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Thread: '51 Chevy taillight wiring
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    pepi's Avatar
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    Here see if this will help you out,

    1953-chevrolet-wiring-diagram.pdf

    When you open this PDF it will be hard to read , look at the top of your display see the words Adobe Reader. Look for the word VIEW select that and rotate the image, you can also change the magnification

    This link has a cleaner wiring diagram
    1951 Chevrolet- Wiring Diagrams

    To get the PDF from here look for the following on the page: To view and print a FREE large 1951 Chevy Wiring Diagram in PDF format CLICK HERE!
    the file was to big to upload to this post..


    NTFDAY is correct about three wires for the left side only don't forget about the right turn, so four is the grand total of wires to the rear.
    Last edited by pepi; 07-10-2012 at 06:58 PM.
    I have two brains, one is lost and the other is out looking for it

  2. #17
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    Turn signals are working both sides tho? That's where I'm scratching my head. I replaced the turn/ stop wires to the front of the car, not that they wouldn't carry current but just cause it was a good idea.. Everything makes sense that they should be working, but stop light on that side is inop.. The only thing I can figure is if the turn switch has a broken connection and won't put voltage to the left thru the stop circuits internally, OR the system was not designed for 2 brake lights.. I downloaded the GM heritidge info for the car and it mentions 1 stop light. I know prior to 1952 1 stop light was considered legal, but I really thought this car had 2 brake lights. I remember at least 1 light working when I first got the car, so IDK.

    This is the wiring diagram for the turn switch/ lights
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepi View Post
    Here see if this will help you out,


    When you open this PDF it will be hard to read , look at the top of your display see the words Adobe Reader. Look for the word VIEW select that and rotate the image, you can also change the magnification


    NTFDAY is correct about three wires for the left side only don't forget about the right turn, so four is the grand total of wires to the rear.
    There is LH stop/ turn, RH Stop/ Turn and a tail light wire that runs back, it splits 3 ways in the trunk to power both tails, and the license light. The 4th wire is for the reverse lights, but there a diffrent circuit.

    I don't see a PDF?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepi View Post
    NTFDAY is correct about three wires for the left side only don't forget about the right turn, so four is the grand total of wires to the rear.

    Not counting grounds, there ONLY needs to be three wires for tail lights.
    1 Left stop/turn
    2 Right stop/turn
    3 Tail lights and license plate light
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NTFDAY View Post
    Not counting grounds, there ONLY needs to be three wires for tail lights.
    1 Left stop/turn
    2 Right stop/turn
    3 Tail lights and license plate light
    That is correct, goofed
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    There is LH stop/ turn, RH Stop/ Turn and a tail light wire that runs back, it splits 3 ways in the trunk to power both tails, and the license light. The 4th wire is for the reverse lights, but there a diffrent circuit.

    I don't see a PDF?
    It is there now I realize you had a 51 so I went looking for that, found it but the file was to large, so I noted the link and how the get the PDF

    shout if you have any trouble getting it
    I have two brains, one is lost and the other is out looking for it

  7. #22
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    Matt167, here's a very generic explanation of what should be happening. When the brake switch engages (circuit closes) the power goes into the turn signal switch and get directed to the front and rear lamps. When you pull down on the lever, the left side is run through the flasher and the right (rear) brake power continues on un-interupted. When you push up on the lever, the left(rear) power is un-interuppted and the right side is run through the flasher.

    This is why I said to test at the signal device, you should have 1 power coming in (from the brake switch) and the turn signal device breaks it into 3 (three!) power wires going out. 2 of those will be flashing (dependant on lever position) and the other will be the opposing rear brake light.

    I know this explanation is crude.. I don't write as good as Glennsexton but I'm trying... Hope this helps and take a moment to digest what I've written.. I'll think on it some more and see if I can't explain it better.

  8. #23
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    I see. I'v got the same '51 diagram printed, but I may be able to use the '53 diagram to figure some things out. The cars are very close... The turns both sides but no brake light is what's getting me. I had the turn switch pulled apart last week so I could check it and all connections are tight, so it HAS to be working right, it just seems like it's not.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

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  9. #24
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    Who's switch? Do you know? Maybe we can find a wiring diagram for it??!!??

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    I had the turn switch pulled apart last week so I could check it and all connections are tight, so it HAS to be working right.
    Don't bet on it! Never assume anything and always check the simple things twice first!

    I figured you were going to say you fixed it when you were checking grounds! Bad grounds will always make you pull out your hair! BTDT!

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Matt167, here's a very generic explanation of what should be happening. When the brake switch engages (circuit closes) the power goes into the turn signal switch and get directed to the front and rear lamps. When you pull down on the lever, the left side is run through the flasher and the right (rear) brake power continues on un-interupted. When you push up on the lever, the left(rear) power is un-interuppted and the right side is run through the flasher.

    This is why I said to test at the signal device, you should have 1 power coming in (from the brake switch) and the turn signal device breaks it into 3 (three!) power wires going out. 2 of those will be flashing (dependant on lever position) and the other will be the opposing rear brake light.

    I know this explanation is crude.. I don't write as good as Glennsexton but I'm trying... Hope this helps and take a moment to digest what I've written.. I'll think on it some more and see if I can't explain it better.
    I understand how the switch works, ultimately seems what is happening, is the brake power is just not making it's way to the left side of the switch.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Who's switch? Do you know? Maybe we can find a wiring diagram for it??!!??
    Guide 6004 it was a dealer installed switch. Diagram is in 1 of my posts above.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Don't bet on it! Never assume anything and always check the simple things twice first!

    I figured you were going to say you fixed it when you were checking grounds! Bad grounds will always make you pull out your hair! BTDT!
    Yep, unfortunatly I'v verified the grounds are good because I get nice bright lights, unless I'm missing somthing. This has to do with the turn switch itself I think.. Going to jumper some test leads just to make sure on the grounds.. Not giving up on the simple things yet
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

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  14. #29
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    Good for you! You'll get it yet!

  15. #30
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    How about the jumper post 17 (existing jumper) is that making a good connection? If that is good you may be looking at a bad turn signal switch. You could meter that. If you have juice there and it's not getting out back it's telling you the switch in not happy. Noting that the turn signal LH is working confirms the wiring is correct, ground good.
    Last edited by pepi; 07-10-2012 at 08:35 PM.
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