1940 Ford Tudor Build Thread

[40FordDeluxe]

Next was coating my headers. I was all ready to buy a cerakote kit to coat the headers with but funds are tight. I may have got myself into another car deal so I have to balance things out for it all to work out. Rather than wait until I get the extra cash for a cerakote kit I reverted back to tried and true vht 1300-2k* paint. After some issues with copper header gaskets, I got the headers installed. I also have been working through some issues to get the taller aluminum finned valve covers installed. I may have spent 1/4 of a pay check on stainless fasteners too. Nothing is cheap and if it is it's junk. Plus I'm tired of fighting all the original bolts that were never touched on this car when it was "restored". I'll rant on that more later when I show my inner fender and front fender work.

Once the engine was all painted I had to clean up the NOS dual quad intake but I didn't want it to look too new. It was purchased in the 70s and then left in the box. I want the engine install to look like it could have been put in in the 70s. I cleaned and scuffed the intake with red scotchbrite and aluminum polish. I then cleaned the intake in the parts washer, then washed it, and clear coated it. I also re polished the hot heads valley pan and cleared it too. I'm trying to make the stuff last a long while on this one.

The 40 is back on the stands ready to get a heart transplant!

[Mike P]

Looks great Ryan!! Like the gold color.

A trick I do to help the header paint last is to cure the paint after it drys.

Basically I just take a propane torch and use it to heat the the painted parts. You can actually see the paint turn shiny black and then back to a flat color as the solvents burn off once you see that the paint is cured.

The parts can a can actually have set for quit a while (months) with the paint on them and it will still work.



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[Dave Severson]

Lookin' good Ryan! Do you have the AFB's to match the intake?

[40FordDeluxe]

Lookin' good Ryan! Do you have the AFB's to match the intake?

Thanks Dave! No, I do not. But, I have 2 390cfm 4160 Holleys and adapter spacers to move them away from each other so they will fit.

[rspears]

Man, your 3rd & 4th pictures really show how wide that beast is!! I was curious, and the 5.0 Coyote is 28" compared to your 331/392 Hemi at 29" - maybe a tad more with the tall valve covers!! BEAST!

[40FordDeluxe]

Man, your 3rd & 4th pictures really show how wide that beast is!! I was curious, and the 5.0 Coyote is 28" compared to your 331/392 Hemi at 29" - maybe a tad more with the tall valve covers!! BEAST!

Yes sir! They are really wide. Hopefully my firewall notches allow my aluminum valve covers to clear. Cross your fingers........

[34_40]

I don’t see the Cummins anywhere… and son #1 and I was hoping the motor color would stay stinky pinky ����

[Hotrod46]

Looks good! The gold looks very 50's/60's. Gonna look even better in the car.

[40FordDeluxe]

I don’t see the Cummins anywhere… and son #1 and I was hoping the motor color would stay stinky pinky ����

That will be another project down the road some day on both. Izzy, my oldest daughter wants this car so bad. She's not getting it but I am searching for an affordable 40 to start with to build her one. Hers probably will be pink everything.

[40FordDeluxe]

Last week I got the engine sat on the stands but I was so disgusted and mad I didn't post about it. I scratched the firewall a few times and that irritated me but what got me the most was the aluminum valve covers won't go on. The chrome stamped steel ones will go on and come off as is though. The aluminum ones I think will fit in there but I am going to have to take the engine mounts off, lower the engine, and then put the aluminum valve covers on. That is my plan any how.

First I need to prime my engine. But before I can do that I need to address the oil filter that is blue tooth I forgot about.

I decided to purchase a different oil filter adapter that will put the oil filter on the side facing straight out. I have room for that and I won't have to deal with lines for the remote filter setup.

In other amazing news I had an epiphany and realized I had no place for a PCV. The stock valley pan had a road draft tube and I have 2 grommets and PCV's I purchased from Hot heads to eliminate the road draft tube. Well, I didn't think far enough ahead and there is no baffle when using an aluminum flat plate and there is no hole in the plate. So back off came the valley cover and I will drill and tap it for 1/2"npt. I'll get some hose and an in hose PCV and plumb it in between the valley cover and carb. I'll also have to drill my oil fill cap, I already cleared, to add a breather. Big fun.

Once I got the engine sat on the stands I decided I had better get the trans bolted to the engine. I have never had the flex plate bolted on the engine because I had to tap my crank to be able to bolt on the flex plate. Luckily I tapped the bolt holes straight and the hub adapter and flex plate went on. The torque converter even went into the hub and I have a couple of bolts started into the torque converter. I have never had a starter bolted on this set up yet either. Yeehaw.... That's another day's problem.

My next issue was my TRWaters adapter I chose to use. This adapter has a dowel on each side for the trans but only used 4 mounting bolts to hold the trans to the engine. These 4 bolts do go through the adapter into the block. The adapter it's self has 1 bolt on each side coming from the front of the block going through and holding the adapter to the block and there is also a dowel on each side aligning and holding the adapter to the block. Most Chrysler transmissions have 8 bell housing bolts and this only having 4 was weirding me out. Luckily there is a bolt hole on the trans that landed just at the bottom area of the adapter. On the RH side I drilled and tapped the hole 3/8-16 and threaded a grade 8 bolt in it. The LH side is a different story. There is a mounting boss on the side of the bell housing I need to cut off to access the bolt hole. Usually the bolt comes from the front on these holes and I'm sure that is why these were not used on this adapter plate. I knew I had to cut that mounting boss off, I just forgot. It should be fun now with the trans in the car.

The last pic is of Izzy last year. She just turned 12 last Saturday. 4 more years until she can drive. Where has the time went?

[40FordDeluxe]

I'm adding this link so I can find it later. This is a trick Robert uses to secure wiring and I really like the idea. I'm going to give it a try. They use earth magnets and bond zip tie retainers to them and use these to secure wiring harnesses without having to drill or weld to the sheet metal.

www.appliedmagnets.com

We use either the CUP-26, which is a 49 lb pull, or CUP-20, which is 26 lb pull. Much better pricing over McMaster on magnets.

[40FordDeluxe]

I got the oil filter adapter ordered. Hopefully it will be here by the weekend so some progress can be made. I'm having issues finding an in hose PCV so I might have to order that online. Craziness.

I was searching for where I had hid a model I got in November and I found a loose pic in a photo album I have. It's of the 40 after it was painted in the early 70s. I only know it has to be it because of the camper. That camper was my Uncle's and he pulled it with the 40. Now if I could find a full car pic of it.

[rspears]

Looks like another old Hemi lurking in the background by the gun safe......?

[40FordDeluxe]

Looks like another old Hemi lurking in the background by the gun safe......?

No, I wish there was. I used the original valve covers and made wall hangers out of them. I gave the bronze one to a friend for Christmas and I kept the bare one for myself. I am thinking of painting it gold but haven't messed with it yet.

[40FordDeluxe]

I've always wanted side exit exhaust on a vehicle. This car originally had side pipes but some person ruined that when he slammed it. I followed Mike P's lead and decided a fender notch was a good option. I didn't want a billet ring on the outside like a lot of stuff has these days. I also fixed the cracks in the bottom of the fender and started the body work blend.

I had a pleasant surprise when I decided to separate the inner fender and rear brace from the outer fender. They never separated them when they "restored" the car. The bolts were rusted frozen. I got them to turn with Kroil and some heat but I had to cut 90% of them after they moved a few threads. This also means the original welting is still there. It appears to be in good shape. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to replace it or just run it. It didn't tear or rip. I'm thinking of re using it but haven't fully decided yet.

Once I realized my cool valve covers were a big issue and I had a huge decision to make, I side tracked to a smaller problem.

Upon my smarter decisions I decided to replace the stock valley pan with a Hot heads cast aluminum one. I already had a pcv from Hot heads but I didn't give it a thought there is no provision for a road draft tube on the aluminum plate. I started doing some research and it seems I will have to add a hole to the rear of the valley cover to attach a pcv to, as well as modify the oil fill and add a vent. Perfect. Back the valley cover came. I drilled and tapped it to accept a 1/2" NPT pipe fitting. I finally sourced an in hose PCV and I will put it in between the rear carb and the brass fitting. I was told not to put the valve on the intake because it could just suck oil out since there is no baffle now. Fair enough.