Thread: Converting from diesel to gas power

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How can I get my speedometer to work or is that stupidly easy to work out.

How can I get my speedometer to work or is that stupidly easy to work out? Do you know how i can post a picture of my white beauty?

The speedo will be difficult, I don't know the factory "ratio" for the number of cable turns vs. speedo displayed speed.

It is printed under the speedo display on VDO clusters, if yours is a VDO.

Once you have the ratio, you need the final drive ratio of the diff and tire diameter.

Get with B & M and they can get you the correct drive gear to go in your TH350 or 700R4. You will have to figure out how to connect it to the Benz drive cable.

My gagez cluster is listed in Vdo with numbers i never knew what ment but now i do.

I have a couple of questions. one how can i fix the rusted out holes where the jack goes as they do not look good? I want to use aftermarket wheels and was thinking about crager ss rims but i know my bolt pattern is weird, how can i convert the bolt pattern to fit 5 by 4 1/4 pattern spacing.

I would also like to know, I belive my radatior is origional to the car meaning this has the copper core, My question is if i run that stuff that you add to your coolant and it gauruntees to drop your coolant temps 30 degrees, should i still change my radaitor if i go do this?

Does anyone have any information on this?

I have to give you props too madgrinder, but on this metric thead for the senders not knowing what size benz used, I work industrial hardware and they make metric to npt adapter to go from 1/8 npt to bs british standard or metric in most case to step to what ever sender or line the benz uses, I had to convert my triumph spitfire using one of these when I put some new gauges in it, I know a pirtek or fluid power, aeroquip should accomodate these adaptors or anderson brass pipe fittings at may be local hardware store may have a clue too.

as far as the radiator goes take what you have to a good radiator shop usually they can take your original brass tanks and recore and or construct it to cool what you have far cheaper than buy new or modifying something else to fit.

Originally posted by madgrinder
with the factory wiring and senders. 180* coolant in a Mercedes engine is the same as 180* in a Chevy.

Just retap the Chevy manifold and oil pressure ports to take metric threads, then size up or down as necessary with metric sleeve-adapters.

You will have to work out the throttle linkage, I haven't touched a 123 chassis in a year, at least.

Most people who buy a USED Mercedes can't afford to bring it to the dealer, and most who buy a NEW Mercedes get rid of it within 8 years.

OK, the watter whetter stuff- doesnt really matter if copper or aluminum. I personally prefer the copper, doesnt break under cold as easy. However, if you swapping over to a 350 fom a diesel, i would reccomend the radiator. Second, can you weld? I would make new plates across the frame(if there is one) and use a hydraulic jack. Finally, as for rims, mercedes are rather expensive cars. Rims should be able to be appropriated. After all, a 35K car USUALLY has an aftermarket.

I do not have a frame, the car is a unibody with a type of frame at the front and back, secondly is there any way i could use wheels form crager or an american wheel for an american car. I have looked at Benz wheels on the internet through one of those virtual mounting sites, where you can find your car in the list and it shows a picture that you can change the wheels on. there is only one set that i like and they are 269.00 a peice. I was looking for a chrome plated steel wheel in the 30- 50 dollar range.

Hi,
I had a 1981 Mercedes wagon powered by a 350 Chev with a 400 transmission. I think that the engine/ frame are the same as your car. (?). I can try to answer questions. I do not have the car anymore.

Here are a couple of things.
The exhaust headers have clearance problems. On My car they had installed an old chev rams horn header, with the lower, exit portion, cut off and rotated and welded back on. This cleared the steering box. ON the other side they had used some sort of Chev truck header.

THe transmission tunnel had to be pounded out a little at the front edge maybe only an inch. THis was done at the front where the firewall hits the floor.

The mercedes floor mounted shift gate worked the chev transmission with no modifications except to extend the linkage.

My car ran stock springs and shocks in the front.

I went nuts trying to get the heater to work. Problems was that there is a wire that must be grounded for it to work. I understand that on my car, this wire ran to the engine block swithch that did not permit the heater to work until the engine warmed up.

Gauges will be a problem. Mine had been all converted to VDO.

Good luck,
John
COlorado

That car was a 300TD? Did u have the stock rear end? All of my gauges are VDO as it is listed on the bottom of the gauge pod. My original motor is a 2.4 diesel with 4 spd automatic. Do u know how I can convert my wheel studs to mount a 5 x 4 1/4 bolt circle? I will be using hugger headders as the car will be a show car and they should be identical. Did u have the stock radiator? did u have all the accesories workin ( cruze ctrl, A/C )? Did u have to use the stock alternator but modify the bracket or, did u rewire the chargin system for the Chevy alternator? I do not know if I will do the project this year but, that may be a good thing so I can get an older car ( thinkin bout 71 Demon ) then sell it for 1200 or so than add that on top of next years earnings for this project, I would also have mor recearch done so I am prepared and am not " Winging it " as I would be if I started the project on my original schedualed time which was April 17 04. Also how much do u think this will cost just to get it to drive? Not includin performance parts and paint.

matt your rear end should handle it jest fine,for the rims ,check out whats available for the smaller toyota pick ups with a five stud pattern theyre interchangable

Hi
I just recalled a couple of things ont eht 350/ Mercedes conversions.

My rear end was stock and it held up fine. The vacume from the 350 Chevroled was sufficient to operate the mercedes power brakes.

The Mercedes has as strange way of operating the heater, power door locks etc. IT is a comfination of Vacuum and electril. If the vacume leaks ANYWHERE you have a big problem!

As I said previously, but the post did not show on this newsgroup, the proposed hugger headers will not work . The steering box is in the way.
I think that the radiator on my car was stock and it was no problem . I ran an electric fan in front of the radiator. Gauges are a major problem, mine had all aftermarket gauges. Cruse and a/c worked fine. Stock front springs handled the 350 chev.

I just do not recall, but I think that you may expect some clearance problems with the oil pan.
John
Colorado

Originally posted by Streets
Re-Thinking your "task" already Matt??

To tell you the truth, I don't know yet but, probably yes but, I will try to do the Benz next year when my funding and experience meters have both gone up. My dad has only dun one other motor mount changing and that was no show car. I would like to get an old car such as the 71 Demon or a 47 Chevy slantback 2dr that is 4 sale, and fix it up, drive it a little and then sell it for funding on my Mercedes. This will also give me expierence and, this is good because I want to do a good job on the Benz so I have somthing 2 show for myself and not a twisted up unibody cause it wasnt dun right. I think my desicions are very logical and so does my mom but, my dad does not know my change in plans yet as he would dissagree cause he wants 2 see My Benz with the V8 powerplant so if all goes well he'll do the same conversion with his car cept with crate engine and muncie 4 spd as his car is 4 spd manual, I think anyway