Thread: Project 35
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08-09-2012 08:15 PM #1
Project 35
Here are a few pics of work in progress on my 35 Dodge pickup.
Adding strutless lower arms and rolled the rack back 12* to eliminate one steering knuckle.
There's a lot more pics but these are the only ones that will load.,will get the others posted when I figure out how.
Kerry
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08-09-2012 08:22 PM #2
Nice work Kerry, the new lowers look great and make for a much nicer suspension!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-09-2012 09:02 PM #3
Pictures come up kinda as they please without my control on which ones or what order, but here's a few more.
I started this rebuild about 15 years ago. Straightened the frame, added the Mustang 2 steering, boxed in the rear of the frame that wasn't done factory. Installed a 69 Road Runner R axel with a 391:1 limited slip from a van, and mounted that on Dodge D-50 leaf springs.
Kerry
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08-10-2012 03:57 AM #4
Nice work Kerry!! The 35s are a neat body style.
Since they went to this new format on the forum, I’ve been using a photo bucket account and just linking to pictures there....for me it’s easier than trying to use the attachment function on this forum.
I’ve got a 37 dodge PU that so far has been a 10 year project (but at least it’s back in the shop now). Naturally I’ve got a few questions.
What engine and transmission are you running? How do you like the D50 springs under it (and do you have any rear suspension pictures) ? I’m Getting ready to hang a 69 B Body Dana 60 under mine and am curious how your setup worked out.
Anyway keep the updates coming.I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
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08-10-2012 07:27 AM #5
Nice to be back at it, and I agree with Mike, those have a very stylish design.
You may already be planning this, but since you're using an OE Pinto/Mustang II crossmember you may want to box that section around the lower control arm mounting. Eliminating the strut rod puts all the torsional stress on that crossmember rather than transferring a majority to the "frame" section.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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08-10-2012 08:18 AM #6
I read about and checked out your 37 when I first found the CHR site. That's going to be a bad Mofo,...or Mopar. I'm going a little milder than you and using an injected 318 and the big overdrive (A 518?) trans. and lock up converter.
When I get the ft. completed with the new 11" discs rolling I'm going to install the rear brakes & seal that end up. I'll get some pics of the mounts and shackles.
I like the D-50 springs cause 1 they are Dodge, 2 the length from the rear shackle to axel center is same as the 35, 3 the front part is short and makes me think they won't flex much under acceleration (any feed back on #3), and 4 the trucks have similiar weight.
Kerry
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08-10-2012 08:25 AM #7
Are you saying to box in the opening where the OE arm protruded? Maybe gusset to the frame also? Actually never considered it, but today would be the day to do it before the paint dries on the lowers.
Thanks, Kerry
You may already be planning this, but since you're using an OE Pinto/Mustang II crossmember you may want to box that section around the lower control arm mounting. Eliminating the strut rod puts all the torsional stress on that crossmember rather than transferring a majority to the "frame" section.[/QUOTE]
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08-11-2012 01:59 PM #8
Well, I had a few setbacks. I had cut 2 3/4" off the old springs to get the heigth right. The 350# springs that were recommended are as stiff as the ones I already had before I cut them, and the oem shocks won't clear the opening in the lower A arm.
I started measuring and the tubular lower arms have the spring perch moved out towards the ball joint 3/4" more than stock but they left the shock mount in the stock location. Maybe the new shocks have a smaller diameter piston to clear the arm and not rub the spring when the frame in jacked up.
Anyone else had these problems?
Kerry
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08-11-2012 03:21 PM #9
The tubular lowers you have are made to work with tubular uppers.... Most MII arms have a different spring location then OEM.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-13-2012 06:28 PM #10
Well I called in this morning and the salesman wanted pics with the new springs installed. I pulled the old springs out-reinstalled the new, took pictures and since the shocks won't fit with springs installed-pulled springs and installed shocks and took pics of the lower arm imbedding it's self into the shock.
Still waiting on a reply.
Pictures aren't coming through here so I'll try again later.
Kerry
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08-13-2012 07:11 PM #11
OK finally tricked the computer into loading only the pics I wanted to post. Trying photobucket next time.
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08-16-2012 10:12 PM #12
I use Web shots to download and link so easy .
m
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01-03-2014 01:06 PM #13
Hello, I'm back at the 35 again. I resolved the shock to A arm issue (about 15 months ago) by just notching the lower arm. Heiths (?spelling) finally broke down and sent a pr. of lighter wt. springs that may be correct.
Got an order in with all the steering U's-shaft-heims and firewall brg. mt. I'm fitting that now then need to build a column and lower hanger for it. Been a long time since the 35 has had a functioning steering wheel.
Kerry
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01-03-2014 01:18 PM #14
Glad to see you're back into it! Thanks for posting!!Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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01-03-2014 04:38 PM #15
Ditto!! X2, Glad to see you making progress and thanks for the update.
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird