Thread: 34 going up on jack stands for a while

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You're right. I've been vacillating, and I probably won't go that way. I do have it figured out, though, and I'll post photos after I have it done. Thanks for the reality check.

It's just that getting all this equipment in a channeled lowboy is like stuffing five pounds of s**t in a four pound bag.

If it was easy... they'd all be doing it right?? I'll be (almost) patiently awaiting the photos showing results! 8-)

It will be more than a couple of turns of copper tube, and less than a full-on installation in the trunk.

I can't tell you how much work I had to do on this POS glass dash made by *he who shall not be named.*

Since I don't have the compressor and spray guns any more, and Duplicolor was crap, I just used gloss black Rustoleum. It won't win any awards, but it works for me.



Note to self: When taking photos of wiring so you can reassemble a dash, remember to use high enough resolution to be able to actually see all the colors and connections. 640 x 480 won't cut it.

Nice work, and some times you have to do what you have to do.

After taking a cue from 34_40, I quit over-thinking, chilled out and laid on my back under the car for a while. I believe I have found the simplest answer. My current trans cooler lines will reach nearly to the back of the car, so with a couple of extensions, I can mount a remote HX in this area, where I previously showed the mockup for finned heat sinks.



All I have to do is move the license plate back and cut out a bit of the rear rolled pan to mount a plate and fin HX. Neither of these modifications will be visible from the back of the car.



Nothing mysterious. Nothing in the trunk. Minor modifications needed. Simples. Parts to arrive next week. Photos to follow.

I just re-assembled my dash also.. from he who won't be named also.. luckily, it wasn't all that bad to do. It was harder finding someone to get the finish applied correctly (woodgrained).. When I did the wiring the first time, I installed a couple male/female couplers so it made it a simple plug and play.

I also changed to a Classic Instrument set of gauges (black face w\white fonts) at the same time, but it still went pretty good, a the couple pics I took helped after I printed them out.

Wow, that comment from 34-40 about just using a coil of copper tubing is provocative. Maybe that is the way (very)HOT Rodders can get away with it. The shop that installed my 700R4 was obsessive about heat damage to a 700R4 and I ended up with a line to the trans cooler in the bottom of my radiator in series with another passive cooler under the right front fender and the B&M trans thermometer gauge definitely stays cool but you dont have front fenders so the rear position seems like the best you can do. Even so the fact that some can just use a simple coil of copper tubing makes me wonder if I have been too cautious. However I am already on my secod 700R4 having lost the first to rusting during my long construction so I am not eager to try for a third in the near future. Still, the coil of copper tubing idea is worth remembering. Maybe 34-40 can let us know how long the 700R4 lasts with just a simple Cu-coil and a picture of that setup would be really interesting.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, my friend owned the truck for 4 years, he never babied it, lots of smoky burnouts and general "showing off"! He used the truck daily when the weather co-operated.. I can ask him if he has any pictures of his "cooler"..he did the same deal on turbo 350's and 400's.. I only see him occasionally but will try to remember and ask for a pic.

I've put a digital laser thermometer on my tranny pan and only seen over 250 degrees once. My aod only uses the stock radiator setup. FWIW..

I saw a photo of your dash. It was very well done. I also installed quick connectors on my dash I can pull the whole thing loose by removing two bolts and three plugs. With everything that sits under there, there wasn't much other choice.

Been dropping by here occasionally and I need to comment AGAIN about your trans cooler issues-----------You really need to stop, take a look at how the factories have done this for years-----the trans doesn't need a COOLER, it needs a HEAT EXCHANGER-----the one in the bottom of the radiators does the most effient job ----------it primarily HEATS the trans fluid up to an operating temp ------------those auxillary coolers are only needed for extreme towing applications with heavy duty trucks and in those cases they are then using the trans fluid to help cool down the engine coolant a few degrees-------


Jack---you really need to go back to the area where we discussed putting an exchange in the bottom of your radiator and if necessary find a different shop to do it----------------

Jerry, noted. Thanks for the comment.

There are coolers that are located in the lower (outlet) radiator hoses that would probably do the job for you, especially since its a light weight vehicle-----------

Jerry, do you have a reference? I haven't been able to find one.

I've got one from a firebird ws6 around here somewhere ---I'll try to locate it and take some measurements and pics to email you ---- won't post any pics on here as I'm leading a one man protest about posting pics----------


besides the firebird one there are several varieties used in marine applications----look at some mercury marine stuff