Thread: My 1930 model a project

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Just found your thread, and I like the look of your ride. I'm building a 31 sedan chopped 4 1/2" and channeled 4". I'm using a 65 409 with six 94s on a 200r4 tranny and 9" rear. I want to raise my rear wheel wells to fit the rear tires and also want to flush fit my doors. I would appreciate any picture of your method for the doors and the rear wells, and any advise you can add. I'm still working on the floor framing and reskinning my doors right now, but the flush fit is the next step.[ATTACH]

Originally Posted by dubya31

Just found your thread, and I like the look of your ride. I'm building a 31 sedan chopped 4 1/2" and channeled 4". I'm using a 65 409 with six 94s on a 200r4 tranny and 9" rear. I want to raise my rear wheel wells to fit the rear tires and also want to flush fit my doors. I would appreciate any picture of your method for the doors and the rear wells, and any advise you can add. I'm still working on the floor framing and reskinning my doors right now, but the flush fit is the next step.[ATTACH]

Sounds like a nice build, lookin forward to seeing some more picks
Its bben along time when I moved the fender wells up I think I did 2". I marked it about 1" above the body line, cut rolled on offsett bead( with eastwood tool, tacked the welded. As far as the doors go, never again
Lots of work, suicide, flushed, radiused, bear claws(small). Cut the hinges off because they were to rusted, welded up openings, cut the back and top of door openings, about 1\8 gap all around, mounted hinges. Pulled off doors. I bent some the offsett lip up on a brake for the door to sit in, but, to many curves didnt work. I used flat sheet, and 1/2 sq. tubeing to make the step for the door sit in. The front of the door was already done, just top and back to do. Too much work Not perfect bad as a hobby builder I dont think its badd. Look at my picks in the other pages. The only reason I flushed I could not get any body lines to match up.I had a ruff beat up body I all lines up now Still got alot of work to do before paint

Wow! Nice work on those doors. It is the little things like that which really make a great rod. Looking forward to more updates.

I know what you mean about body lines. My body was a real turd. No rust, but I think it was used to plow fields. I had to cut the doors diagonally and reshape to get the A pillar and the belt lines to line up. I think I'll tack the doors were I want them and then cut the rear pillar and top to get the right gap to recess them. I was planning to make the recess fron 20 gauge on the brake, but I would like to see what you did with the flat and 1/2" square. It's not going to be easy, but I want the flush fit.

Originally Posted by dubya31

I know what you mean about body lines. My body was a real turd. No rust, but I think it was used to plow fields. I had to cut the doors diagonally and reshape to get the A pillar and the belt lines to line up. I think I'll tack the doors were I want them and then cut the rear pillar and top to get the right gap to recess them. I was planning to make the recess fron 20 gauge on the brake, but I would like to see what you did with the flat and 1/2" square. It's not going to be easy, but I want the flush fit.

I never knew Henerys bodys were so far out of wack The 1/2 tubeing made it easier to curve to match the body. That is also what I used for the rain gutter. Heated, welded to body, grabed the plasma cutter and cut the top of it out. Then lots of grinding to make jambs, frame the opening with flat steel, then useing the tubeing to make the step, the flat steel again over the top, lots of tackeing but works

I was wondering where you got your rad shell?

Originally Posted by dubya31

I was wondering where you got your rad shell?

Ebay a couple of years ago, I chopped it I think 3" or 3/1/2. I will makeing my own grill out of 250 sst rod. I didnt want the standard chopped 4 1/2 sppedway sell's to much chop for mine. I just reglassed it and doing body work on it. I am tired of body work

Havn't seen this thread before, looking very nice, love them seats.

Yea! I like the look of the longer shell, it suits the Pro Street look. Ive managed to get my body back on the frame. I reversed the firewall and the clearance is good. It was probably more work than building a new one, but i like the look. The body is chanelled 4 1/2" and all the floor framing and body mounts are complete. The floor and wheel tubs are next. I'll try and post some pictures soon.

Well pretty excited, all my paint is comming in tommorow, pinstriping paint is ordered, striper lined out Should start start the spraying this weekend Going to start with the cage first, then the inside, tape it all off, then bottom, tape it off then the outside. Been along tome comming 15yrs

Well got the cage painted and flaked Now just to start painting eveything else this weekend.

I like that color, nice werk!!

Well between trying to keep my shop warm was in the high 50's when I was shooting, added some acclerator, wasnt real please have to come back and color sand the dash. It still has to be stripped anyway. Try to go for one more coat of clear to smotth it out, what happens then a run driverside Of course thats whats 1000 grits for Trying the best I can for a back yard kind of dude

hell 50 is a heat wave here in mich i shot paint were i chip the ice off the top of the can to get it out to load in the gun

What ya use an undercoat gun to spray it
I was mad I got a run, I once heard that it wasnt a run, its a flow check in the clear