Thread: torque converter?
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09-28-2013 03:26 PM #1
torque converter?
First off hello, i don't post much,but do read the forums.
I'm in need for a torque converter, but on a budget.I know you get what you pay for, but sometimes it's your only option.What i have is a 2dr 56 chevy.
This is a street driven car.
TH400 trans
373 r/gears
28" rear tire
454 bbc .100 domed forged pistons,zero decked block.aluminum heads valves are 225/188 115cc chambers
800 holley d/p
cam is a bullet racing mech solid lifter.
.050 dur. 251/259
LSA 110
ICL 104
2500-7200
I'm thinking of using a Hughs GM30
http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...g&keyword=gm30
Comments please.
Thanks JimLast edited by jimbos56; 09-28-2013 at 04:35 PM.
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10-01-2013 07:01 AM #2
Your best information will come from calling Hughes and giving them your specs. They will assist you in selecting the best converter for your application.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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10-01-2013 07:59 AM #3
for a street driven car I would in todays envirment--look at putting in one of the later trans with an overdrive and lock up converter---will lower road rpm and reduce cooling issues of trans/converter slippage, increase mileage----------I'd look at 4l60---4l80-----leaning toward the 4l80 as its electronic controlled and you'd have more capability to tailor it to your driving habits--
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10-01-2013 12:43 PM #4
I'd want a 10" converter with your combo, something that would stall to 3500. Call and talk to Jim Hughes about it.
Welcome to Hughes Performance!PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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10-01-2013 12:57 PM #5
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Jerry is right that a later trans is going to be better to drive for mileage, but they are a lot of money to make the swap. Hughes stands behind their stuff and it works very well.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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10-01-2013 01:23 PM #6
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10-01-2013 02:56 PM #7
Tech is RIGHT, the smart way to investigate an application is to call the vendor first and get their recommendation. If you havent chosen a vendor yet, call several....you will get some nerd phone help but some will be really helpful. Then, you can post to ask if anyone has had experience with a xxxx model. The manufacturer's info is the best starting point. Getting info from forums is like reading rest room walls; sometimes there is good info and sometimes the info is brown and smelly. Why would you want me to choose parts for your car? I might like polka-dot painted pistons and fuzzy dome lights.
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10-01-2013 03:57 PM #8
I had a Hughes converter in my 32 Ford pickup that was used mostly as a drag car but was occassionly driven on the street. Never had a minutes trouble with it. About the only thing on the truck that didn't give me grief.
Mick
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10-01-2013 04:49 PM #9
best to call hughes . i have had 11.s10.s 9.s and 8.s case size on the street size comes in to play some what on stall but there is a bit more to it like how the stator is cut. i had customers use Hughes on street stuff. i used Coan they will tell you any thing over 500TQ will cream a cheaper stall.and a Heavy car not the same game as car under 2700. so it will need good parts in it with a balloon plates. i do not know anyone building 199to$300.converters that are a match another companys $700 to $1000+. converter . i used many of the lower dollar built stalls stall.s made by many companys before i spent the money for a real converter .that was many trans re builds and many coolers in 3 of my car over the years when i busted them .i was having converters built for my customer.s cars that was some time ago but would think around $550to $700 someone could build you something that will hold up to what you have . a lower dollar shelf one is not going to cut it for very long. with the power your making and the weigth of the car the lower dollar builds just never held up very long no matter who made them under my foot good luckLast edited by pat mccarthy; 10-01-2013 at 04:54 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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10-01-2013 05:06 PM #10
Pat is making a really good point...it takes more research than just asking for a recommendation on a forum....talk to people who do this for a living....they KNOW what works best because IF they install a poor quality unit, THEY take the hit on the come back... For the guy who has never tried steak, he will recommend road kill to eat not knowing that there is a better choice out there. Unless you are in the business of converters OR have bought more than five, the common hot rodder is most likely not qualified to recommend.....Last edited by robot; 10-01-2013 at 05:44 PM. Reason: clarify gibberish
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10-01-2013 06:30 PM #11
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I can tell you first hand that summit brand converters are bad news. I wiped 2 of them out with regular street driving. You guys have it easy. The converters I'm used to buying for diesels are $1250 up.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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10-02-2013 03:50 AM #12
not me it hurt like hell shelling out the 1100. for the steel stator Coan i pick up 10 years ago .BUT still works and the time pulling the tran out and the rebuilds and all the junk cooler.s from the cheap one,s coming apart took there toll on the wallet. when i build a engine every one wants big power . build a engine done .get on line buy a cheap converter done ? No all the power is going thru the converter .you do want to see the power you paid for? no place to get cheap it just will not pay offIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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10-02-2013 12:57 PM #13
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Plus, you trash a converter now you take the risk of hurting the trans and damaging a cooler or the pump. It will get expensive quick. (I may have done this)Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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10-03-2013 11:47 PM #14
First off thanks for all the responses.I have two recomendations.
1. From the Tech. dept at TCI 241001 $468.75 TCI Streetfighter with Anti ballooning plates with a stall of 3400-3600 rpms
2.From Hughs TECH. DEPT GM30HD. This is our Heavy Duty Pro Street series 9" torque converter, and will provide 3,200 - 3,600 RPM of flash stall speed with your combination. This converter is ideally suited for regular street use as well as all performance $439.
I will be using a cooler.
Any comments please.Last edited by jimbos56; 10-03-2013 at 11:49 PM.
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10-04-2013 06:46 AM #15
yep i have the 9 .s size in my heavy car.s a one 8 from tci many that failed from the last company. turned the die cast stator.s to mush . i do some more calling but sounds about right . price may of drop??? but still think here is were you over build....this is by far better then to under build. yes you need a big cooler i used a stack plate kindLast edited by pat mccarthy; 10-04-2013 at 04:26 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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