Thread: Powder coating frame versus painting.

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I think it is a good way to go. It is cheap and durable, but....

You can have trouble matching the body color, or it may not match under all types of light.

If it sits in bare metal for too long, I know that just the moisture in the air can start rusting on a microscopic level. It looks good, but may show up later. I would sand and mold the frame before sandblasting, then coat it immediately.

My experience has been that some powdercoat will start fading long before good paint, so I would try to use the best prowdercoat products to combat this.

Very valid points Jay. I have to say the Centari I sprayed my A frame with years ago held up very well, even in Florida's sun. And Centari is nowhere hitech compared to some of todays stuff. But for the home hobbyist, like me, I think there are some benefits to doing the powder coat routine on some stuff.

If I had a booth to spray in it might be different, but doing it in the driveway sure is a pain in the butt. (not to mention bugs and dirt)

Don

Don, I am not opposed to P/C...just offering some things to be aware of. A lot of people assume painters are automatically against it.

There is good and bad in everything:

I like lacquer for artwork, but there are so many problems with it now, that I switched to all urethane...but it has it's shortcomings too.

Powdercoat and stick-on artwork, has taken over the sandrail market, and for good reasons, but the cars do not look as professionally finished.

Flat finish paints are an interesting, and lower priced alternative to "shiney", but there are disadvantages too.

...and so on. I often recommend things to people that make sense, even though they may be chosen over paint.

Yes currently color matching to paint is not easily done.
Current process requires a sample of the original color, and takes about 2 weeks to get manufactured, and cost minimum $800.00.

Typically we try to inform our customers to pick a powder color first, then match the paint to it, with over 6500 color available, people usually find something they like, and match the paint.

Yes some powders, just like some liquids are not as UV stable as others, clear coats ALWAYS extend the UV life , durability of powder... just like liquid.

the biggest thing to know is that both paint, and powder are polyester based products, and have more in common, than not like most people think.

Any quality, and informed Powder shop should be telling a similar story

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

Don, I am not opposed to P/C...just offering some things to be aware of. A lot of people assume painters are automatically against it.

There is good and bad in everything:

I like lacquer for artwork, but there are so many problems with it now, that I switched to all urethane...but it has it's shortcomings too.

Powder coat and stick-on artwork, has taken over the sand rail market, and for good reasons, but the cars do not look as professionally finished.

Flat finish paints are an interesting, and lower priced alternative to "shiney", but there are disadvantages too.

...and so on. I often recommend things to people that make sense, even though they may be chosen over paint.

show quality powder coat is achiveable... I agree most people do not get it done, or coater know how to, or care to do it.

I agree that powder coat, paint, vinyl graphics etc.. all have their place, and should be used accordingly.
each process can due so much, yet none of them can do everything

I know from experience that the color (black verses red for example) makes a difference on fading in the sun. Usage for me dictates the color I use.
Ken

My frame was powdercoated gloss black. Best way to go IMO if you plan on driving it. Durable as hell & laid down like paint- no peel at all. After a little "incident" on the freeway a year ago- taking the car totaly apart to re-coat the frame wasn't an option. So- repairs werre made, welding completed, frame scuffed & shot w/ 2 stage. 6 months later- I have 2 chips. Before- the frame went 10 years w/o 1 chip.