1940 Ford Tudor Build Thread

[Hotrod46]

Ryan, a suggestion on the lower hose issue. Fab a solid pipe with regular off-the-shelf mandrel bent sections. You can make much tighter bends and do things you could never do with hose. It doesn't have to go all the way to the radiator, just far enough to get you into a better area for the hose. I have used this for a couple of projects. I like silicone hose sections where it connects to the pump or rad just because they last virtually the life of the car.

I even once made a manifold out of square tubing that had to run under a crossmember. I capped the ends and added round hose fittings in the sides. Sounds pretty crazy, I know, but it was tons better than the Three Stooges hose setup that was on the car before.

Sorry if this has been suggested by someone else. I'm a little behind on this thread.

[40FordDeluxe]

Ryan, a suggestion on the lower hose issue. Fab a solid pipe with regular off-the-shelf mandrel bent sections. You can make much tighter bends and do things you could never do with hose. It doesn't have to go all the way to the radiator, just far enough to get you into a better area for the hose. I have used this for a couple of projects. I like silicone hose sections where it connects to the pump or rad just because they last virtually the life of the car.

Mike, thanks for the idea. I've made a lot of lower coolant pipes the way you have mentioned and this could be an option. I probably should put my inner fenders on and just see where the radiator sets again.

[falconvan]

Great job! Man, that hemi sure is a thing of beauty.

[Mike P]

I really like the low mount solutions for the Alternator and especially the PS pump you’re coming up with. From a serviceability standpoint I like the high mounts I’m using but for a clean installation yours beats that hands down.

If you run into issues with you’re PS pump alignment something I found out with the Saginaw pumps is that the pumps with the press on pulleys set the pulley a little differently (can’t remember whether it’s closer or farther) than the units that use a the nut and lock washer. Additionally the spacing on the press on double belt pulleys is different than either.

I think I may have mentioned it in a post a long time ago, if you’re using the 4 grove mopar pulley the front 2 groves are just slightly smaller than the rear 2 groves. That usually is not a problem unless you are planning on using a 2 grove water pump pulley. If you are using belts on the 2nd and 3rd groves on the crank pulley they can’t run on a common 2 grove pulley (such as a 2 grove water pump pulley) as the belts will be running at different speeds…….makes a hell of a squeal plus belt life is only about 2 miles. Don’t ask how I know.

Anyway great work.


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[40FordDeluxe]

Thanks Mike. Right now, I will be using the original 3 groove pulley. Hopefully it doesn't have the same issues you speak of.

[53 Chevy5]

It's looking real good, pulleys suck! It's one of the not fun parts for me.

[40FordDeluxe]

It's looking real good, pulleys suck! It's one of the not fun parts for me.

Yes for sure. Finding belts has been a pain the last few years. All the good parts guys retired so there's only a few decent ones left and most won't let you go back and shop for your self anymore.

[40FordDeluxe]

Here it is May already. With that being said, I won't be making Vintage Torque Fest. I knew it though since a guy at work is off on FMLA now so that meant I couldn't take time off any way. The main reason I didn't achieve another goal was I am dumb and took on that 2007 F-250 6uh oh project. Thankfully that huge pain in the a** is done and in Oklahoma now. Good riddance!

I got the oil filter adapter installed and began working on the air cleaner base again. Cut hear and there, then straighten some. It's getting closer.

[40FordDeluxe]

We took the little kids to a new recently opened BBQ place and you can draw on the walls. They were surprised I could draw anything other than stick figures.

I'm working on getting the fuel system going. I ordered a by pass regulator for it and it won't be here until next week. I got my pick up tube cut, and modified the pick up module and added a return line to it. I had to go to the hardware store and get some 10-32 machine screws to mount the pick tube module.

Next thing was to get the fuel sending unit height set and float arm length set and cut. I got it all done, put a vent hose and return line on it as well as a short feed line and installed the tank. I forgot how fun the tanks can be to get put back in these.

[40FordDeluxe]

I've been dreading priming the oiling system on this for a while after hearing how bad it can be. Those people weren't lying. It was a PITA to get the RH bank to prime. But I got it and then got my distributor drive shaft and distributor installed. Then I finally got the torque converter bolts put in, and last but not least, installed the starter. I made a bracket to mount my coil and got it installed. I wanted to hide it best I could so I can try and hide as much of the wiring as I can. I'm sure it will be real fun to replace later on.....

I've been ordering things I didn't have and they're trickling in. I got a heat exchanger for the transmission, stuff to get the throttle hooked up, a throttle pressure cable for the trans, longer spark plug tubes for the aluminum valve covers, thermostat blanks, and a bypass fuel pressure regulator. Hopefully I can get time tomorrow to work on it. I'm currently working 6 days a week so that will cut into my car time most likely.

[rspears]

Curious, Ryan, does your radiator have a transmission cooler? It also serves to keep the fluid at operating temp in the winter, but can be defeated by a stand alone "cooler" depending on how it's piped. Remembering the "cooler" that HenryRifle put on his '33 that had a temperature controlled fan, plus isolating valves, I believe?

[40FordDeluxe]

Curious, Ryan, does your radiator have a transmission cooler? It also serves to keep the fluid at operating temp in the winter, but can be defeated by a stand alone "cooler" depending on how it's piped. Remembering the "cooler" that HenryRifle put on his '33 that had a temperature controlled fan, plus isolating valves, I believe?

Roger, my radiator doesn't have a trans cooler/heat exchanger in it. My orange truck has no radiator heat exchanger with the same style trans and I've never had an issue. I don't plan to drive the 40 in the winter much at all and I don't think I'll put a hitch back on it either. I've never used one of these heat exchangers and figured this would be a good place for one.

[Dave Severson]

Looking good Ryan! That dang work stuff sure does interfere with a guys hot roddin' time, doesn't it? Progress is progress, keep us updated!

[rspears]

Roger, my radiator doesn't have a trans cooler/heat exchanger in it. My orange truck has no radiator heat exchanger with the same style trans and I've never had an issue. I don't plan to drive the 40 in the winter much at all and I don't think I'll put a hitch back on it either. I've never used one of these heat exchangers and figured this would be a good place for one.

Your experience with the truck says the '40 will be fine, especially considering limited to no winter driving. I went back and looked, and found Jack's (Henry Rifle) post following up on his install of the Hi-Zoot B&M tranny cooler, made for all weather extremes - Texas HOT

On a side note, Jack's picture of his "bug attracting yellow" coupe was my computer screen saver for months at the office, before I took the plunge and ordered my roller package for my black coupe. I miss his posts, but he sold the car and hasn't been around for a long time..... Christmas 2019.

[40FordDeluxe]

Your experience with the truck says the '40 will be fine, especially considering limited to no winter driving. I went back and looked, and found Jack's (Henry Rifle) post following up on his install of the Hi-Zoot B&M tranny cooler, made for all weather extremes - Texas HOT

On a side note, Jack's picture of his "bug attracting yellow" coupe was my computer screen saver for months at the office, before I took the plunge and ordered my roller package for my black coupe. I miss his posts, but he sold the car and hasn't been around for a long time..... Christmas 2019.

I guess I had forgot he sold that hot rod. I really liked that car. I've had a lot of friends use these heat transfer coolers so I figured I'd give it a try. On the no heat exchanger on trans cooler systems, I was advised by a few diesel performance trans building shops to remove the heat exchangers on the trucks that were extremely high horse power, or would be towing a lot especially heavy and at distance. Their thoughts were this. They want the trans fluid to be 160* optimally. If you have a heat exchanger type cooler in the system, the trans fluid will always be as hot as the coolant temp is. Most times that's 195* or higher on these new emissions trucks. They would recommend to tell the cold weather truck owners to not expect the over drive and lock up to come on as soon in cold weather. BD Diesel did have a kit that had a bypass valve to bypass coolers on dodges but they were expensive and prone to fail so they discontinued them.