1940 Ford Tudor Build Thread

[40FordDeluxe]

I got one of the fenders sprayed black as well as the air cleaner top and I was marking the firewall to notch it so when I get finned aluminum valve covers they will fit. Nothing like creating more work for your self.

[40FordDeluxe]

First pic is of the cool Arias aluminum finned valve covers.

More fender paint pics. Not perfect but there aren't any runs and they aren't white.

[40FordDeluxe]

I removed the front clip to remove the engine and begin the finishing of the firewall. I also added gussets to my engine mount stands to help keep them rigid. once those were in I sliced the firewall and stitched it back together. I also added a 1" lip to my firewall opening and put nut serts in it for my trans tunnel I made.

[40FordDeluxe]

I don't have pics of it, but I made a lower steering column mount and welded it to my steering column. I also cut off the shift tab and welded the tube solid. It is converted to floor shift now. I also installed nut serts into the firewall so the steering column bolts on to the firewall. I bought a really nice billet swivel mount but my fire wall bends right where the steering column goes through. I could have cut it out and added a round tube with a flat plate to mount it in but I decided not to do all of that.

I also began welding in the rest of the spot welds across the top of the cowl and I had to make some pieces to tie in the bottom of the cowl to the new firewall because it wasn't tall enough to meet the bottom of the over hang of the cowl. I put some sealer with acid etch in it on it because it was so humid I got tired of seeing the flash rust form.

[40FordDeluxe]

I began body working it because I wanted it to be pretty straight and I knew there would be some body work to be done around the embossed panel I got from late member Richard.

I also decided to remove the front and rear glass to get a nicer paint job. Plus my RH rear window gasket was ripped at some point and they just smeared black rtv on it to cover it up. It was a good 3"x.5" chunk missing and I figured the silicone would cause a reaction and I was tired of looking at that bad gasket.

I also welded in my Welder series anti roll bar. I will have to modify the arms to clear my tie rods when the suspension is dropped but it is close to final draft. The front shock mounts were done top and bottom as well in these pics.

[40FordDeluxe]

Now I was cleaning the front of the frame to prep it for paint. Grinding and finishing welds I did in 2012. Could it have really been that long ago? I also fixed a dent in the roof and then began my Rocky hinge bear claw latch install.

[40FordDeluxe]

Top picture is a pic of the linkage I made to connect the factory release lever. I also incorporated the factory outer handles. I thought about shaving the handles but I just didn't want to add another week to the project.

The next job was to fix the horrible fitment of the driver's door. It took tweaking the entire shell with some 2x4's and cutting the door frame in a couple of spots and welding it with pressure applied to hold the form of the quarter panel. It was a pain but it is way better than it was. It still isn't perfect but I don't feel like cutting the hinges off of the a pillar to start over.

[40FordDeluxe]

Here is the repair of the LH crack below the wing window. The next pics are pf the RH bear claw mod after some filler and primer. I also primered the firewall and we had it outside one afternoon to do grinding on the door outside plus Clint cleaned and vacuumed the inside out trying to get ready for paint.

[40FordDeluxe]

Now it is getting grease and wax removed, removed all the front suspension to paint the front of the frame, and finally get ready for paint.

[Dave Severson]

It's getting close, Ryan! Remember, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!!!

[Mike P]

Looking real good Ryan! You’re looking OK on time getting this this done too (said the guy who too 15 years to get his 37 on the road LoL). Do I remember correctly, that you traded the 354 for a 392?

Is the trans a 518/46RH? I know we talked about different controllers for these (Compushift Mini and PATC) a while back. I used the Mini in the 37 Dodge. It does OK, but at the price and not all that impressed with it. I picked up a PATC kit for the 46RH (with the adjustable switches) that will go on the HEMI I just built but until I get a car to stuff it in, I really can’t make any comments on how it will work.

Nice work on the valve cover notches and I like the that style of cover…….actually better than the finned ones I have. I hate to mention this, but did you check to see if the aluminum covers can actually be removed in car? The rocker shafts are pretty tall and the valve covers have to come up pretty far to clear them. It’s even worse if you use studs rather than bolts to hold the valve covers on. Whether you use studs or bolts don’t forget to put sealer on the threads as they screw into the water jackets.

That HEMI sure does fill the engine compartment nicely!!!!



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[40FordDeluxe]

Looking real good Ryan! You’re looking OK on time getting this this done too (said the guy who too 15 years to get his 37 on the road LoL). Do I remember correctly, that you traded the 354 for a 392?

Is the trans a 518/46RH? I know we talked about different controllers for these (Compushift Mini and PATC) a while back. I used the Mini in the 37 Dodge. It does OK, but at the price and not all that impressed with it. I picked up a PATC kit for the 46RH (with the adjustable switches) that will go on the HEMI I just built but until I get a car to stuff it in, I really can’t make any comments on how it will work.

Nice work on the valve cover notches and I like the that style of cover…….actually better than the finned ones I have. I hate to mention this, but did you check to see if the aluminum covers can actually be removed in car? The rocker shafts are pretty tall and the valve covers have to come up pretty far to clear them. It’s even worse if you use studs rather than bolts to hold the valve covers on. Whether you use studs or bolts don’t forget to put sealer on the threads as they screw into the water jackets.

That HEMI sure does fill the engine compartment nicely!!!!



.

Hi Mike, yes sir, I traded the 354 for a lower mile 392. The trans is a 46rh. I recently heard compushift no longer makes a mini so that is out I guess? I have one for my wife's truck that I had in my 0range 72 and it didn't work great either. Like you I wasn't impressed. The 40 will get toggle switches. I've used the PATC setup before but for this toggles will be fine. Maybe I'll get that far in 2023.

No, I didn't check to see if the aluminum valve covers will come off with the engine in the car. I could have an issue. Yeah, that sounds about right.

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[Mike P]

".....The 40 will get toggle switches......"


Several years ago I designed a circuit to control the lockup convertor on a TH250. The way it was designed was after the toggle switch was turned on the lock-up was activated with a momentary push-button switch. It would automatically disengage when the brake pedal was pushed (great when the wife(and me LoL) was driving it so she didn't have to remember to disengage the lockup when driving in traffic or coming to a stop sign.

If you want I can see if I still have the diagram and post it.


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[40FordDeluxe]

Now some fun begins. Or is it fun?

I purposely used red oxide primer that way if I botch the paint job I can sand it down and do a patina job on it.

[40FordDeluxe]

Well there you have it. It's black. In typical Ryan fashion I couldn't leave well enough alone. I had wanted a metallic finish but also wanted a budget paint. I saw some stuff on the interwebs and wanted to try it. It turned out nice. You'll have to let me know what you think.