Thread: Meller's "Last" Hoorah - '62 Fairlane

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Same one's I use Ken!!!! Never had any problems with them, dang good for the price!

I checked the last set I bought on my trusty Simpson VOM and there was less than 500 ohms on any wire, that's plenty good enough for the street and it'd hard to beat the price.

where they specifically for your 302, Ken?
what I'm really wanting also is not so much wire to deal with so cutting and fitting seemed like an option for me

I always thought that VOM was the abbreviation for Vaarrroooomm

Originally Posted by MelloYello

where they specifically for your 302, Ken?
what I'm really wanting also is not so much wire to deal with so cutting and fitting seemed like an option for me

I always thought that VOM was the abbreviation for Vaarrroooomm

The last set of Taylor's I bought were for a 390 I had.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta.../model/mustang

If I didn't have the Moroso's on the Mustang this is what I would buy. These are blue and they also come in red and black.

Em, I really think you're going to be happier with a Universal set of wires where you install the plug end cut-to-fit than you will with a pre-made set. I'm not promoting Summit as the only source, but they DO have a very nice shopping feature to narrow down your selection. On their site go to Spark Plug Wire Sets, then on the left side use the "Narrow Your Resluts" and start selecting the things you want - V8, Universal Set (Yes), Assembled (No), and most important the style of ends for both the distributor and the plug boot angle. You can narrow down to a dozen or so choices, even limiting the color - a really easy to use search engine.

Looks like I might be the odd man out here. On that 351 I put together several years ago, I used Mallory wires; they came with the plug end boots and terminals already on them, and I put them into a loom and fit and crimped on the distributor cap ends; came out quite nice.

Don't see where you set the choke yet.. so I'll give some highlights to get her goin'..

first thing in the morning, with the air cleaner off!

open (keep open) the throttle about 1/2 way, with the fasteners for the choke spring housing loose, turn the choke housing so that the choke plate (butterfly) opens and closes. With the plate just barely closed, there should be lines under a pointer at the top, after the plate closes, go one extra line. (turning the cap in that direction is called "richer", turning the cap so the butterfly opens is called "leaner")

Tighten the choke housing and behind the housing is a cam, make sure the cam has the fast idle screw hovering above the top step.
Release the throttle from the halfway position and double check the fast idle screw is now on the top step of the choke cam.

If all looks well, (pump the throttle 2 or 3 times and start the motor without depressing the gas pedal. After startup, if the idle is to high or to low, you can change that on the idle adjustment screw behind the choke housing. If it puts out black exhaust, you'll need to lean the choke out by turning in the opposite direction that you did to close the plate.. Or if it starts and dies quickly, it may need a richer choke so you'll turn it in the same direction that you first did to add another line at the top.

After a moment or two, you should be able to "blip" the throttle and it should come off the peak of high idle, but still be on the high idle cam.. The engine should be turning maybe 8 to 1000 rpm and should be fast enough so that it won't die when dropped into drive.

Once the engine is mostly up to full temp, the choke should already be wide open and you'll be on the regular idle screw...

There's the quick and dirty FoMoCo choke adjustment... been doing it this way for decades and it should work for you. Keep us updated as we'll be waiting for news!

thanks Mike, I'll let you know how it comes out - - - - btw, the aftermarket kit doesn't have any marks that I could see but "seeing" hasn't been my best talent lately hahahaha

preciate it,
Em

Then once the plate closes, place some marks on either side of some central point so you can make further adjustments if needed..

will do, Mike, I kinda overdid it yesterday and we're getting a storm this morning so I'm gonna use that as an excuse to kick back and rest today - - - - tomorrow is another story tho !

Em, it would help if you post a picture of your new electric choke assembly mounted on the engine - maybe one pic showing the side of the carb for perspective, and a close up of the choke housing.

Decided to do this real quickly before we lose power - - - big storm rolling thru this morning.

Cold Engine Ignition Off


Cold Engine Ignition Off
(OK, the housing does have marks, but the cap doesn't, I told you "I no look so good")


Cold Engine Ignition Off and Half Throttle

Good luck weathering the storm, Em.

PS: ^ those are some nice pics but that's not a subject I can help you with.

SO???? How's it working??? LOL..

just like him......not at all

Well, I figure it's time for an update so here goes.

First of all I want to thank Denny, Mike, Ken, Roger, Dave W., Iwannagofast and ALL THE OTHERS for their invaluable help in getting my Gomer Pyle brain thru all of this ?so far?

Since I posted last, my efforts have been directed towards stopping the oil leak at the oil pan drain plug so I could at least try and get it started. It seems that the problem wasn't a stripped plug at all but a leak outside the edge of the normal plug and gasket which ?kinda? explains what the Barrio Brothers had done.







So for now, I have solved the problem temporarily with a longer plug that accomodates a proper fitting larger brass washer and rubber washer.





So far it is holding oil very nicely but once I get it to where I can get it on the ramps then I'll address this more carefully and properly.

I also have rebuilt the carb return spring bracket so that it wouldn't turn sideways like Roger mentioned it might. I also applied some proper springs to the build.



The linkage is now inline and runs straight and level instead of running at an angle but I still haven't addressed the kick-down which Ken keeps reminding me of. Thanks Ken, I need all the memory help I can get.

AND Last but by no means least - - - mounting the new carb and getting it cranked. I'll try to be brief but the bottom line is that during the process of learning how to set the electric choke (thanks Gentlemen), putting the spacer between the intake and the carb in upside down (a supreme Gomer moment, I might add)



It is still needing some adjusting by someone a lot more qualified than me. Hopefully I can find a local Rodder/Mechanic/Compassionate do-gooder that will let me pay him/her to come over and take a look.

Guess that about brings my "fiasco" up to date and I have managed to get it cranked but with an idle of 1400 rpms according to the tachometer on the dash. It started to work on my nerves so I'm backed off of it for a few days and doing some much needed yard work and R&R.

Once I get it to crank and idle properly then I'll be moving on to replacing the plug wires, cleaning up the rat's nest Barrio wiring and a shroud on the radiator along with some tweeking there. Then it's off to the Pros from some dual exhausts out the rear and some tranny checking, including the kick-down and cooler. Should be winter time by then and a lot cooler.

Thanks again to everyone who has been so generous and kind with their help.

Em