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Thread: The Roofus Special
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    RestoRod's Avatar
    RestoRod is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Graham Sharknose :58 MGA/Ford V6
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    Why not just cut the forward part of the springs off, solidly mount the center part to the frame and use them as quarter elliptics. You probably don't want the soft ride that cantilevered leafs would provide in this type of build anyway, and the "choppy" rebound can be controlled with a good set of shocks. Even those upper control arms could be lengthened to give you, essentially, a four link suspension.

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    Flipper_1938's Avatar
    Flipper_1938 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Finally figured out how the stock jag suspension worked....I think.

    It pivoted on the lower half of the spring pin. The upper half was mounted in rubber such that the pin couldn't catch anything. as the spring cycled, the top portion of the spring pack could move front to back.

    Here is my attempt to immitate the function.



    more almost free material was used for my spring boxes. ....cop car roll bars that dad bought at an auction. I used the 1/8" panel at the bottom.





    I overlapped the tops so I'd have double thickness on top.



    The insert captures the spring pin. It is secured by four 3/8" bolts and really beefs up the spring box when it is all bolted tight.
    There are two things in life where penetration is really important.....and one of them is welding.

  3. #3
    Flipper_1938's Avatar
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    Here's how the box fits into the overall car. The box I just made made will be behind the seat. The front bucket (upside down box) will be under the seat.







    Here is a view that shows the eurothane bushing inside the box. It sits over the spring pin.



    Still have a lot of figuring out to do. the nuts will be welded to the side of the box to make it easier to re-assemble in a finished car. Need to remeber to keep the bolts accesible when I build more of the rear bulkhead.
    There are two things in life where penetration is really important.....and one of them is welding.

  4. #4
    Flipper_1938's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RestoRod View Post
    Why not just cut the forward part of the springs off, solidly mount the center part to the frame and use them as quarter elliptics. You probably don't want the soft ride that cantilevered leafs would provide in this type of build anyway, and the "choppy" rebound can be controlled with a good set of shocks. Even those upper control arms could be lengthened to give you, essentially, a four link suspension.

    I think the longer leaf will make it easier to distribute the spring loads onto the unibody chassis. Without a "real" frame, it would be hard to build a mount that could handle the torque of a quarter eliptic spring.
    There are two things in life where penetration is really important.....and one of them is welding.

  5. #5
    RestoRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flipper_1938 View Post
    I think the longer leaf will make it easier to distribute the spring loads onto the unibody chassis. Without a "real" frame, it would be hard to build a mount that could handle the torque of a quarter eliptic spring.
    I guess it would depend on the frame structure and how it is integrated into the unibody. The Austin Healey Sprite/MG Midget used a quarter elliptic rear suspension albeit with much lower HP than you are using.

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    Flipper_1938's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RestoRod View Post
    I guess it would depend on the frame structure and how it is integrated into the unibody. The Austin Healey Sprite/MG Midget used a quarter elliptic rear suspension albeit with much lower HP than you are using.
    Somebody on metalmeet posted a pic of the sprite style mounts. It is a lot simpler than I thought it would have been.

    There are two things in life where penetration is really important.....and one of them is welding.

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