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02-20-2012 07:36 PM #1
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02-20-2012 07:32 PM #2
Just cut out the old tailpan and make all the edges on the car straight, then make a template out of posterboard, transfer it to some 20ga, and cut it out. Form the radius' over a suitably sized round tube (I've used everything from a welding tank to the light pole in the alley), then butt weld it into place and you'll end up with a seamless back end on the car. For strength, you would also want to bend the bottom 90 degrees to the inside, or leave the bottom edge long and wrap it around a piece of 1/4" round tubing.... Could even get creative and french in a license plate mount, or cutouts for you tailpipes...... Stock is boring anyway!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-20-2012 08:21 PM #3
Thanks, Dave S, I get it now. I also assume you mean to leave the lip for the trunk seal in place and cut below it? I can figure out ways to create the radius. I need to melt the lead out of each side and see what's under there.
I've seen one with the frenched license plate but I have a different idea for the plate. Here's an example. I don't like the 39 tail lights installed like this, but the license plate looks good. I'm going to be using the bumpers anyway. In LA, I'm afraid not to have bumpers!
37wseamsealed2_1.jpg
Thanks for the help guys! It'll be a few days before I can get back to it but I have lots to think about & explore in the meantime."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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02-20-2012 09:39 PM #4
284289_238680596172523_117320474975203_753004_4816489_n.jpg249274_238680689505847_117320474975203_753005_7372185_n.jpgWow I missed a lot sleeping for a few days . Randy best job is what was said separating the two panels . When Smokies Custom Auto Service installed my rear inner and outer he hurt my time more then saving it . I have to do it all over .
Fit the panel to what is there , they are not always stamped at the perfect location so adjustment may be needed .
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02-20-2012 10:13 PM #5
Bobby, are these pics of your redo or Smokie's installation?
As for splitting panel, here are pics of what the other guy did...
rashfordtrunkpan1.JPG
trunkpan1.JPG"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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02-21-2012 07:07 PM #6
My original rear section
37 coupe body getting floored ..jpg
A redone 37 rear section
ford-00208-2.jpg
And here he didnt install the inner pan in far enough , allowing the outer tail to come into place .
100_2200.jpg
They are Smokies he butchered it up . Tried to raise one 1/4 panel up to match . This caused a open duck tail look and removed the original clean radius from the top to the bottom .
Randy that car looks like a great way to close it up , nothing wrong with it . With this work at the tail you can fit and finish the sides along the deck lid also .Last edited by bluestang67; 02-21-2012 at 07:16 PM.
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03-06-2012 10:58 PM #7
Ok, fellas, here's a little update on the deck lid situation....I could definitely use a little advice here. I'll post up some pics to show you what I'm up against...
I cut out a little section of rust from the inner framework and fabbed a little patch for it. It still needs to be finished up but it's a start. There are several more areas like this so I may resort to a different method since the inner frame will be covered with an upholstered panel anyway....
IMAG0063_1.jpg
Then I used to heat gun to remove all the bondo on the outer skin so I could see what I'm really dealing with.
IMAG0064_1.jpg
The bondo was pretty thin until I got up toward the top of the lid. You can see the multitude of dents that were hiding under it.
IMAG0065_1.jpg
Both lower corners are pitted badly and have holes in them plus there are several holes across the bottom 4" of the outer skin. Ideally, the bottom 4" should be replaced with new metal but with my limited equipment, I have no idea how I could make that big a patch panel. I discovered a sheet metal shop in my neighborhood that I may ask about making a new panel using the old one for a pattern. Heck, maybe I should see if they could remake the whole outer skin and I'll attach it to the old framework. That would probably get pricey.....but I won't know till I ask, right?
IMAG0071_1.jpg
The lighting isn't very good on this pic of the whole lid but the dark stripes from the top edge are dents or scrapes from yesteryear that were skim coated. The lower half of the lid is pretty straight but pitted pretty badly on the lower 4" like I said above...
IMAG0074_1.jpg
So, I'm open to suggestions......"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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03-07-2012 07:42 AM #8
Just do what you're doing Randy, replace/repair one section at a time. Short of making a new outer skin, about the only way to do it!!! With all the compound curves it would take an English wheel and a lot of experience to make a whole new skin for it.... Going to take a lot of time and patience, but it can be done...Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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03-07-2012 08:26 AM #9
Sorry to say I can offer you no guidance Randy. I'm just not a body guy! But I will say that the small repair you've started looks great and like Dave says, just keep at it! One section at a time.
Do the "easiest" first and that helps you practice for the bigger job(s) coming. You're doing good!~
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03-07-2012 08:52 AM #10
Cut 'n' trim 'n' paste in small areas is about all I can offer as well.
I would possibly invest in a shrinker-stretcher if I had too many convoluted bends:
2-in-1 Metal Shrinker / Stretcher
Eastwood 51088 Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher Combo Set
Dang - here I go, helping Randy spend his money --- again 8-}Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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03-07-2012 03:55 PM #11
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03-07-2012 06:56 PM #12
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03-07-2012 07:26 PM #13
And that's exactly what I tell my wife! But.. But.. Honey... I, I "NEEDED" that (insert tool name/type here) tool desperately! And then take her out to her favorite restaurant or ???? (insert other diversions here)...
Works every time! Did I mention I found another old tractor to go with the other 2 that are in line for a restore?My other sickness! ROFL !
I have to create a lot of diversions! HAH!
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03-07-2012 07:43 PM #14
.....hmmmm, tractor, hmmmmm. I might have another for you if we ever find a smaller home. 1985-6 vintage ISEKI/Bolens 3 cyl diesel with about 700 hours -------- nah, runs too well, all it needs is a seat recovered with something besides duct tape and a good touch up so it wont need restoration.
My non car diversion is the 34 foot 5th wheel RV. I can spend too much on that. And I do need some impact sockets to -----nah ---- well, maybeDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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03-08-2012 06:43 PM #15
Ok, I got to spend a little bit of time in the garage today and it was a little more encouraging.
I started by clamping a piece of copper under the lid and welding up a few rust holes.
IMAG0080_1.jpg
Then started making a cardboard pattern to replace that rusty corner on the lower right side.
IMAG0081_1.jpg
Flipped the lid over and did some more fitting...
IMAG0084_1.jpg
After it started to look ok, I took the plunge and whacked off the corner and clamped the new piece in place.
IMAG0086_1.jpg
I still have some more welding and grinding to finish up but my neighbor was tired of hearing the grinder
IMAG0088_1.jpg"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
The first model car I built was a 32 Ford roadster by Revell in the mid 50's.
How did you get hooked on cars?