Thread: soda blasting

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thanks lamin i think that i am going to have to go with the old stripper and lots of elbow grease.

Originally Posted by jyardgirl

thanks lamin i think that i am going to have to go with the old stripper and lots of elbow grease.

Barb - WHY O WHY are you taking all of the old paint off? Is it cracked, peeling or just plain rusty. Then maybe, just maybe you might consider mechanical removal (use a D-A sander). This may more work then necessary. A good surface prep. i.e. 180/220wet, shoot some good 2K over the existing paint, epoxy the bare spots then sand (lots) with 320 - 600, then sand some more, then paint. Why make more work then necessary(unless you want bulging biceps).

There are downfalls with stripper as well - if you don't get it all off or some 'hides out' in a seam - instant paint failure. And at the price of automotive paints,

paint is really bad in some areas. it has fish eyes and ridges. just trying to plan my winter work after i get all the mechanical work done. saw a video that was using soda blasting and thought i would ask you guys about it.

Originally Posted by IC2

Barb - WHY O WHY are you taking all of the old paint off? - :

a good point i had`nt thought of .. old good paint is old good surface protection

Barb - fish eyes and ridges only need to be sanded smooth, some good 2K primer sprayed on, sanded out with 320 - 600 until you are happy then paint. If the paint surface is still in decent shape without cracks, rust or peeling, you should be OK with just a real good surface prep. Is this the same car you painted a while back? If so, you might have to get somewhat aggressive with your surface prep, but probably not to bare metal. And that creates its' own set of problems as you have to prime each panel as you finish to make sure there isn't any rust forming and that can happen in minutes to days. Fish eyes are tough - you need to clean off what originally caused them - oil, finger prints, silicone polish, WD40, etc, then prime.

Now, have I mentioned primer and sanding yet

Don't know if my method is technically correct, but I use my trusty DA with 80 grit, scuffing up the surface where the paint is still ok, and going to bare metal anywhere that the old paint is questionable. I'm old, so I do a panel or two at a time, then prime with epoxy primer. Once I get the entire car done and rust repair patches, mods, or whatever else then I get serious on the dingin' and pingin', do whatever filler work is required, then touch up the epoxy primer whereever I sanded through doing repairs. Next I DA the car again, this time with 180 and lay on the 2k hi build and get serious on the blocking. 2k is easy to shoot, just use a 2.0 or 2.3 tip and reapply as required while blocking to get the surface right. My final block is with 400 dry, then once more around the car with 2K and start the wet sanding down to 400, then primer sealer tinted to the correct shade for the paint.

thanks dave, hoss, and dave. that is what i will do.

Originally Posted by jyardgirl

thanks dave, hoss, and dave. that is what i will do.

Hey Barb!!!! You could come help do the body on my '57!!!!! Great OJT for your Monte project and I wouldn't even charge you (much) to help!!!!

you know dave if i was closer i really would love too. if you come and help me with mine afterwards.

Well, if you can't make it for the OJT, could you still send the money?????

I once had a body dipped, Never again !!!

what happened roadster?

It kept leeching out of the seams even though it was cleaned several times Barb

Originally Posted by jyardgirl

what happened roadster?