Thread: 34 3 Window Re-Build

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Thanks guys, it feels good to be back on it. Here are some more pics. One is the new steering shaft(s) and support; I had to remove the header to get a straighter line, now will attempt to make a new header. The shaft before this one had 3 shafts and 4 u-joints to work around the header, it wasn't working well at all. Now that I am happy with the new shaft, the support will come off again for some final fitting and polishing. Other pics are just more interior shots showing equipment moved to the side making room for the 34. As you can see, no matter how big the shop, there is never enough room. Will add more pics as work progresses.


Jack.

P.S. That 2 post lift is a great help on this build. And Shine, I too hope it lasts more than two years.

At least you can still walk in there without sliding past stuff sideways. That would be my 2 car garage problem, and they were generous in calling it 2 car...maybe 2 smart cars or mini coopers!
I'm green with envy of you shop! Love the lift! And ceiling heights

i moved from a 30x40 to a 40x60 and it was like i never moved. what i need is a dumpster and a scrap run .
hope you do better than me jack. mine is a tuxedo lift . saved a grand and threw away 1500 .

The lights are LEDs from Costco on sale for I think $27. I wasn't sure if they would be bright enough at night but they are fine.

I'm with Steve, green with envy for the room and lighting. One question though, how much lift to you have with the car on the Hoist before the car roof is up against the ceiling ? Looks like not enough height space to raise a car right up ?

Originally Posted by Jack F

The lights are LEDs from Costco on sale for I think $27. I wasn't sure if they would be bright enough at night but they are fine.

Were those the LED`s Jack, that is what I bought. 4500 lumens.

Yes Mark, the lights in the pic are the LEDs from Costco. I don't remember the lumens but 4500 sticks in my head.

Rich, I too was a little worried the first time I put the 34 on the lift. It stopped about 2" short of the light just above it. After it reaches the top I drop the lift down to the last set of safety catches, about 1". I can stand upright in some areas under the coupe but have to duck going in or out. I would have preferred another 4-5 inches but I can live with this.

In some of the pics you can spot some of the other ongoing projects taking up coup time; bench with a missing spindle, rototiller, sit down big wheel grinder repair for yard art and still some unpacked boxes taking up space.


Jack

Originally Posted by Jack F

The lights are LEDs from Costco on sale for I think $27. I wasn't sure if they would be bright enough at night but they are fine.

I bought these from Amazon and converted my fixtures, a lot cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just to barge in on the LED conversation before Jack gets it back on track for the car:
If you take Ken's link you'll see it says "two sided connection". There are essentially two types of replacement tubes, either powered from two ends as this reference, or one end. The two end is what you use if just removing the existing tubes because the ballast powers from two ends. It's better to take the ballast out to enjoy the energy savings, which might require some short or replacement lengths of wire to make up for the ballast removal. The other alternative with the single end would necessitate buying the non-shunted tombstone ends referenced lower in the Amazon ad, these have no wires going to them as the single ended ones power at the one end only. Just something to be aware of if you would like to make the switch. Another thing to watch for is some of those big box store complete fixtures don't have replaceable lamps. LEDs are known for long, long life so that might not become an issue, but I've had one lamp in one of the fixtures I put in a year ago lose two of the individual diodes so it lost a small amount of light output. The place I bought it from replaced it, but that might not have happened had some time passed. I prefer replaceable lamps, and hope to get the life expected so I won't have to replace them.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Just to barge in on the LED conversation before Jack gets it back on track for the car:
If you take Ken's link you'll see it says "two sided connection". There are essentially two types of replacement tubes, either powered from two ends as this reference, or one end. The two end is what you use if just removing the existing tubes because the ballast powers from two ends. It's better to take the ballast out to enjoy the energy savings, which might require some short or replacement lengths of wire to make up for the ballast removal. The other alternative with the single end would necessitate buying the non-shunted tombstone ends referenced lower in the Amazon ad, these have no wires going to them as the single ended ones power at the one end only. Just something to be aware of if you would like to make the switch. Another thing to watch for is some of those big box store complete fixtures don't have replaceable lamps. LEDs are known for long, long life so that might not become an issue, but I've had one lamp in one of the fixtures I put in a year ago lose two of the individual diodes so it lost a small amount of light output. The place I bought it from replaced it, but that might not have happened had some time passed. I prefer replaceable lamps, and hope to get the life expected so I won't have to replace them.

The tubes I referenced will not work with the ballasts installed, the old style or the newer solid state style. One end is positive and the other negative and they come on instantly and are much brighter and easier on the eyes than fluorescents.

No worries here on the light conversions. This is good information. I didn't have a choice of converting as I just had screw in bulbs. Of the 12 units I bought I had one unit that lit only one bulb. Costco replaced with no problems.

Am working now on a method to take the body off the frame again to work on the 4 link triangulated locating arms. Will have more pics as things progress.



Jack.

Came in late to this thread. I'm subscribing so I can keep up with it. Looks like a good project.

Good info on the LED lights. I've got several ballasts getting weak in my 8 footers. LED looks like the way to go.

Hi all, back with some more pics. I started to put the fenders and running boards back on to check how things were fitting. The biggest problem was the fit of the pas. rear fender to the running board, The width of the fender falls about 1/4 " to short of the width of the running board. I made a rust repair to that flange with another flange and it appears that I made the patch too short. Being too short also pulled the outer bead of the fender in towards the body and back towards the tire so now that repair needs to be re-done. All this could have been avoided had I just compared to the good drivers side fender. It also looks like the front pas. fender brace may need to be adjusted. with the front fender bolted on, the brace falls short of touching the fender. I think this is the same brace I have had all along and used before so I won't try to fit it to the fender now, I will wait until final assembly. This test fit was just to
spot any major problems. I just previewed the post a saw one pic is upside down, don't know why. The pics of the 34 on the ground is close to the stance I am looking for.
Jack





























I have decided to do away with the GTO coil springs in the rear and go with coil overs.I have removed the upper coil supports which gives me more room in the rear for mounting the fuel filter and electric fuel pump. The next time I have the body off the frame I will take pics of the added room. I haven't re mounted the filter and pump yet but when I do I will put the filter before the pump so as not to have the filter under pressure.

Jack

As you can see in the last pic in the above post the running board covers are too short. I bought these 5+ years ago off Ebay and tried to stretch them to fit, they are rubber after all. I set them in the hot sun for several hours and got them to almost, but not quite, fit. I clamped them to the boards and let them set them aside,for a long time. When we started the move to Idaho, I went to the running boards and I saw that the rubber had split at one end. So much for that Idea. Time to buy another set and from a dealer who will replace them if not right.


Jack.

If you want nice like the factory did don't mess with the glue on stuff (I've used those and with good effort they're "okay"), vulcanized is way gooder though. Check here:
Hunley Acuff
1423 Wilson Rd
Rossville, GA 30741
706-866-4875

or, wait to see if Drake puts his complete boards on sale (typically does that at least once a year).