Thread: Bought an old race car today.

Tweet

That makes sense. The excessive play is what has me concerned. Even when Dan was turning the one wheel to spin the driveshaft so I could get to all four bolts, it seemed to be hanging up some. Could be rust and dirt in the brake drums though as the car sat on flat tires for years. But the excess play is what I don't understand.

I guess when I look inside tomorrow night I'll have a better idea of whats what.

Don

Update: Uh, I will definitely be taking a looksee in there. I just went to Auburn Gears website and these things are expensive! I'd hate to send good money to the scrap yard.

Oh you bet ....... an Auburn is not a CHEAP auto part!!!

X your fingers ..... you might have a score ....... or not.......

Paul

Congrats Don. Lots of good stuff there.

there no way to set a spool loose if more them 3/4 of a turn they welded some of the the spider gears teeth up if a mini spool you would need clip elminators if that loose the spline on the axles were worn out from hard use . but alot of time the center pin that the spinder are held in the carrier get beat out all load will run thru the pin that holds the mini spool in all power run thru it thats why mini spools are not that good

That makes sense Pat. The pinion and ring gear had no slop between them but I could see the spool move quite a bit before it moved the axle.

The old Camaro goes to the scrap yard tomorrow. Don helped me clean out the shop of every old transmission, engine block and a ton of the old manifolds and risers he replaced on his boat. We put so much steel into the Camaro the back end is dragging. That should make it worthwhile for the junk guy to haul it away.

Tonight Dan and I permanently installed the passenger side floor in his RPU, so there is no turning back now. That 3M body panel stuff really sets up. The rivets are going to be incidental. The side we did yesterday was cured today and it really made a strong installation.

Here is a picture of the drivers side all cured and ready for rivets. The passenger side hadn't been installed yet in this picture.

Don

look s nice don . used the 3m stuff at the body shop but i like the windshild self primer urethane a bit better i put door skins on with it and just tack welded the corners and a few and the mild part of skin .i would never what to take one of them old door skins off that i used windshield urethane on... it is alot like 3m 5200 but black nasty stuff and it would flex were the 3 m panle bond would not

Don it looks great! Also thanks for the mention of the 3m body panel adhesive. I need to put a small patch in the windshield channel that is too hard to hold in place underneath while being welded above. Using adhesive a day ahead of time, then tack welding like Pat said may be the easy, and right way to go!

Pat that sounds like a good product to use too. The panel adhesive we used does dry pretty stiff from what we could see, but he has so many crossmembers in the floor there should be very little flex, if any. I'll have to remember the windshield stuff though.

Steve, the only thing about it for a small job is the cost. The gun is about $80 and each tube setup is about $ 50.......it took 3 tubes to do his floor. Pat mentioned 3M 5200 and it is a one part that really caulks and makes stuff adhere. It comes in white or black and once it sets up it is there for life. It is also cheaper, about $ 10 or so a tube and it works in a standard caulking gun. Only drawback is that it takes days to cure versus 4 hours with the two part panel adhesive.

Here is a picture of the adhesive we used and the applicator.

Don

Oh, the Camaro went to great crusher in the sky today. I looked it over to see if anything could be salvaged but it was all so far gone everything was shot. Must have been a northern car because of the rust and also it was a non air conditioned car originally.

Originally Posted by stovens

Don it looks great! Also thanks for the mention of the 3m body panel adhesive. I need to put a small patch in the windshield channel that is too hard to hold in place underneath while being welded above. Using adhesive a day ahead of time, then tack welding like Pat said may be the easy, and right way to go!

well you want to weld every thing in if you can . i have not see any thing bonded that did not leave a shadow line in the paint in the hot sun its hard to get past this with any air cure epoxys and the steel patch will move at a diffrent rate than the glue . the windshield urethane is very strong and it needs to as the windows in car s from back in the 80s and up till now is stuctural and can not fall out in a crash . it works good for bonding as it can take vibration and dampen body panels but would not make a good glue for patching a part that will be filled with body filler and painted you could look at the 14366 metal welder by devcon and is a methacrylate adhesive .or Lord Hi adhesive 406/19 you can get this in small tubes it will go a long way .you will need a gun thats about $30 you will need plunger and mix tips Mcmaster carr has this stuff

Thanks Pat and Don. We used to use 5200 on our boats in the Keys...good stuff. Pat I just need something to hold it up flush against the bottom of the metal channel so I can mig weld the patch from the top and on the side edges underneith. I think it will work long enough to spot weld the patch, after that I'll weld the whole area. It's just one of those tight impossible to get to spots for any magnets to hold it in there. Thanks both of you guys!

Originally Posted by stovens

Thanks Pat and Don. We used to use 5200 on our boats in the Keys...good stuff. Pat I just need something to hold it up flush against the bottom of the metal channel so I can mig weld the patch from the top and on the side edges underneith. I think it will work long enough to spot weld the patch, after that I'll weld the whole area. It's just one of those tight impossible to get to spots for any magnets to hold it in there. Thanks both of you guys!

well used self taping screws any time i did not want to use clamps or did not have the room so you could check body lines drill for a plug weld then drill a 1/8 hole in pinch well or over lap run screw s in to hold it take one out at a time plug weld up screw holes .i hang hole front ends on this way upper rails .inner wells upper and lower cross bars and body tin rockers inners outers back panels 1/4 panles .box side. you name it i have screwed it what,s nice about useing screws is we use a 5/16 plug weld and hit the center of backer with a 1/8 hole and used a self tappers you could back if off and move it front back up and down get it all tune in and burn it on