Thread: Wiring Harness Disconnect

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Has anyone had any experience with fabricating or using some form or wiring harness disconnect at the firewall, etc., that would eliminate removing the wireing when lifting the body off? I have a 1930 Chevrolet hot rod that I have to wire, but want to make accomodationd for painting the body later.

Connector choice is influenced by your application.

Military style connectors and CPC type connectors are available in panel mount styles for mounting on the firewall or other flat surfaces. However, they look like crap unless they are on an aircraft or industrial machine.....OR if you can hide the connector low or to the side...they might be good.

Delco makes a Weatherpak connector like this
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B0017NR110
that looks more automotive. You can buy Weatherpak components and Metripak components from DelCity.com
The link that I attached above is for a 20/18 ga wire and 22 pins....not enough current capacity for much if you have a higher amperage circuit....do a search on GOOGLE for
"bulkhead connector" plus the word "automotive" and you should get quite a few hits.

You should start by making a list of all of the wires that you want to disconnect and the wire size or current......that way, you can determine if you need one or more bulkhead connectors and the wiring size for each circuit. Make sure you add some spare circuits...you will use them eventually.

Hope this helps.

mike in tucson

Thanks so muck Mike, it is a great start.

They use these on Mustangs...

The Mustang bulkhead connector picture brings up a good point...make
sure the connector is sealed well. Otherwise, the contacts will corrode and
you will be chasing electrical gremlins forever. Also, make sure the
cable end is secured somehow....the Mustang connector is retained by the rubber
jacket being a tight fit around the mating jacket.

If the connector you find does not have a retaining method, make a sheet metal
finger that holds the connector in place and secure the finger with a screw into
the firewall.

mike in tucson

Originally Posted by robot

make sure the connector is sealed well. Otherwise, the contacts will corrode and you will be chasing electrical gremlins forever.

mike in tucson

I use dielectric grease on every electrical connection including the base or socket on light bulbs, also use it on spark plug wire ends. This helps to seal moisture out which cuts down the corrosion problem.

Mike (in Florida )

Originally Posted by Mike52

I use dielectric grease on every electrical connection including the base or socket on light bulbs, also use it on spark plug wire ends. This helps to seal moisture out which cuts down the corrosion problem.

Mike (in Florida )

So do I, but then about 25yrs ago I found a bottle of it at the Boneyard that was about the size of a quart oil bottle. The bottle is still over half full & like yourself Mike I use it on everything including nuts & bolts since it also can be used as an anti-seize....joe

Originally Posted by Mike52

I use dielectric grease on every electrical connection including the base or socket on light bulbs, also use it on spark plug wire ends. This helps to seal moisture out which cuts down the corrosion problem.

Mike (in Florida )

X 2, Good stuff

Did you try American Autowire? I recall that they have a couple different bulhead connectors and they just supply the bits and pieces form so you can make a proper harness.
I do a good amout of wiring and i never run anything thru the firewall, i drop down and come up under; the headlight/turn signal i split back at the firewall so that each run forward thru the right and left frame rails and stub out at the lights and this avoids that nasty cross-over under the radiator.

Good point...