Thread: Throttle cable dilemma

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Originally Posted by C9x

The spacing between the two mounting bolts?

And the length of the upper arm and lower pedal arm end?

For the first, yes,

For the second, between the pivot pin and throttle link hole (i.e. from the middle to the top)

Originally Posted by IC2

For the first, yes,

For the second, between the pivot pin and throttle link hole (i.e. from the middle to the top)

Mounting bolt holes are 2" apart vertically.

Pivot center to throttle hole is 4 3/4".


Fwiw, The Gennie Shifter has splines and a setscrew arrangement so you can alter the angle between throttle rod arm and spoon arm.

As assembled, the GS has the spoon on the left and throttle arm on the right.
Which, works well for just about all of the cars I've seen to date that run this arm.
If need be you could flop the spoon and throttle arms and get the arms 3/4" opposite from where they are now.


Fwiw - the all aluminum Teflon bushed throttle pedal I made has a one piece spoon and throttle rod arm.
It's centered on the bracket . . . and for my specific car - the 31 on 32 rails roadster.


If you're looking at the measurements for curiosity sake, ok, but sometimes companies make running changes during manufacture and the measurements can be a little different.
I'd wait before I drilled any holes.
I was careful in the measuring, but nothing quite like having the piece on hand before cutting metal.


A couple years back Moon told me that the new screw-on discs had the same factory bolt pattern (3) and spacing as the factory drilled ones from years past.
Not true, I bought the new ones and they were off from the old discs I'd originally put on the car.

Dunno if the pics will help, but it'll give you an idea.
Disregard the size 10 shoe, it's slid too far up on the pedal.








My pal built his 29 roadster with a chrome plated steel throttle arm.
Priced about half of what the polished stainless arm in my 32 was.
Seemed like it worked out ok.
I drove the car a few times and didn't notice any play in the bushing.

Thanks for the dimensions.

It wasn't curiosity - I was worried that the bracket holes were going to be way different then what I had drilled for the piece of junk currently in the car plus the linkage hole would be too far off. The dims you gave me will put a Gennie right in place with no mods or at worst case no more then minor oversizing of one with a rattail file.

The way you describe the pedal 'as supplied' is how mine is currently set up - and from what I've seen, most universal pedals will reverse.

I'm going to order the SS version - heck, it's only money - and at this point, another $30 beyond the chrome version..........

I'm glad that I had the 2 extra 1/4" Heims - they have just been used. I was looking at the link between my Lokar shifter and the arm on the transmission. One of their supplied links was splitting open and the ball was coming loose - it was one of those cheap sheet metal Heims. And yes, the alignment was fine.

Any problems with the Pacific Western wiper motor? I KNOW that it NEVER rains in AZ, but...... I have one as well, rather then use one of those marine clunks that seem so popular.

Originally Posted by IC2

I'm glad that I had the 2 extra 1/4" Heims - they have just been used. I was looking at the link between my Lokar shifter and the arm on the transmission. One of their supplied links was splitting open and the ball was coming loose - it was one of those cheap sheet metal Heims. And yes, the alignment was fine.

Any problems with the Pacific Western wiper motor? I KNOW that it NEVER rains in AZ, but...... I have one as well, rather then use one of those marine clunks that seem so popular.

Sometimes it does.



Fwiw, you can buy fair quality Heims at Orchard Supply, tractor stores and the like.
The tractor stores tend to have the pressed sheet metal Heims and hardware stores will have a very Heim looking Heim joint.
Quality as noted is fair and not up to what you get at an aircraft supply house or at a bearing house, but it can get you out of a tight spot.
It did once after little brother bent a male Heim on his Lenco shifter.

Last bearing house 1/4" Heims I bought - about 2 years back - were $7. each.

The Pacific Raingear wiper works ok, but I depend on Rain-X and seldom run the PR wiper . . . 'cept by accident once in a while when I inadvertently hit the switch.
The headlights, parking lights, heater and wiper switch are under the dash and about an inch apart.
EZ to hit the wrong one now and then

With a chopped windshield it doesn't cover much of the windshield.

First time out with the roadster I ran into a fog bank and it was tough seeing through the little hole from the cut-down wiper blade.

This pic shows how far the blade needs to be cut down.

One rainy day out of how many - where I'm at, there's usually more rain then Buffalo(but a lot less snow ).

I too depend on Rain-X even for my DD F350 Guzzle10. The Pacific Western wiper is mostly for NY State Inspection and NSRA 23. I have a 13.25 DeLuxe roadster frame so will have some of the same situation

The Heims that I bought were fairly cheap from McMaster Carr and with overnight shipping from NJ, you can't beat it. The high strength 1/4" were $5.11 each and the 10-32's were $4.97 each. Even with shipping, it was still cheaper then cranking up the Guzzle10 and running round trip, 40 miles, to Albany and the bearing store.

I'm finally doing the last bolt in and adjustment of my Gennie $hifter throttle pedal. While the dimensions are identical to the sloppy POS that I had, the linkage wouldn't line up quite right. Pulled it apart and that $92 pedal had a .125 bend the wrong way - a quick removal to my vise, a whang with my dead blow hammer and all is now right.

I really don't mind making 'adjustments' to a lot (most?) of the aftermarket parts I buy as they are in most cases a very low production run item. But something as basic and having been around for many years as this pedal shouldn't have a twist or a bend (I also should have seen the bend, but..... )

Originally Posted by IC2

I'm finally doing the last bolt in and adjustment of my Gennie $hifter throttle pedal. While the dimensions are identical to the sloppy POS that I had, the linkage wouldn't line up quite right. Pulled it apart and that $92 pedal had a .125 bend the wrong way - a quick removal to my vise, a whang with my dead blow hammer and all is now right.

I really don't mind making 'adjustments' to a lot (most?) of the aftermarket parts I buy as they are in most cases a very low production run item. But something as basic and having been around for many years as this pedal shouldn't have a twist or a bend (I also should have seen the bend, but..... )

Dave, The Gennie throttle pedal was designed specifically bent the wrong way just for you. Gennie was taking into consideration that your gas pedal foot might be REAL HEAVY and with you really getting on the gas Gennie figured you would bend it in the RIGHT direction making it line up perfectly!

Originally Posted by stylingZ

Dave, The Gennie throttle pedal was designed specifically bent the wrong way just for you. Gennie was taking into consideration that your gas pedal foot might be REAL HEAVY and with you really getting on the gas Gennie figured you would bend it in the RIGHT direction making it line up perfectly!

I work best finessing errant parts problems with big hammers. It really wasn't a problem as such, just disappointing. I also have the Gennie head light bar but didn't have any fit up problems(well none that a sharp drill bit taken to my 'glass front fenders didn't cure )

I agree, it is disappointing to take a brand new item out of the box and have to rebuild it before you can use it. There are a few manufacturers whose products are perfect when you get them, and it is really refreshing when you find them.

Don