Thread: Meller's "Last" Hoorah - '62 Fairlane

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Unka Bob, have you and my Wiffy been talking behind my back?

Mike, I'm probably gonna change the shocks anyhow because I know that the travel won't be correct and, as far a fun goes, I found out that I am big time rigid in all the wrong places - - - however, after 6 trips down-under I did manage to get the measurements so I can get new U-bolts and I also found out that I can't get the tire high enuff to keep it off the ground with a jack stand after releasing the floor jack. I'll probably have to pulll the tire so the axle will hang down free before I remove and replace anything. Also time to call in some markers from the Sons or Grandsons.

Calling in those markers is a good idea - if you can get them to pay up; I have a hard time with that, their schedules don't necessarily jive with my wants or needs. Since they are both over forty, now, they are beginning to listen to things I say more than they used to, though, so having them work on something for me is less of an argument, now.

Please excuse me if this is a "Gomer Question" but why couldn't I leave the tire on the ground and put a floor jack underneath the rear spring? Then just put a little tension on the rear spring with the jack and then loosen the U-bolts? Then ease off of the tension on the spring and remove the lowering blocks? Then use the floor jack to raise the spring up high enuff to get the shortened U-bolts installed and the nuts started? Like I said, this could be a real dumb question but I had to ask.

You're on the right path. If your jack will go high enough, I'd hoist the body up and set stands under it. Then let the suspension relax, Then pull the wheels for some working room. Then you can remove the old U-bolts and spacers and then lower the axle back to the springs.

But you're description should also work, I think the work area might be tighter tho'...

Thanks Mike, Dave and Harry said that I didn't need to be doing that "grunt" work with my recent "2" eye surgeries so I'm gonna see if my grandson or one of my sons can help. If not, then maybe the muffler man would do it before he does the exhaust - - - for a fee of course.

Yeah, I'm sure the muffler man will gladly "help you" for a fee! LOL.. It would be cool if the grandson helps you out!

Grandson is a hard worker, if you can keep him away from the ladies that is.

If it were mine I'd drop the driveshaft and have one person on each wheel so that when you release the pressure on one side it doesn't try to switch sides. Personally the safest way, IMHO, is to drop the drivesahft and brake line and drop it down by undoing the shackles.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Personally the safest way, IMHO, is to drop the drivesahft and brake line and drop it down by undoing the shackles.

Just to remove the spacers?? No way is that safer imho. Leave the springs connected to the shackles and lift from the center of the pumpkin then there's no way it'll flip in the 2 inches you remove, then bolt it back up.

Originally Posted by 34_40

Just to remove the spacers?? No way is that safer imho. Leave the springs connected to the shackles and lift from the center of the pumpkin then there's no way it'll flip in the 2 inches you remove, then bolt it back up.

When you release the pressure on one side and that side jumps into the wheelwell and takes with it anything in the way you'll understand, been there done that. And that was on my 66 Mustang which is the same suspension he is working on.

Well, if you read my description, you'll see where I say to let the suspension relax, the axle is above the spring(s), so when you remove the U-bolts gravity is still pushing the axle into the spring.

I also have done this many times, never had one swing around so I can't figure why your's did.

So, get the axle block installed yet?

Nope, the feller that's gonna dual it out for me said he would remove the lowering blocks before he did the exhausts.
If my eye and back weren't in such bad shape they would already be out but they are so I'm content with him doing it.

However, the fan shroud and 6 blade fan is on it's way to La Casa so I'll be draining "no-freez'em up stuff" and getting the rad ready to pull tomorrow and hopefully all of it installed by first of the week. Then I'll call da' Muffla Man

Yes you would want the blocks out before the mufflers go in. Not sure what NTFDAY is referring to. But you got a grip on the procedure

Speedway says delivery on Friday so I started on radiator removal this evening. Drained coolant from rad and block and it wasn't rusty or full of junk at all. Was a pretty good strain on the back getting the tranny cooler lines off and plugged and I didn't lose but just a little tranny fluid. Getting up and down several times made me decide to finish it in the morning or Friday morning. Looks like I should probably remove the chrome grill also in order to do it right. Looks like there's only 4 bolts holding it in - - 2 on each end at top and 2 on bottom about 1/4 way in from the sides. This will also allow me to drop the hose on the tranny cooler and replace with new hose and put a bolt in that was left out that holds the radiator to the housing. I may have to get a slightly larger spacer or shim the shroud a little towards the fan to get it properly located so it works properly. Sure looking forward to the fabricating and construction and hope I get rewarded with a cooler running engine.