Thread: Throttle cable dilemma

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This is what I ended up with along with a chunk of 309 SS rod. The rod ends are not SS though but "A PTFE-lubricated, carbon-fiber-reinforced plastic race provides wear resistance and doesn't require lubrication. Rod ends are three-piece and have a zinc-plated steel housing and ball". These have almost twice the load capacity of the SS versions. I suspect that a bit of 0000 steel wool will polish them just fine then a coat of clear will keep 'em shiny. UPS will deliver today!!!!

Now that you've spent the money and are standing guard at the mailbox, there's another way out.

Which . . . still makes use of the Heims and rod.


Set up a bracket with bell crank or a simple swinging arm near the front of the engine (or at least in front of the carb throttle arm), run the throttle cable to it.

Run a short rod with Heims back to the carburetor.

That way, the firewall seal is easy and you have a smooth, long turn to the bellcrank/arm.

Originally Posted by C9x

Which . . . still makes use of the Heims and rod.


Set up a bracket with bell crank or a simple swinging arm near the front of the engine (or at least in front of the carb throttle arm), run the throttle cable to it.

That way, the firewall seal is easy and you have a smooth, long turn to the bellcrank/arm.

Too much complication ....and there really are no spare manifold bosses with tapped hole left ahead of the carb. What I will be doing is making up something like your "weather guard' using a couple of.25 thick X 2" dia. aluminum round stock, a piece of .125 neoprene outside and possibly another inside. The rise and fall will probably be minimal (need to 'calculate it' ) so vertical splits in the neoprene should do me

I failed to explain it earlier, but the throttle rod heat guard/pass through has a Teflon floater within that follows the vertical travels of the throttle rod.

The one on the 32 is about 10 years old and the original hole in the Teflon floater was drilled 1/4".
The 1/4" rod fit the 1/4" hole with a bit of friction, but not much.
A few months later it was very free and hasn't shown any further wear.

Well, made up a nice piece of throttle linkage - but used 3/16 (10-32 instead of the 1/4") as my Edelbrock carb is set up for that size. Now I have a spare pair of 1/4" Heims - but no big deal, they'll get used eventually somewhere.

I measured well and drilled a 3/8 - 7/16 hole. Every thing lines up nicely - that is except the fact that my throttle pedal has major bushing slop - like ~1/2 at the linkage bolt hole/tip. I don't recall what brand it is, but it isn't a cheapy. I could easily fix it if I had a lathe or a mill, but since I don't have either, I need some recommendations for another brand of pedal that is well made. Obviously the Lokar and Billet Specialties are the prime pieces - but at $100 or so bucks, makes me want to pursue other choices first. Any suggestions ????

My 32's Gennie Shifter throttle pedal has very little play.
Even now, 14 years and 48,000 miles later.

I guess I've narrowed it down - either the Gennie or the Speedway Mr Roadster version. I used a TCI on my last car, but it appears that they no longer offer them. That, too, was a nice solid pedal.

C9 - a "help me" question - what is the approximate firewall bracket bolt centerline dim and secondly, the arm centerline dims from the pivot to the linkage hole. Since I already have firewall holes, want to know if I need to make up some brackets as well.

As always, thanks