Thread: What headers should I run for my 65 chevy truck?

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I am building a 65 chevy half ton truck. I am dropping an original 1965 chevy SS 327 in it. What kind of headers - name brand - type should I run that will fit the best. I was thinking of running the long style. I know I had heard of different headers fitting on the frame along the motor and I did not want to have to cut the frame to make them fit. I have blasted, primered and painted it so I really do not want to have to cut it. I just want to get the right ones that will just fit!! I would really appreciate any and all advice. Thanks Striveguy

Originally Posted by striveguy

I am building a 65 chevy half ton truck. I am dropping an original 1965 chevy SS 327 in it. What kind of headers - name brand - type should I run that will fit the best. I was thinking of running the long style. I know I had heard of different headers fitting on the frame along the motor and I did not want to have to cut the frame to make them fit. I have blasted, primered and painted it so I really do not want to have to cut it. I just want to get the right ones that will just fit!! I would really appreciate any and all advice. Thanks Striveguy

If you don't get someone jumping in pretty quick you might jump into one of the GM Truck forums for truck specifics.

My choice would be Hooker ceramic:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...del/c10-pickup

I put a set on two years ago on a '71 C10 that is parked outside in the Pacific Northwest weather and they still look really good.

I had 40 series Flowmasters with 2-1/2" pipe and dump just in front of the rear wheels with cut chrome tips (My son's choice - I like rear exit personally). Sounds great.

Some additional thoughts - use copper gaskets, and use Stage 8 stainless locking header bolts as well as stainless bolts at the collectors - I know they're expensive but this way you will only do this once.

My 2 cents,
Glenn

Long tubes are great for performance and sound, but they do have a couple of drawbacks in a close fitting engine compartment. In my '59 half ton with the stock frame and suspension and the engine on stock mounts, the clearance between the headers and collectors (long tube Cragar's that I bought in about '73, very similar to these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...et/model/truck) and the frame was pretty tight; on the drivers side, it was close enough that the steering box got hot and the grease in it would "cook" and get thick and stiff, and the oil filter got pretty warm, too. I made it a habit to change the grease in the steering box when it would start to feel like it had lumps in it. I had heat shields on both the driver and passenger sides, but the clearance was just too close even with them. On the passenger side, it caused problems with the starter, and it might cause some with the fuel line running inside of the frame rail. Those headers were shot when I sold the truck, but if I had kept it, I was thinking about using some other style of header, maybe a "tri-Y" style, or even center dump "shorties" with the transition to two and a half inch head pipes before the turn to the rear of the truck; that would add almost two inches of extra clearance, and on the drivers side, they could be bent up to give extra clearance by the steering box. In truth, there are so many different designs, and approaches to these problems that a whole book could be written about them, and if one were to collect and publish all of the things that have been written and tried in the past forty or so years, it would fill volumes. Just be aware of the clearances around the important pieces of "the works".

I had a set of Hedmans on the 400 I had in a 62 1/2 ton, basically the same frame as yours. Hookers are better if you can afford them and Hedmans, IMHO, will work just as well.

I much prefer Earl's header gaskets to anything else on the market.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...ll-block-gen-i

.

I had good luck with summit brand headders in my 64 C10, but I did have to cut a very small bit from the frame for clearance. Very small, about a half inch deep from the frame top, inside, one side only.

As mentioned above. HOOKER. If you don't find anything call them direct and they could have what you need. I have had to call several times and they keep coming up with headers I don't have to use a BFH on. Good luck

I'd use cast iron factory manifolds to insure clearance around starter, steering, filter,fuel lines etc----------you can get them ceramic coated for appearance----headers won't give you any performance/milage advantage and in fact will probably knock it down in most rpm ranges that you drive on the street----and then there are the burnt plug wires, increased under hood temps causing vapor lock, difficulty to seal, spark plug change difficulty----------list goes on and on






There are some cast iron manifolds out there for the spec racing classes that would be a good choice for this

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

I'd use cast iron factory manifolds to insure clearance around starter, steering, filter,fuel lines etc----------you can get them ceramic coated for appearance----headers won't give you any performance/milage advantage and in fact will probably knock it down in most rpm ranges that you drive on the street----and then there are the burnt plug wires, increased under hood temps causing vapor lock, difficulty to seal, spark plug change difficulty----------list goes on and on






There are some cast iron manifolds out there for the spec racing classes that would be a good choice for this

pop the hood and then look at the face of the guy when you just handed his ass to him with stock looking engine with stock Gm iron manifolds.i knew a guy that loved to do that. but that was many years ago if you had a street car that ran low 12s with no Nos you were one of the big fish in the pond around here

Thanks to all you that have taken the time to respond to my questions. Striveguy

All of your responses have helped. Thanks Striveguy