Thread: Knock on wood, 27 seems ok.

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Hey Pops, I recall seeing the sleeving Dan is using, but I don't think he said where he got it. Got a link or lead to the supplier?

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Yep, Keith Black.


Don

there has been for some time two alloy in forged pistons the 2618 this some like better for hi out put blowers alot of NoS they can take more piston to wall . then theres 4032 alloy were you can run the piston closer to the wall as this is low growth alum were they do not move as much as the 2618 .so if the bores are big with 4032 there going to make noise .i fit the pistons for the alloy and the use. some pistons have skrits ground for better performance as to how much cam is ground in the piston not much is given about some noise till warm in some case there all out race pistons .speedpro/trw . wisco .ross .je. diamond. kb all use diffrent pro files on there skirts. cast pistons you can run very close to the wall so there not going to make any noise. hypers are a high silicon low growth as well not likeing alot of piston to wall or they can bang .so to say a storker will just make more noise is abit of a catch all .more like if forged pistons and abit loose it going to make noise. or the wrong piston to wall for use. some guys will max piston to wall size thinking there going to get beat on hard if sound was a eschew then hypers or fitting the pistons for the use would of help .i machine /build stroker i have not had anyone say any thing about piston noise then you get under say a CH of a 1.200 the piston may rock abit more have used many at 1.250 and 1.125 CH i do not know were you CH is i did not follow the build

Bob, he says it comes in various sizes and colors. The one he bought expands from something like 1/8 inch to 7/16 and is heat resistant. I think he bought it in 50 or 100 foot rolls and it was reasonable.

He gave me the link to the source he used, here it is:

http://www.electriduct.com/Non-Fray-...html&catid=156

Hope this helps.

Don

That's good info, Pat. I had about 3 thousandths clearance, which was what Keith Black told me they like. It really isn't objectionable now, I think most of the noise I was having before was from little or no oil going to the passenger side rockers.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Bob, he says it comes in various sizes and colors. The one he bought expands from something like 1/8 inch to 7/16 and is heat resistant. I think he bought it in 50 or 100 foot rolls and it was reasonable.

He gave me the link to the source he used, here it is:

http://www.electriduct.com/Non-Fray-...html&catid=156

Hope this helps.

Don

i use that stuff Don, its pretty neat looking, I reckon he should of laced it with cloth wire, would of looked cool !!!

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

That's good info, Pat. I had about 3 thousandths clearance, which was what Keith Black told me they like. It really isn't objectionable now, I think most of the noise I was having before was from little or no oil going to the passenger side rockers.

Don

if you have a 302 to 347 the ch can be 1.100 thats short for a street driver if thats what you have. you may get more sound with that short piston as to how the skirts and cam built in the piston for a driver to give you some kind of a ideal a 496to565 bbc can use a 1.270 ch there not bad on sound less i have the pistons to wall set for kill. my point it down the road blast off short runs 632 uses a 1.125 ch. the 735. ch is 1.070 so you start getting were the wrist pin is past center on the controll ring and ring pack set up gets very short .as the under side of the pistons can get in the way of the wrist pin part of the rod i like to work this all out on paper before a have pistons made
. alot of pistons use thinner rings so you can get a good ring pack so 1.100 is something 20years ago was left to the big boys

Good to hear you got it going Enjoy the Florida weather finaly starting to get warm here 33 degrees today

even longer ago than 20 years---why I remember----

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

even longer ago than 20 years---why I remember----

yep was waiting for the big boy to replay yep jerry may been longer i did hear of guys just building two ring pistons ?i never did any of this back then it was a good day if i had new set of speed pros or good used TRWs then i had diamond tapper turn to the second ring land that was the hot trick back then. but i think its been almost that long when i had JE build me my first set of custom pistons for the 572 .well time flys

one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
Tango probably does that since he works on diesels

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

one trick i did was sort of like the diesel pin where the top of rod is tapered so the pin boss in the piston overlaps the lower side of the rod pin area and used a short pin--even cut the pin ends at about 20* angle and used interferance(pressed) fit---
Tango probably does that since he works on diesels

no but i turned the pin down abit on the lathe on press pins to get some weight out on the piston then i did not feel like cutting the hell out of the piston to get a weight match on a new replacement piston when the maker plays with the design of the replacement to match up a used set with one or two new pistons. i also played with pins with thinner or heaver wall pins

See, the difference is, guys like you, Pat, and Jerry, know this stuff and the right way to do it. Me, I take the kit out of the box, check the ring gap, and in it goes. It is a little noisy yet, but like you mention, I'm running a strong cam (X303 Ford Racing) and the short pistons, so I guess it is just going to be that way.

I got it out and put more miles on it today, everything seems fine, and I got to check the temp against the cap thermometer and the infared gun. They both read 170 and my temp gauge reads 220! I already changed gauges and senders, same reading. I have the sender right at the thermostat housing, so that might fit into what Jerry was talking about earlier.

I can also put my hand on both hoses and they are hot, but not too hot to hold, so my inclination is to believe the car is actually running at the 170-180 level.

Don

Don can you move the temp sending unit farther back on the intake? Is it the right Ohms for the gauge( I know you already know this, but maybe they packaged them wrong?)

Steve, I am going to move it to the other spot on the intake to see what it does there. Yeah, it is a matched set of Teleflex gauge and sender, and so far I have tried two separate gauges and two separate senders, same reading.

I'm convinced at this point that the car is not running at the temp the gauge is showing, and drove it more today in traffic and the gauge went to 220, but the one on the cap still shows 170ish. I may use that direct reading gauge I have and intall it temporarily to just get one more reading.

Don

Don don't you just love the way things are all calibrated the same