Thread: One Way To Build A Hot Rod Lincoln

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Roadster what a cool polishing wheel!

Barb - Thanks, it just goes so slow.

Steve - This is brutal what was I thinking that is a nice polishing set up. I haven't got anything yet for the polishing part, I'm looking at a couple of systems. Thanks for the link.

Brent - Thanks I hope so.

I was curious what the frame will look like when it's put together. I have stretched it 10" overall, 6" in the front so the motor will fit and 1 1/2" in the cab so I can flush mount the doors and 2 1/2" in the rear for the bed length to try and make it proportionate.
So I stuck the front on today just to see what it looked like, It looks really long
Ken

The frame looks great, Ken! I've always loved the long front, short back look... Getting the proportion correct is the toughest part of any build. If it's right, it looks like a factory build, if wrong it looks like a hack job.

Thanks Dave, your right though, if you miss on that you have waisted a lot of work. The one thing that can help me is the length of the bed. I have the luxury of making any length I need.
Ken

Lots of polishing ahead! Tina, it's time for that vacation.....

Wow, looks really good, Ken. You are right, they always look so long before stuff gets bolted on, especially the motor, then the start looking ok. A T bucket is a perfect example, before you install the engine and radiator they look like the front end is waaaaaaaaay too long.

How are you finding working with stainless is different from mild steel?

Don

I can feel your pain Ken, Mine seemed a good idea at the time

Steve - She just comes in the back and shakes her head

Don - Thanks, the welding is whats really different. You just have to keep it as cool as possible. I borrowed a friends heli arc that has the pulse wave built into it. So now it is just timing you have to get in sink with the machine, but it keeps from burning all the nickel out of the stainless.

Steve - The problem I'm having is I don't see some of the scratches until I'm down to the 1000 grit paper. By then it's taken so long to get their and you have to start all over with 80 grit and work your way back up. I have 3 weeks in the one rear section and I'm still not done with it. But I'm in no hurry.
Ken

Your doing it by hand your my new hero

I use 10" diameter x 2" wide flap wheels on a handheld polishing gun Ken, Most of my frame was polished in sections for ease but where they are welded i use the flap wheels to take out the weld and repolish, This is the order i use them in depending on depth of scrathes.

120 grit, 180 grit, 320 grit, next i go to a hard sisal mop with a soap with a good cut but no shine, next a normal sisal mop with a soap with 50% cut & 50% shine, then i go finally with a cotton stitch mop with a white soap to bring up a nice shine. Hope this is of some help to ya.

I've recently discovered a cutting soap that a guy makes hisself (secret formula and all that ) but its absolutely brilliant, it has very little shine but cuts very very well and when you hit it with the coton stitched and white soap you get a superb gloss.

If it helps i have various freinds visiting SoCal quite often and could get one of them to bring you a bar.

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Steve - She just comes in the back and shakes her head

Don - Thanks, the welding is whats really different. You just have to keep it as cool as possible. I borrowed a friends heli arc that has the pulse wave built into it. So now it is just timing you have to get in sink with the machine, but it keeps from burning all the nickel out of the stainless.

Steve - The problem I'm having is I don't see some of the scratches until I'm down to the 1000 grit paper. By then it's taken so long to get their and you have to start all over with 80 grit and work your way back up. I have 3 weeks in the one rear section and I'm still not done with it. But I'm in no hurry.
Ken

Ken here's a short clip of my hand held polisher, Its a pretty impressive tool !!!

Its not really meant to take a 10" diameter mop but when needs must and all that

Steve - Thanks, any bit of information is a help, I really appreciate it. If you have someone coming anywhere close to where I am I will meet them or they can come by, with the cutting soap. I haven't got a polisher yet, I'm still in the scratch removing and weld removing phase. Yours looks great, what is the rating on it?

Ken they all call in at Reids Rod Shop so i can get it left there and will let you know, no problem.
You really need to get some of these big flap wheels as they make scratch/mark removale so much easier than rubbing by hand, heres a pic what they look like, i'm sure you must be able to get them in the US, They start off 9" diameter with a taper bore to fit a pigtail.

I'm not sure of the rating on it but you have to hang on to it as its very torquey.



I use this company for supplies, not much use to you but they are very helpful with tips & tricks and they make all the stuff thereselves, He has also sent me a lot of free samples to try out, a real good guy.

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Steve - Thanks, any bit of information is a help, I really appreciate it. If you have someone coming anywhere close to where I am I will meet them or they can come by, with the cutting soap. I haven't got a polisher yet, I'm still in the scratch removing and weld removing phase. Yours looks great, what is the rating on it?

Any updates Ken ???

Steve,
Thanks for all your helpful information.
I work on it almost every day during the week. It's just so slow I don't post anything because in a photo it doesn't show much progress. Here is what it looks like to date.
I wait on polishing it until I get all the cross members and K members in, for fear of scratching it.
Ken

wow looks like the welds are almost done! That is alot of progress since we saw it over the holiday!