1940 Ford Tudor Build Thread

[40FordDeluxe]

Oops!! My bad! Maybe I need to review your thread. For some reason I was thinking you had scored a late-model Hemi engine/trans to put in your '40.
Nevermind.......carry on with what you're doing.....

No biggie. Nah, if I were to go with an electronic engine, I'd have to go with a LS or similar engine. They are the new SBC's and you can make big power with a mild turbo and stock bottom end.

[40FordDeluxe]

Today I said to heck with it and dug out the Hemi. I started removing the pieces I don't need, and started cleaning gunk and grime off the engine. I also put my BBC water pump on to see how it was, or if it was going to fit. Yep, it fits! I have no gaskets in there now, so it's tight against the timing cover. Worst case, I'll have to clearance the 2 lower bolt heads on the pump cover. I'm waiting for my parts from Hot Heads, but until then I'll keep cleaning this thing. I have to get a balancer and find my lower pulley so I can determine what I need to do for an upper pulley. This weekend I'm going to start putting the engine in the car. But first, I have to do my fire wall.





I'm going to cut the old water pump to get the upper cross over off. Then I'll braze a plate on it. Later on down the road I'd like the aluminum one Hot Heads sells, but for now this will have to work. I'm going to try selling the stock pieces I removed from the engine to help fund more parts. I also forgot I had this new air cleaner. I might run it for now until I get it running, then buy one of the vintage units.

[40FordDeluxe]

Today I pushed the car out of it's storage spot, and washed it. It badly needed it. I need to go on a bird killing spree........................ Now it's in the shop and I'm going to get started on it in the morning. My new distributor showed up today. The big brake kit is MIA though.....

[Hot Rod Nick]

Thanks for the update. I see the air filter for that tall oval element we talked about in the other thread.

Seeing your motor reminds me "how come I don't have a hemi?" I grew up thinking I'd put a hemi in everything and that still sounds like a great idea.

[randyr]

From the looks of those front tires, I'd say you've been 4-wheelin' in that thing!!

Are you planning to lift the body off for your x-member modifications?

[40FordDeluxe]

Thanks for the update. I see the air filter for that tall oval element we talked about in the other thread.

Seeing your motor reminds me "how come I don't have a hemi?" I grew up thinking I'd put a hemi in everything and that still sounds like a great idea.

Yep, I found it the other day and I'll use it for now. That filter you found should work great too. I agree with you. I've always wanted a Hemi from the first time my friend and Dad found 30 in a local abandoned junk yard. Too bad the state crushed every last thing in there!

[40FordDeluxe]

From the looks of those front tires, I'd say you've been 4-wheelin' in that thing!!

Are you planning to lift the body off for your x-member modifications?

Yep, pretty much! I had to push and drag it through some muddy holes to get it from one barn to the drive way, and back to our shop. This springter has allowed the ground to be very soft, and all the gravel has sunk and made a mud mess. dang the luck.....

Yes, I do plan on taking the body off the frame. First I'd like to get the engine placed where I want it, then see what all needs redone to get the trans in there. I know that will be the worst part. With the body off I'll be able to brace the frame to minimize movement when I cut the X member up. Well, I'm sure mine has already moved and sagged. So, hopefully I can get some of that back.

I also found a decent set up for a gas door I'm going to try. I never knew 41-48 fords had gas doors.... So I'm getting one from a local rodder and will add this to the car some time.

[40FordDeluxe]

Today I removed all the stock suspension parts and began the install of the tubular control arms. I did not have any luck sourcing a drill bit the size of the outer diameter of the spacer. So, I found a hole saw that was the same size. I cleaned the inside of the cross member, ground it, and tacked a 1/4" piece of scrap in there. Drilled a hole in the center, and then used the hole saw to cut the hole in my cross member to get the spacer in it. Once that was done, I had to enlarge the front bolt hole to 5/8". Then I slid the spacer in, and put the lower control arm on. I have to trim the spacer to allow the inner washers to be used. Right now it's too tight to get the control arm on and the washers. I'm guessing who ever designed these wants you to drill both holes to the outer dia of the spacer. But I'm using the front as a locating device. I have to check my caster and camber before I weld it up. I have a lot of clean up to do to this cross member. Hopefully I can get some stuff done over the weekend. But as usual, it's getting busy. I have to go to my Grandmother's birthday party tomorrow afternoon, and church and Easter/more b-day celebrations Sunday. I doubt I get much done.......

[Dave Severson]

Position of the lower arm looks good so far, Ryan. That crossmember looks weak, going to take some good reinforcement and gusseting to make it work right! Just keep that upper arm centered in it's range of travel on the slots! Did you put an angle finder or caster/camber gauge (preferred) on the spindle to get the 5 to 7 degrees cranked into it?

I would also suggest some gussets from the crossmember to the frame as well as from the lower shaft tube to the crossmember. With the proper structuring and some good welds, it should do fine, Ryan....

[40FordDeluxe]

Position of the lower arm looks good so far, Ryan. That crossmember looks weak, going to take some good reinforcement and gusseting to make it work right! Just keep that upper arm centered in it's range of travel on the slots! Did you put an angle finder or caster/camber gauge (preferred) on the spindle to get the 5 to 7 degrees cranked into it?

I would also suggest some gussets from the crossmember to the frame as well as from the lower shaft tube to the crossmember. With the proper structuring and some good welds, it should do fine, Ryan....

Yes I did Dave. Now the other issue that was brought to my attention. Look at the top pic in post 143...... The front part of the frame is above the rear part of the cross member by a good bit. Hopefully the LH rail is the same, or maybe that is a bad pic. I'm heading over there now to look at it. I think I know why it's hacked, I mean done like that...... Instead of notching the lower portion of the frame so the rack would fit, they raised the front of the frame to make clearance. Oh, this just gets better and better..... I do plan on adding gussets every where I can. I think I'm going to make the gussets and tack them in place, then get the engine sat in position so I can try to make sure everything can fit. Then remove the engine and weld everything with the engine out.

On the bright side, I ordered a 2 1/2" exhaust kit from summit, and a new Tank Inc 16 gal gas tank. My brake kit and front brake lines are on the way too. I got my first installment from Hot Heads as well. They back ordered my carb adapter for 2 weeks. It should work out ok. I have plenty of work to do until then.

[Dave Severson]

Yes I did Dave. Now the other issue that was brought to my attention. Look at the top pic in post 143...... The front part of the frame is above the rear part of the cross member by a good bit. Hopefully the LH rail is the same, or maybe that is a bad pic. I'm heading over there now to look at it. I think I know why it's hacked, I mean done like that...... Instead of notching the lower portion of the frame so the rack would fit, they raised the front of the frame to make clearance.

Yup, the front part of the frame is way too high, puts the spring tower up too high and the anti-dive angle for the upper A-Arm is way off!!!! Going to have to do something there, too. Missed seeing that when I looked at your pics.

Hopefully this pic comes through, it's the correct set up for anti-dive angle on the upper arm. The angle of the upper arm should be about 7-10 degrees with the front of the arm higher. As long as this angle is not less then your caster angle, it works out ok.

[randyr]

Yikes, Ryan, that's kinda wacky!! Sure you don't wanna consider one of these??
35 40 Ford Chassis Rat Rod Rat Rods Ford Other New Frame Custom | eBay

[40FordDeluxe]

Yup, the front part of the frame is way too high, puts the spring tower up too high and the anti-dive angle for the upper A-Arm is way off!!!! Going to have to do something there, too. Missed seeing that when I looked at your pics.

I missed it too. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about it. I honestly am thinkng of just strengthening it and running it. Because either I: A cut the cross member out and buy a new one and try to scab the old front frame horns back on, or B start with a different/new frame. Well, this thing drove surprisingly well for all the bad crap it had going on. I think I might be able to live with the anti-dive being screwed up. The biggest complaint I had before was the bump steer. So as long as it doesn't drive worse than it did, I will probably leave it. It isn't pretty or ideal, but I think it would be a major project to correct that without at least a frame jig.................

[40FordDeluxe]

Yikes, Ryan, that's kinda wacky!! Sure you don't wanna consider one of these??
35 40 Ford Chassis Rat Rod Rat Rods Ford Other New Frame Custom | eBay

Randy, that is the exact frame I want to buy. This fall/winter...... There's no budget for it now.......

[40FordDeluxe]

Yup, the front part of the frame is way too high, puts the spring tower up too high and the anti-dive angle for the upper A-Arm is way off!!!! Going to have to do something there, too. Missed seeing that when I looked at your pics.

Hopefully this pic comes through, it's the correct set up for anti-dive angle on the upper arm. The angle of the upper arm should be about 7-10 degrees with the front of the arm higher. As long as this angle is not less then your caster angle, it works out ok.

Thanks Dave! That helps a lot! I think I have an idea how to bring the angle down too. I can cut the upper part and cut a pie shape out of it. Bring it down to a correct angle, and weld it all up. The only way this thing has survived is the boxing plates they put on the inside are one piece. This thing may not be ideal but it'll have to work for now. I can't imagine how bad it really is if we compared stock frame measurements to what it is now. Poor dang car.

I did check the LH rail and it's the same way. So when they installed the MII, they just cut the frame off and then stuck the cross member and scabbed from there. How this car survived all this is beyond me. I bet that front end has 100,000 miles or more on it like that. I put 8000 miles on it, and my uncle drove the car daily when I was a lad.