Thread: 34 going up on jack stands for a while

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Everything is looking nice. This is one thing I really want to add to my 40 eventually.

Thanks for the encouragement. Right now, I need it.

At least you should have room in the '40. This is like stuffing 5 lbs. of "stuff" in a 4 lb. bag.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Thanks for the encouragement. Right now, I need it.

At least you should have room in the '40. This is like stuffing 5 lbs. of "stuff" in a 4 lb. bag.

Yeah, it sure looks that way with the size of the dash and such.

I'm at my wit's end for a location for a cooler - except a remote unit in the trunk. I think this one will work, as soon as I find a way to get outside air to the fan. It has a built-in thermostat to allow the trans to build up temperature to 180F, then the fan comes on.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I'm at my wit's end for a location for a cooler - except a remote unit in the trunk. I think this one will work, as soon as I find a way to get outside air to the fan. It has a built-in thermostat to allow the trans to build up temperature to 180F, then the fan comes on.

I would look into this cooler/fan set up. Similar to what you have shown, but Derale doesn't use a quality fan.

Amazon.com: B&M 70298 Hi-Tek SuperCooler Oil Cooler with Fan: Automotive

The B&M is also 1.625" thinner which helps if you mount it along the underside somewhere. The Derale you have pictured also has 8AN fittings which if you use 8AN line is wayyy overkill. 6AN (3/8) would be just perfect.

Thanks for the info. I looked, and reviewers said that the size of the B&M unit was quite a bit larger than advertised. The B&M fan has 45% more CFM rating, though. BTW, the Derale comes with -6AN and larger. More research. . . .

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Thanks for the info. I looked, and reviewers said that the size of the B&M unit was quite a bit larger than advertised. The B&M fan has 45% more CFM rating, though. BTW, the Derale comes with -6AN and larger. More research. . . .

SPAL fans are by far the highest quality fan you can use. Spals numbers are dead on and I was even told that by an engineer that works for another fan company.

I can get you exact measurements if you would like. I have a few of the B&M coolers on cars. I have run them on all sorts of stuff from street rods to street cars that make north of a 1000hp.

I also wouldn't put much stock in Amazon reviews. Remember where you are at when reading those.

I come from a transmission background and Long makes the best coolers on the market and that is who makes the B&M cooler.

In fact B&M makes nothing on the assembly. Long makes the core and Spal makes the fan and mount.

Thanks for the reply. I could use the measurements on the B&M 70297 and 70298. I will have to go in the trunk, though. There's no room elsewhere. I'll need fresh air into the trunk, and some sort of plenum to make sure that the fan only blows out. That's not a big problem, though.

70297 is almost 14 wide, 10.250 tall, and just over 3.5 thick
70298 is 10 wide, 10 tall, and right at 4 thick

Just a thought, but I have mounted them right off of the floor using windshield wiper motor rubber mounts with a nutsert. The wiper mounts will squeeze into the holes on the core and I use a 1/4 20 SS button head to thread into the nutsert.

Thanks for the measurements and the suggestion. Now I have to figure out airflow, because this one will have to go inside the trunk. Too bad I have a glass body instead of steel with louvers . . .

Jack,

Going back through your thread I noticed you were fighting mounting that A/C condensor. If you ever need any welding done I'm not too far from you. Well I'm assuming you are in Little Elm TX. I'd be happy to help you out. As far as mounting the trans cooler I would really love to come take a look at the car. I work in tight spaces all the time and sometimes it may take a second set of eye balls to spark a new idea for mounting it.

I could also bring a 70298 with me to give you a better "visual"

I did get the condenser mounted. Uploaded photos are on earlier post #86. I appreciate the offer to come by. Another pair of eyes wouldn't hurt. If you're good with TIG, it might be worthwhile to see if there's a way to put a HX in my radiator tank. If I could do that, I may be able to find a place for an auxiliary cooler and avoid the remote completely.

I'm retired, so other than the normal shopping and some family stuff, I'm around most of the time. I am in Little Elm and live not far from the intersection of FM 423 and Panther Creek Pkwy. I'll PM you the address & cell #.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I did get the condenser mounted. Uploaded photos are on earlier post #86. I appreciate the offer to come by. Another pair of eyes wouldn't hurt. If you're good with TIG, it might be worthwhile to see if there's a way to put a HX in my radiator tank. If I could do that, I may be able to find a place for an auxiliary cooler and avoid the remote completely.

I'm retired, so other than the normal shopping and some family stuff, I'm around most of the time. I am in Little Elm and live not far from the intersection of FM 423 and Panther Creek Pkwy. I'll PM you the address & cell #.

I got your PM. I will give you a shout.

As far as welding in an internal, I wouldn't do that. We have had multiple failures do to those coming apart and trashing the transmission not to mention other issues that are caused with trans fluid and coolant.

Just out of curiosity. What are your transmission temps on a normal TX summer day sitting at a stop light?

When I was running without A/C, I had a 10" x 10" x 2" 6-pass tube & fin cooler mounted in front of the radiator. The highest I ever saw it was 125-130F measured in the pan. I have an automatic lock-up in OD, and if I'm running in any other gear, I can lock it up with a switch on the dash. On the road, it very seldom kicks the temp gauge over the the minimum reading on a 100-250 gauge. I often put the 700R4 in neutral at stop lights because of the cam - and because I currently have a pre-bankruptcy Street Demon which I've never been able to tune correctly. I've been concerned that the trans doesn't get up to a good operating temp. (The engine is a Chevy Fastburn 385 upgraded to the same cam and roller rockers as the ZZ-430.)

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

When I was running without A/C, I had a 10" x 10" x 2" 6-pass tube & fin cooler mounted in front of the radiator. The highest I ever saw it was 125-130F measured in the pan. I have an automatic lock-up in OD, and if I'm running in any other gear, I can lock it up with a switch on the dash. On the road, it very seldom kicks the temp gauge over the the minimum reading on a 100-250 gauge. I often put the 700R4 in neutral at stop lights because of the cam - and because I currently have a pre-bankruptcy Street Demon which I've never been able to tune correctly. I've been concerned that the trans doesn't get up to a good operating temp. (The engine is a Chevy Fastburn 385 upgraded to the same cam and roller rockers as the ZZ-430.)

I would be more concerned that the gauge isn't correct. 125-130 is very low. Normal hot operating temp is about 5* over engine temp. I run 4L60s at about 165-170 to help with the horrible 3/4 clutch pack wear. 700s have the same issue so a good temp would be 160 to 190. Having the open sides does help with heat, but I can't imagine it would allow the transmission to run that cool.

The reason I ask is I have a brand new heat sink style cooler with 6AN lines I would happily give you to try out.

That doesn't surprise me about the Demon. I have had one and it was donated to an Airboat build my cousin was doing. To this date I think it is still in a box in his attic.