Thread: Powder coating frame versus painting.

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So, interesting reading Streetwerkz....Just how much does it cost to get the show quality powdercoating done on a complete frame and the suspension pieces?????

Don and his son have made there choice to powder paint, its there Hot Rod so they can not be wrong in that choice. This whole powder paint deal could turn into a huge pissing contest, so I choose not to play that flaming game, but I'm like Dave. Just how much "Reduced Cost" could there be with this what sounds like VERY labour intensive show quality powder paint job??

Roland

Wow, some very good info there from everyone. Glad to get input from a pro shop that sounds like you do top quality work.........wish you were here in Florida. I would like to hear also what a job like the one you described costs, if you wouldn't mind. It does sound labor intensive, or is some of that work done by the customer and returned to you for the next step?

Firebird, no I took the comment how you meant it, I thought that was funny. I do remember some cars that had all chrome frames............has to be the ultimate "oneupmanship" trick, but I hate even doing the minimal chrome I have.

I called a powder coater today to pick his brain a little. He also said Lab metal was not the way to go, said they did one frame where it turned out great, then did another and it was really bad when done. I guess it can shadow under the coating. Streetwerkz, what DO you recommend if a filler type product is used? Being that we have always treated surfaces that we want smooth just like any other body work, we generally did the filler/sanding routine, so our thinking was that we could fair in the frame imperfections the same way.

Thanks again everyone, I like the pros and cons all of you are tossing our way. It is a tough decision, but right now we are leaning toward coating it then doing the sanding and painting top coat on the outside rails to make those somewhat smoother. In the meantime we have a little more time to make the decision..........Dan has decided he needed two more support members at the back, so we spent Sat and Sun bending up tubing. I think it's overkill, but it's his car, so that is what we are doing right now.

Don

When I redid my Harley... I had the frame powdercoated... they matched my paint perfectly and everyone thinks it's painted...

i can not see why you could not fill pits with EZ grind mig wire i did this alot on body steel on door edges were filler would chip off or brass filler rod i would try out your tig ? i think you would not have to deal with the glass fluxs from a torch set or use the low melting filler rod muggy sales or the like lead filler eastwood has if you have need to do some fill. i have been told that some of the filler will gas out from the heat this could do with if it is thin steel or thick ?.i have work out steel with no filler if its not to bad you can fill and work out the steel with a body file and steel files use some chalk to rub in to the file stop the file from pluging up a 8 inch soft pad with 80 grit and then a da with a 6 inch pad 80to120 .the frame can be guide coated to see were you need to work the steel i do not use flap wheels they will not get any thing dead flat hope this help don

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

So, interesting reading Streetwerkz....Just how much does it cost to get the show quality powdercoating done on a complete frame and the suspension pieces?????

Just like anything else, could cost as much as a customer wants it to
I would say low $ (min prep.) to High $ (show quality) for a roller 120" wb car anywhere from $1000.00 to $4500.00 ( the highest $ we have done a roller for so far)

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I would like to hear also what a job like the one you described costs, if you wouldn't mind. It does sound labor intensive, or is some of that work done by the customer and returned to you for the next step?


I called a powder coater today to pick his brain a little. He also said Lab metal was not the way to go, said they did one frame where it turned out great, then did another and it was really bad when done. I guess it can shadow under the coating. Streetwerkz, what DO you recommend if a filler type product is used? Being that we have always treated surfaces that we want smooth just like any other body work, we generally did the filler/sanding routine, so our thinking was that we could fair in the frame imperfections the same way.


Don

If you have the capability you can braze with brass, or tig steel and sand (not being a jerk, just not aware of your tools, or skill set)
DO NOT USE LEAD, it will flow out during the cure cycle!
learned that the hard way a few years ago.
there are some high temp solders that work ok, hard as hell to sand, and they pin hole.
the product we use is sold to Mercedes for pre E-coat.
It's sold via a powder coat supply company called tiger drylac ,your local powder guy should be able to get it no problem. It applies like a plastic filler, however sanding is a little bit more fun than you typical "bondo" type plastic fillers.
for your frame to blast, minimal sanding of major imperfections, phosphate, single stage color usually around $500-$600 anything else (at our shop) is hourly rate + supplys.

Hope this helps you out

With all this good info, we are leaning more and more toward powder coating. Streetwerkz, you are going to be a great contributor to this forum, thank you so much for your honesty and obviously experienced suggestions. Two more questions:

1) Ok, Lab metal is out! What filler do you use and recommend and where do I get it? How easy is it to sand and fair?

2) After doing the filling steps, and sanding, does the frame need blasted again to give it tooth so the powder sticks?

Oh, and a third question. When you mention those prices for a "roller" what exactly do you include in that? How about a frame as I pictured?


Thanks to everyone again, this sort of community input really helps a guy make a good decision.

Don

if you use like lead that would be your filler

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

With all this good info, we are leaning more and more toward powder coating. Streetwerkz, you are going to be a great contributor to this forum, thank you so much for your honesty and obviously experienced suggestions. Two more questions:

1) Ok, Lab metal is out! What filler do you use and recommend and where do I get it? How easy is it to sand and fair?

2) After doing the filling steps, and sanding, does the frame need blasted again to give it tooth so the powder sticks?

Oh, and a third question. When you mention those prices for a "roller" what exactly do you include in that? How about a frame as I pictured?


Thanks to everyone again, this sort of community input really helps a guy make a good decision.

Don

answer to question #

1) filler is made by Tiger Drylac, your local powder coater should be able to get it for you. Problem is once applied, it needs to be cured in the oven, then sanded.
I did put some on a body once, and came back to it a week later at which time it was cured enough to sand.
It sands a lil harder than normal plastic filler, however there is almost pin hole free thanks to it density.

2) blasting is the very first step. any light flash rust that happens afterwords can be dealt with via a DA sander.
If you blast after the filler work is done, you will only mess your body work up.

3) frame as you pictured start at $500- $600 with blasting, minor sanding, phosphate pretreatment, then powder single stage color
anything else is our hourly shop rate

I posted this info earlier... my post vanished?

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

if you use like lead that would be your filler

lead will melt out

I have posted several answers to questions, don't know why they don't show up

Originally Posted by STREETWERKZ

lead will melt out

well look on eastwood they say it starts to melt at 428+ can be coated the like lead is not lead

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well look on eastwood they say it starts to melt at 428+ can be coated the like lead is not lead

I tried it, it does not work
there are some high temp solders, but they pin hole very bad, and a real pain to sand

Originally Posted by STREETWERKZ

I tried it, it does not work
there are some high temp solders, but they pin hole very bad, and a real pain to sand

well i tried looks looks like steel or brass filler and alot of filling and sanding

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well i tried looks looks like steel or brass filler and alot of filling and sanding

I have answered all these questions in 2 different reply's, which for some odd reason have yet to appear?!?!?!