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Thread: 34 going up on jack stands for a while
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    rspears's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    So yours has the 90 down at the top, and the straight fitting out from the bottom but not the funky bends, right? Looks very similar to mine, and I used the U-Bend lengths from VA to extend mine, up & back from the bottom one, ending horizontal pointing aft; and down & back on the top one, ending parallel to the bottom one, held in place by a common clamp/bracket to the side of the radiator.
    Roger
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  2. #17
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    One option you might think about is going to a tubular finned aluminum transmission cooler which you can mount elsewhere. That would provide you with plenty of room to mount the condenser in front of the radiator. That is the route I chose when I built my car but that would mean more work and additional cost. But it may ultimately be a better way to make this transition. My two cents . . .


    Lynn
    '32 3W

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  3. #18
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    Lynn, I am going to move the transmission cooler. The problem is finding a reasonable place to put it considering that the car is channelled over the frame and I have a triangulated rear suspension (P&J). Besides, that cooler is way too large. The trans temp never moves the needle on my 100-250F gauge.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #19
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    One reason trans coolers(heat x) are in the radiator is to WARM the fluid to operating temps------------

  5. #20
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    Jerry, I realize that. While I have the radiator out, I'm going to see if I can find someone to install an HX. There's very little space for it, though. The radiator comes to a point at the bottom just like the grille shell. I'll post a photo when I get it pulled.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  6. #21
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    Gone from on the road to up in the air. Everything in front of the engine except for the front axle is coming off.

    Teardown small.jpg

    Since I have to add some wiring for the A/C and I have to paint the dash, I'm doing some rework in the wiring. All of the miscellaneous single wires going to the dash are being replaced with three multi-pin connectors. The only problem was remembering / figuring out what I did 7 years ago.

    Wire Small.jpg

    I also pulled the headers to have them coated. From the looks of the exhaust ports, I may be running a little rich. What do you think?

    Exhaust Small.jpg
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  7. #22
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If it's been doing a lot of around town cruizin', probably just from that. What I can see of 1 ex. valve looks clean! Are the ports maybe just sooty black from chuggin' around????
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  8. #23
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Yeah, Dave, I haven't had a chance to wind it out recently. Mostly running around town.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  9. #24
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    I found this little item, which should help route the A/C lines in one or two of the very tight places.

    90 Close.jpg
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  10. #25
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    A new neighbor came over to introduce himself while a friend and I were talking about how to get the condenser in my '34. His first question was, "What year is it?" When I said the body is a glass reproduction of a '34 Ford, his second question was . . . wait for it . . . you guessed it . . . "Was it a kit, then?"
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  11. #26
    rspears's Avatar
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    If he only knew..... I'm tempted to say, "Yeah, remember the AMT kits? It was sorta like that...."
    NTFDAY likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  12. #27
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    Ah the "Kit" question! Little understanding that even the most complete body and chasis "packages" just don't bolt together and bam your done! Some people think hot rods with fiberglass bodies are like the old glue together model kits with complete instructions and all parts included!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  13. #28
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    Henry! You mean you forgot to check the little box in the kit options for a condensor? I am sure you can go back to the kit company and get that part. It should be simple.

  14. #29
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    Some Progress

     



    It's a little discouraging to have a car that was driveable in this state - but it's the only way I'm going to Get A/C.

    0 Teardown.JPG

    In order for the condenser to fit, it will have to be offset to the driver's side. However, with it painted black, it won't show up.

    0 Rad Front.jpg

    The condenser is about 2" too long, so it will have to be mounted at a slight angle. There's ample room for clearance, though.

    Oh - and those cheesy brackets Gibbon used to mount the radiator will probably have to stay.

    0 Rad Side.jpg

    I am concerned about how to mount the condenser. I have some ideas, though. I believe that the sides of the radiator are simply stretchers between the upper and lower tanks. I think (to be verified first) I can drill into them and use short, sturdy sheet metal screws.
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 11-15-2013 at 08:24 PM.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  15. #30
    parkwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry Rifle View Post
    It's a little discouraging to have a car that was driveable in this state - but it's the only way I'm going to Get A/C.

    Attachment 59937

    In order for the condenser to fit, it will have to be offset to the driver's side. However, with it painted black, it won't show up.

    Attachment 59938

    The condenser is about 2" too long, so it will have to be mounted at a slight angle. There's ample room for clearance, though.

    Oh - and those cheesy brackets Gibbon used to mount the radiator will probably have to stay.

    Attachment 59939

    I am concerned about how to mount the condenser. I have some ideas, though. I believe that the sides of the radiator are simply stretchers between the upper and lower tanks. I think (to be verified first) I can drill into them and use short, sturdy sheet metal screws.
    Jack with the condenser so far from the radiator i would be afraid that the air might not make it thru the radiator good enough to keep the water cool.. could be wrong but i've always been told that the condenser needs to be as close to the radiator as possible with out touching to get the air to flow thru both and work right ...
    You don't know what it is to love a car until you build one.

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