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Thread: '38 Ford deck lid vs 37 Ford deck lid
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    Dave S - think what Randy is looking at is not only a compound curve, but curves in multiple directions. Without a decent template, even an old rusty one, gonna be tough. I've stood in back of a lots of '37s as it has always been my favorite '30s Ford and have seen some that in my mind are 'wrong' - and it just might have been that tail pan. I'd probably make up either a straight trunk floor or weld up something close as that tool box is outa sight, outa mind and just do the tail piece. I'll see if I have photos tomorrow when I get back to the desk top 'puter with my stash of photos and maybe I can find a good rear view for a comparative look.
    Yeah, I looked at the pics Randy put up. Anyway, it's still just sheetmetal and can be formed to the correct shape......
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just cut out the old tailpan and make all the edges on the car straight, then make a template out of posterboard, transfer it to some 20ga, and cut it out. Form the radius' over a suitably sized round tube (I've used everything from a welding tank to the light pole in the alley), then butt weld it into place and you'll end up with a seamless back end on the car. For strength, you would also want to bend the bottom 90 degrees to the inside, or leave the bottom edge long and wrap it around a piece of 1/4" round tubing.... Could even get creative and french in a license plate mount, or cutouts for you tailpipes...... Stock is boring anyway!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    randyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    Just cut out the old tailpan and make all the edges on the car straight, then make a template out of posterboard, transfer it to some 20ga, and cut it out. Form the radius' over a suitably sized round tube (I've used everything from a welding tank to the light pole in the alley), then butt weld it into place and you'll end up with a seamless back end on the car. For strength, you would also want to bend the bottom 90 degrees to the inside, or leave the bottom edge long and wrap it around a piece of 1/4" round tubing.... Could even get creative and french in a license plate mount, or cutouts for you tailpipes...... Stock is boring anyway!!!!!
    Thanks, Dave S, I get it now. I also assume you mean to leave the lip for the trunk seal in place and cut below it? I can figure out ways to create the radius. I need to melt the lead out of each side and see what's under there.

    I've seen one with the frenched license plate but I have a different idea for the plate. Here's an example. I don't like the 39 tail lights installed like this, but the license plate looks good. I'm going to be using the bumpers anyway. In LA, I'm afraid not to have bumpers!
    37wseamsealed2_1.jpg


    Thanks for the help guys! It'll be a few days before I can get back to it but I have lots to think about & explore in the meantime.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  4. #4
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    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    284289_238680596172523_117320474975203_753004_4816489_n.jpg249274_238680689505847_117320474975203_753005_7372185_n.jpgWow I missed a lot sleeping for a few days . Randy best job is what was said separating the two panels . When Smokies Custom Auto Service installed my rear inner and outer he hurt my time more then saving it . I have to do it all over .

    Fit the panel to what is there , they are not always stamped at the perfect location so adjustment may be needed .

  5. #5
    randyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestang67 View Post
    Attachment 53277Attachment 53278Wow I missed a lot sleeping for a few days . Randy best job is what was said separating the two panels . When Smokies Custom Auto Service installed my rear inner and outer he hurt my time more then saving it . I have to do it all over .

    Fit the panel to what is there , they are not always stamped at the perfect location so adjustment may be needed .
    Bobby, are these pics of your redo or Smokie's installation?
    As for splitting panel, here are pics of what the other guy did...
    rashfordtrunkpan1.JPG

    trunkpan1.JPG
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  6. #6
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    My original rear section
    37 coupe body getting floored ..jpg

    A redone 37 rear section
    ford-00208-2.jpg

    And here he didnt install the inner pan in far enough , allowing the outer tail to come into place .
    100_2200.jpg

    They are Smokies he butchered it up . Tried to raise one 1/4 panel up to match . This caused a open duck tail look and removed the original clean radius from the top to the bottom .

    Randy that car looks like a great way to close it up , nothing wrong with it . With this work at the tail you can fit and finish the sides along the deck lid also .
    Last edited by bluestang67; 02-21-2012 at 07:16 PM.

  7. #7
    randyr's Avatar
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    Ok, fellas, here's a little update on the deck lid situation....I could definitely use a little advice here. I'll post up some pics to show you what I'm up against...

    I cut out a little section of rust from the inner framework and fabbed a little patch for it. It still needs to be finished up but it's a start. There are several more areas like this so I may resort to a different method since the inner frame will be covered with an upholstered panel anyway....
    IMAG0063_1.jpg



    Then I used to heat gun to remove all the bondo on the outer skin so I could see what I'm really dealing with.
    IMAG0064_1.jpg

    The bondo was pretty thin until I got up toward the top of the lid. You can see the multitude of dents that were hiding under it.
    IMAG0065_1.jpg


    Both lower corners are pitted badly and have holes in them plus there are several holes across the bottom 4" of the outer skin. Ideally, the bottom 4" should be replaced with new metal but with my limited equipment, I have no idea how I could make that big a patch panel. I discovered a sheet metal shop in my neighborhood that I may ask about making a new panel using the old one for a pattern. Heck, maybe I should see if they could remake the whole outer skin and I'll attach it to the old framework. That would probably get pricey.....but I won't know till I ask, right?
    IMAG0071_1.jpg


    The lighting isn't very good on this pic of the whole lid but the dark stripes from the top edge are dents or scrapes from yesteryear that were skim coated. The lower half of the lid is pretty straight but pitted pretty badly on the lower 4" like I said above...
    IMAG0074_1.jpg



    So, I'm open to suggestions......
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  8. #8
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just do what you're doing Randy, replace/repair one section at a time. Short of making a new outer skin, about the only way to do it!!! With all the compound curves it would take an English wheel and a lot of experience to make a whole new skin for it.... Going to take a lot of time and patience, but it can be done...
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  9. #9
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    Sorry to say I can offer you no guidance Randy. I'm just not a body guy! But I will say that the small repair you've started looks great and like Dave says, just keep at it! One section at a time.
    Do the "easiest" first and that helps you practice for the bigger job(s) coming. You're doing good!~

  10. #10
    IC2
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    Cut 'n' trim 'n' paste in small areas is about all I can offer as well.

    I would possibly invest in a shrinker-stretcher if I had too many convoluted bends:

    2-in-1 Metal Shrinker / Stretcher

    Eastwood 51088 Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher Combo Set

    Dang - here I go, helping Randy spend his money --- again 8-}
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  11. #11
    34_40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    Dang - here I go, helping Randy spend his money --- again 8-}
    'cause you're just so dang good at it! Seems that whenever you're around, I end up with tools / parts and a lighter wallet too! HMmmmm

  12. #12
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    'cause you're just so dang good at it! Seems that whenever you're around, I end up with tools / parts and a lighter wallet too! HMmmmm

    But you NEED those tools - and my wallet always needs some help too
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  13. #13
    34_40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    But you NEED those tools - and my wallet always needs some help too
    And that's exactly what I tell my wife! But.. But.. Honey... I, I "NEEDED" that (insert tool name/type here) tool desperately! And then take her out to her favorite restaurant or ???? (insert other diversions here)...

    Works every time! Did I mention I found another old tractor to go with the other 2 that are in line for a restore? My other sickness! ROFL ! I have to create a lot of diversions! HAH!

  14. #14
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    And that's exactly what I tell my wife! But.. But.. Honey... I, I "NEEDED" that (insert tool name/type here) tool desperately! And then take her out to her favorite restaurant or ???? (insert other diversions here)...

    Works every time! Did I mention I found another old tractor to go with the other 2 that are in line for a restore? My other sickness! ROFL ! I have to create a lot of diversions! HAH!
    .....hmmmm, tractor, hmmmmm. I might have another for you if we ever find a smaller home. 1985-6 vintage ISEKI/Bolens 3 cyl diesel with about 700 hours -------- nah, runs too well, all it needs is a seat recovered with something besides duct tape and a good touch up so it wont need restoration.

    My non car diversion is the 34 foot 5th wheel RV. I can spend too much on that. And I do need some impact sockets to -----nah ---- well, maybe
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  15. #15
    randyr's Avatar
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    Ok, I got to spend a little bit of time in the garage today and it was a little more encouraging.

    I started by clamping a piece of copper under the lid and welding up a few rust holes.
    IMAG0080_1.jpg

    Then started making a cardboard pattern to replace that rusty corner on the lower right side.
    IMAG0081_1.jpg

    Flipped the lid over and did some more fitting...
    IMAG0084_1.jpg

    After it started to look ok, I took the plunge and whacked off the corner and clamped the new piece in place.
    IMAG0086_1.jpg


    I still have some more welding and grinding to finish up but my neighbor was tired of hearing the grinder
    IMAG0088_1.jpg
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

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