Thread: Need help figuring out what to do for latches

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I am figuring on installing bear claw latches, but since I have no door lock on the driver's side anyway and to avoid key scratches if I did I am thinking about installing a remote system which would mean power bear claw latches. I am also looking at the Carolina Custom kit that should allow me to retain the stock door handles.

My question is what is my back up to the remote failing? I don't want any kind of hidden door popper. Will I still be able to use the passenger door lock as a back up with the bear claw latches? That key cylinder has been torn apart so long I don't know how it worked to know if it can be adapted to the bear claw latch. Also any reccomendations for remote systems that will install easily with bear claw latches? An alarm would probably be a plus as well. Thanks!

The 'traditional' place for latches is the door, but there is no reason not to put them in the jam.

The powered bear claws are really expensive plus seem to take up a bit more space, especially if you have to contend with window channels. Why not just use the conventional bear claws, add some linkage and a solenoid from someone like Speedway or Rocky hinge. That way you have a multitude of directions you can go with bell cranks and links. My '31 has the mini, single rotor bear claws. There is even a solenoid in place too if I run out of other things to do with my life.

As far as an emergency release, there are several companies that sell a flex cable. These in turn are run from a fender well then through the door post to the door latch through a loom protector

A suggestion If you are going to run remotes get interior door locks (like dead bolts) I have had remotes open while driving...Mine did it on a suscide door at about 25 mph Big Mess. I ran a cable from the latch to under the fender.

Originally Posted by cffisher

A suggestion If you are going to run remotes get interior door locks (like dead bolts) I have had remotes open while driving...Mine did it on a suscide door at about 25 mph Big Mess. I ran a cable from the latch to under the fender.

Oh yeah - forgot about them:



Above, showing the bear claw(Rocky Hinge), the dead bolt(Juliano's) and the unused solenoid (Speedway) plus body reinforcing (Dave W).
You can also see the links and connectors. These roadster doors are only about 1-1/2 inches thick at the widest point. Yes, the upholsterer did call me names

Always fun

thanks guys. It looks like the power bear claws are $110 for the pair or $130 for the pair with a safety lock and about $80 for the regular latches plus $50 for each solenoid from Speedway. So based on those prices getting the power latches (assuming there is space of course) sounds like the way to go. I'm not even sure if I could figure out how to use the solenoid correctly...how exactly would I go about making them open my doors? So on the emergency back up my best bet would be to use a cable "hidden" coming through the fender and hope no one sees it?

The solenoid opens the latch, could add a pair of poppers to open the door enough to get it away from the latch if you need them. Release cable can be routed to inside the fender, or a longer one to route to the grille shell area.

How do I operate the solenoid though? I would think I would have to be able to program it to a remote? I guess a remote system would have aux functions, but how is the solenoid programmed?

Your "kit" is going to come with a remote & a receiver that outputs to the solenoid. Call Rocky Hinge and talk to Brad. He'll walk you through it, and you might end up buying his kit.

Just remembered - I have a spare receiver and a couple remotes in a box that have never been used. If you are interested, PM me and I'll dig it out and we can figure out what it can do for you.

Roger - do you mean the remote kit would come with the receiver to the solenoid? Based on Dave W's response that makes sense. I suppose I need to start researching the remote kits and go from there. Anyone have a remote kit brand they can reccommend??

Thanks Dave...I'm going to do some more research to find out what I need. Do you happen to remember the brand you have? Would the one receiver output to both solenoids for each door?

Rocky Hinge Keyless Entry has a complete kit, as well as other kits for various actuation methods (cable, hidden PB, remote, etc). If you call and can get Brad on the phone he can talk you through the whole process and discuss options. RH is a relatively small, family owned business that operates without a bunch of marketing & overhead - just good folks who make a lot of their own stuff, or pull together quality pieces/parts to build kits. I've bought several items from them, but not remotes.

Thanks a lot Roger! That definately looks like a great place to start. Some of those kits seem like a good deal considering the cost of the bear claw latches plus two solenoids. I just need to figure out what all I need. The car will not have shaved handles or power windows, but will have a shaved trunk handle so we'll probably need a system with some aux functions. They don't seem to offer a kit with an alarm system so I'll need to figure out how critical that is..

Thanks again

About every catalog lists "remote entry" kits, and there's a bunch to choose from - just a few besides RH are Dakota Digital, StreetWorks & RodTronics. Dakota Digital even has a 10 channel system - you can remote doors & windows individually, trunk release, trunk power up/down - sky's the limit, just more wire and SV's ($$$$). Happy hunting!!

What I have as 'surplus' is an Autoloc KL550 which is a 5 channel unit. Here it is at Summit and at the price I paid : AutoLoc KL550 - AutoLoc 5-Function Keyless Entry Systems - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Summit also has an installation instruction posted as well

A reasonable offer WILL NOT be turned down

Solenoids - they are also available from Autoloc. You probably don't need the monster 35 pound pulls that a newer car would use; High Performance Parts & Accessories - Car Shop Inc.

Im not discrediting anyone, just adding my thoughts. I like the heavy duty Auto Loc solenoids. They are higher than standard solenoids but for a reason. Little effort is needed for the bear claw latches so a stage or two up will last much longer. I put their 100 lb pull solenoids on Dustin's Camino but I was using the factory latches and had to over come that big internal spring. I look at solenoid size like a duty cycle.

As far as the emergency release, on my 36 Im going to run the latches on the cab and the striker on the door. Then I can use a hood release cable routed back slightly and through floor just behind door. I did the alternative on Dustin's car and ran the hood release through the door, pillar, and out firewall inside the front fender. I personally won't do that again. The door already has enough stuff in it.
Just remember to leave enough slack on the cable loop so there isn't any tension on the latch. I also found the nice steel cabinet rollers to be handy if you need to move the solenoid in a different position other than straight on. Then you can employ even less effort with the pully system. The rollers have a 1/4" hole and are about 2 inches in diameter and have roller bearings. Then you can add a pair of large washers on each side to keep the cable from falling off. Dustin's work great. Doubt he'll ever need to use the emergency pull unless he has a dead battery. Also I would use the aluminum crimp sleeves versus the universal cable u clamp cause no matter how tight I got them they always seem to work themselves loose over time.

Oh....for safety I also used the factory inside door pulls and cabled them to the latch. If you bust a battery in a wreck, you still want to be able to get out. You'd be surprised how many folks use an electric switch to exit the vehicle. I'd hate to hear someone burn up in a car cause they couldn't get out.

If your keeping your original handles inside and out why do you need solonoids? I'd just install the latches and get some miscellaneous factory rods from a salvage hard , bend them as needed and hook them up to the bear claws and both handles.

David