the frame will hold 100 psi of air for the air tank, on board compressor, 4 way air bag (individual control)....

The car is 44" tall when parked.

This should be a crowd pleaser at the shows....

I hope it rides well. The shocks are the shortest i could find on the MOnroe website, they are 8.25 compressed and 12.5 extended...they were used for years like 1948-56 for light cars, Willys, VW etc....

Jeff

[Wolfco]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uq0ZzzAoOnU

cut and paste if you want to see the video of the car lifting. thanks

[sgo70]

Jeez, ya got me confused, that'll be neat to see when you're done. You seem very creative, I'm still trying to figure out how it all works .

Sean

[ScooterCO]

NICE! Very Cool!
Oh yea, "Sick"

[maddddog]

You, my friend, are a madman!!
You started this thread on 6/18 and now its 10/7, WOW!
I watched your video of the air bags. Very cool.
I especially like the way you did the front end.

You are an inspiration!!, but hurry up, would you?