Thread: heavy-duty frame

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planning to build a hot rod. i have a local firm that builds hot rods who going to build the frame for me. my questions are:

1. going to use a studebaker v-8 r-4 engine.it weights 780 pounds,but with alum intake 2x4 and home made headers so knock off about 45 lbs. what front end would work the best?

2. using a 5-speed manual out of a mustang.with a dana 60 rear with 4.56 gears disc breaks all around. what would be the best rear set up.single springs ,double springs,or coils???

3. what bodies are avaible??? would like pick-up or 4-passenger drop top???

4. would a x-member or two crossmembers work best??? i need a very strong frame.it's going to be carring a lot of weight.

i have built many cars but this is going to be my first and last ground up car. so any advice will be helpful



















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Depends on what you build. Most pickups have a fairly stout frame, however they're held together with rivets so best to weld them to get the flex out... I much prefer the IFS front ends, but make sure it's got tubular A-Arms and not the OEM stamped steel junk... Wheelbase and body design have a lot to do with how the rest of the frame is designed, best to have the body you are going to use before starting on a chassis.

What's the material for the frame? Generally something like .125 wall 2"x4" rectangular tubing will be a good 'backbone'. As far as cross members - take a look at what most builders supply for '32 Ford builds either in round or square tube. Then you need a front and rear cross member. Since I don't know what you are going to use it for, don't have a feel for any other cross member needs. Even a 3-400Hp 305cid Stude engine shouldn't twist that.

I would probably use 2 x 6 and then narrow / taper it to front/rear

front and rear cross member depends on suspension choice, center x dependant on trans/exhaust/bell housing area and rear control arms

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

I would probably use 2 x 6 and then narrow / taper it to front/rear

front and rear cross member depends on suspension choice, center x dependant on trans/exhaust/bell housing area and rear control arms

For a frame 2x4 with .125 wall is going to have a lot of flex still, especially with that heavy motor. If you must stay with 2x4, i'd go with something closer to 3/16". or go up to a 2x6x.125" with tapers front and rear, should be 2x6 from front suspension to rear though, may take some good fab work. I tend to over build, just a touch, but its better than breaking. .125 wall actually you will see suspension mounts rip right out of the tubing and everything. Own a fab shop and see MANY street rods that people bought some "trick" chassis from well known, big brand builders that just fall apart under daily driving conditions. My frames are all 3/16" either boxed or tubed, and gusset everything regarding suspension mounts.

Rear suspension i would go 4 link and coil overs and a watts linkage, and front I would do an IFS with coil overs.

Find a body, order an IFS to match that year, then build the frame to match up to that IFS crossmember width and set the rear so you have good body mounting locations and wheel clearance. If you are building it from the ground up you can make it how ever you want in the tail, the front you have to get the right track width and height and all that, rear ends are easy...

X-member will depend on transmission set up. may be easier to do cross members. I did combination of x-member and cross members in my pick up chassis. make it yours, do something unique.

I think in some respects you are putting the cart before the horse. Generally, you find a body you like and engineer the frame and chassis to fit that. You haven't even chosen a style you like yet, from the info you have provided in your post. IMO it would be very hard, if not impossible, to build a car the way you are describing. How do you know wheelbase, track width, where the engine goes, etc?

Don