Thread: Bought an old race car today.

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The body looked pretty good to me when I first saw it but upon closer examination it really is shot. I had to set off 6 insect foggers and a whole can of Raid ant killer to get the big carpenter ants out of it......must have been a million of them in there. Last night standing inside the engine room working I was a little worried there might be more critters still in there, like a SNAKE! I hate snakes.

The three tarps they put over the engine both saved it and hurt it. They kept the rain from getting on it but the humidity was able to get up under there from the dirt underneath. Mostly though it isn't as bad as the pictures show, just that normal corrosion that happens to aluminum.....it will blast off. The internals were my concern and they are very clean and show no rusting. I think the PO fogged the engine because the cylinder walls are shiny yet. He also was smart enough to put what looks like pure antifreeze in the cooling system so it is also rust free. The tranny fluid is full and is a clean purple color (Royal Purple maybe?)

But I am going to have everything hot tanked and remachined, just to be safe. Can't wait until I get the pan off and see what other goodies are lurking in there.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

The tranny fluid is full and is a clean purple color (Royal Purple maybe?)


Don

it could very well be B&M trick shift that stuff is purple and the stall you said was blue thats a B&M has well

Paul, I didn't realize those rear parts were that much money. I'm going to take a real close look now.

Steve, thanks. This was one of those cases of being in the right place at the right time I guess.

Pat, thanks. That is good info. I bet you are right. The transmission is black and has a deep pan on it with a drain plug, so it is somebodies built tranny. I don't think they ever got as far as actually driving the car because it looks like a lot of things are unfinished yet........like no shifter was installed. I have the feeling they put break in time on the engine and that was it. There are a couple of B&M decals on the car so that makes sense. Plus, the fluids are all extremely clean.

Pat, do you have a feeling about the slop in the rear clearances?

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Paul, I didn't realize those rear parts were that much money. I'm going to take a real close look now.

Steve, thanks. This was one of those cases of being in the right place at the right time I guess.

Pat, thanks. That is good info. I bet you are right. The transmission is black and has a deep pan on it with a drain plug, so it is somebodies built tranny. I don't think they ever got as far as actually driving the car because it looks like a lot of things are unfinished yet........like no shifter was installed. I have the feeling they put break in time on the engine and that was it. There are a couple of B&M decals on the car so that makes sense. Plus, the fluids are all extremely clean.

Pat, do you have a feeling about the slop in the rear clearances?

Don

did gloss over that if both wheels turn its a mini spool or the real deal there will be no slop .but should need C lip eliminators it will if it,s a real spool. if you get about 3/4 of a trun then lock hard then someone may have filled the teeth with weld and left some teeth to turn some what some guys did this but its hard on the parts. if the other wheel will make a turn but bangs or hopes a bit but will make a full turn then the limited slip could be dry from setting or set up realy tigth had a 9 like that many years ago 28 years ago still have it under my chevy never rebuilt after some miles the hopping stop.it could be a powertrax carrier ??. pull the cover will tell you more if the rear end is nice shape i hang on to if there not bad and if under some of older cars and turcks . i would take every thing off it and keep it other then the shell if you have room .but you knew that

Thanks Pat for that info. I'll stick a camera up in there tonight after I pull the back cover off and post them. Maybe you can see something in there that will help me make a decision.

I appreciate the input Pat.


Don

Ok, I know a lot more about my new purchase than I did yesterday. I left work early today (was running into overtime) and tore down the engine and removed the transmission.

The transmission is a B&M. I found part of their decal on the top of the transmission case....the B and part of the M. The converter had a part number of 20413 on it and is also B&M. They call it a Holeshot 3000. It goes for about $ 475.00. The flexplate is a TCI with and SFI approved sticker on it.

Got the pan off. It IS a 4 bolt main block. (insert big smile here) The pistons and rods are all stamped with the number of the cylinder they go into and I can see where material was removed from the underside of the pistons on some and also on the connecting rods. So evidently it was balanced.

The pistons are forged but nothing special. The are Sealed Power 2244P .020 over. I researched that number (it is an old number) and it works out to be just about 9:78 to 1 with my 62 cc heads. The connecting rods have no real number on them except for GMA and 687. I couldn't find that number on the internet.

The cam has a number stamped on the back but I couldn't find it anywhere either. It is SE1090P. But it is going into the trash as are the lifters because I found the 3rd lobe from the back is wiped. Every other one is perfect except for that one. Maybe a bad break in proceedure or they set that one too tight? Any thoughts?

The engine also has screw in plugs instead of tap in ones, and the inside is really clean. However, it will go to my machinist for a hot tank and complete check over. The crank spins very freely in the bearings, and the bearings all showed some minor scoring, probably from the cam shavings getting circulated. The journals are all nice on the crank and it is marked 010 and 010, so the rods and mains are 10 under.

The crank is not remarkable either, the part number is 3932442 which comes up as a cast crank, medium journal with a 3.48 stroke. Being that this will become a street motor it will be more than I need.

Finally, the oil pan has no markings but is a deep flat sump model and the oil pump sits way down in it with a square pickup........some brand of racing setup obviously. It also has a heavy duty oil pump driveshaft.

So, that is what I have and overall I am really happy with my purchase. I got a lot of nice, expensive parts and a good basis to get my 46 running. Thanks for looking and for all the advice and tips.

Oh, tomorrow in the daylight I plan on looking inside the rear end. I have the junk man lined up for Monday to come and take it away so I have to get moving.
Don

Way to go Don! Must feel good to see quality stuff inside.