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11-20-2013 08:52 AM #61
Jack, this is a photo of my radiator and condenser before the car was reassembled. Since it worked on my '32 radiator, I would assume it would work on yours as well. I got it from Yogi's.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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11-20-2013 09:07 AM #62
Jack,
Looking back at your post #29 it shows the front of your frame which ends right at the crossmember above the axle. You mentioned that your radiator sits out in front of the frame as opposed to sitting on tabs like most do. Just how does your radiator mount? Is it supported fully by the grille shell?Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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11-20-2013 11:01 AM #63
And the bottom tank on that radiator is wayyyyyyyyyyyy bigger than it needs to be just to collect coolant for the pump---there is more than enough room(volume) in it to put any size x changer---------
After going back and looking at all the pics----I think its about time that you make the simple dicision to find a radiator shop that will fix the issues with your lower tank by straightening out the front of the lower tank and while they are in there to install an trans heat X---then your condenser will fit, you will have the trans cooler solved---etc----the way your going isn't improving the workings or reliability of your car-------Contact Walker, C & R, etc for a combo package that will fit or have them do a custom sized unit, but eliminate the 2 problem areas you have-----( there are others in the rod custom radiator biz also)Last edited by jerry clayton; 11-20-2013 at 11:13 AM.
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11-20-2013 06:03 PM #64
Steve - It can heat or cool depending upon the temp of the fluid from the trans.
Lynn - Not a chance. It's too tall, and mine is slanted.
Roger - There's a lower bracket that attaches to the frame and an upper bracket that bolts to the grille shell. See photos below:
The pads on the frame shows where the shell attaches. The bottom radiator hose goes through the opening on the left side of the frame. Of course, I had to modify it because the original "builder" didn't put it in the right place.
1 Frame.JPG
In this photo, you can see the flat-head allen bolt that holds the radiator to the grille. There is another hole just above where the radiator strut from the firewall is attached. On the bottom, there are two holes to attach the grille shell to the frame. I'm going to replace that twisted piece of flat bracket that came with the package.
3 Shell.JPG
In this photo, you get a decent side view of how everything attaches. Substitute the top of the frame for the table top and you can see how far below the front frame rail the shell drops.
5 Shell.JPG
Jerry, I understand what you're saying, but squaring off the bottom of the tank will totally foul up the looks of the grille from the front, and at this point, I'm just not going to go out for a new, custom-built radiator. I will find someone to cut open the tank, install a HX coil and give me an inlet/outlet in the back. Derale makes a small frame mount cooler that I can mount crossways beneath the frame.
Final note. Think about this, when I'm done, I'll have a chiller on the front and a fan on the back - all installed within the grille shell. That's quite a package.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-22-2013 03:44 PM #65
Parts . . .
Parts arrived today - unrelated to the radiator, condenser or AC.
IMG_4336.jpg
IMG_4341.jpgJack
Gone to Texas
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11-22-2013 04:01 PM #66
nice ram horns!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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11-22-2013 05:00 PM #67
Sanderson shorties, Jet Hot polished silver coating.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-22-2013 05:10 PM #68
Got the same finish on my Sandersons only they are a bit bigger(460 ford)!
Was wondering if yours came with instructions not to use head gasget only RTV?" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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11-22-2013 08:03 PM #69
Steve, they may have - I don't remember. In any case, I use Earl's Pressure Master header gasket sets. Check Jeg's PN 361-29DB3B. Not cheap, but totally worth it. Solid as a rock and no leaks - ever.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-22-2013 08:37 PM #70
Another vote for Earl's here! In fact, I think somebody here recommended them to me - may have been Jack! They're the best, and once you have them the inserts are replaceable at ~50% of the total cost.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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11-22-2013 09:46 PM #71
It was me, Roger. I have the replacement inserts sitting on the shelf in the garage. Another advantage is that the header bolts don't loosen.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-25-2013 06:43 AM #72
I have had those same headers on my car for ten years, and while they have grayed out, there is no sign of any deterioration. I used Stage 8 locking fasteners, and I have had no leaks from the original set of gaskets. Sanderson's are worth the money.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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03-10-2014 11:16 PM #73
I haven't quite figured out the trans cooling and the condenser mount, so I've been fiddling around adding some parts that I've been accumulating for a while. Before and after photos are attached. I was originally going for a rather basic driver, but . . . well, you know . . .Jack
Gone to Texas
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03-11-2014 01:41 PM #74
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03-11-2014 07:02 PM #75
"If it don't go, chrome it." Since it wont be going for a while, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.Jack
Gone to Texas
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