Thread: LOKAR Dip Sticks

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Back when I was first installing the LOKAR engine flexible dipstick I posed the question about the proper installation and across the board got the advice to fill the pan to the "proper" capacity, then trim the inner cable to length to read "Full". I followed that procedure, but lately have become concerned that the level may be too high, allowing crank/oil contact. Today I contacted LOKAR via e-mail and was surprised to get a phone call within an hour from their tech group. Turns out that each engine oil (and tranny) dipstick is made to exact OEM specs to read "full" at the right dimension from the bottom of the tube mounting hex, where it contacts the block/housing, specific to each engine/tranny application. If you order the right part there is no adjustment necessary, and in fact adjustment is not advised. Apparently this is a common problem.

The good news for me is that for $11 they're sending me a new cable (extra long), and Brian gave me the procedure to bring my inner dipstick handle/cable back to OEM specs so that "full" is truly full. Once back to spec it's a simple matter of adding oil until it indicates full, and remembering that capacity for future reference.

Glad I asked before I made the same mistake on the SBC and 700R4 dipsticks, thinking I was doing it "right", and hope this clears up the question for anyone else who might have been mis-informed.

The nice thing about these purpose-made LOKAR trans dipsticks is that pan depth, cooler size and line capacity don't matter. Plug and play - and remember your fill capacity. I got too OCD when installing my 700R4 dipstick, worrying about pan capacity and thinking I was overfilling. Then I just sat down, read the instructions, and plugged it in. Great product.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

The nice thing about these purpose-made LOKAR trans dipsticks is that pan depth, cooler size and line capacity don't matter. Plug and play - and remember your fill capacity. I got too OCD when installing my 700R4 dipstick, worrying about pan capacity and thinking I was overfilling. Then I just sat down, read the instructions, and plugged it in. Great product.

That's right, Jack. It doesn't matter if the pan is 2" deep or 12" deep, the critical measurement is the fluid level relative to the case/block. I definitely got trapped in the OCD process on mine, worrying about pan capacity relative to the marks, and messing up my dip stick, but it'll be fixed soon....

That's impressive customer service I think. I can't remember the last time I heard of a company calling to discuss a problem with a product of theirs.

I think that's great.

Lokar has always been very kind to me, in my opinion their product quality is always superior.

OK, so LOKAR tells me that the dimension from the stepped end of the bottom hex, where it fits into the rail at the bottom of the block that the pan bolts to, is 6" to the "full" mark on the stick, i.e., insert the new inner cable into the outer housing until "full" is exactly 6" below the point on the outer sheath that butts into the block. My problem is that this measurement is "full" with four quarts of new oil in the pan, and I know for a fact that four quarts won't even get over the hump between the main sump and the little sump up front on this pan. I'm pretty sure that the pan is at least a 5 quart pan. Does anyone have a '86 to '94 SBF block core handy to support measuring the distance between the top of the hole in the driver's side rail to a point that just clears the crank throws? Sure, I could drop the pan and measure, but I'd really like to avoid that step if I can. Any help would be appreciated.

Isn't it 4 qts in the pan and 1 qt in the filter?
I maybe wrong, but on a stock SBC crank I believe the rod caps are about 4" below the pan rail. Hope this helps.

Ray, I agree it's often 4qts plus the filter on some OEM pans, but I'm thinking mine is OEM 5qts, and believe that 4 qts is not going to get to the top of the back sump to fill into the little front sump. If that's the case then drain down oil is going to fill the front sump, creating low level in the back. I've got a message in to Scott Sehr to see if he can help me get over this dilemma. I'm thinking that this is the pan I've got, but thinking mine came from a local supplier in Sioux Falls vs Summit - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...view/make/ford

Again I maybe wrong, but if the oil pickup tube is in the correct location at the bottom of the pan, it shouldn't matter wether or not there is oil setting in the front of the pan, as long as there is a sufficient oil reservoir at the sump. Ive always believed the front of the pan is simply a return path for the oil into the sump.

Back in the old days we would deliberately run the oil a little low (1/2 qt) to give a little more clearance to the crank and get a few extra rpm out of the motor (at least we thought so).

And, who you calling Ray? LOL
Bob

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

Again I maybe wrong, but if the oil pickup tube is in the correct location at the bottom of the pan, it shouldn't matter wether or not there is oil setting in the front of the pan, as long as there is a sufficient oil reservoir at the sump. Ive always believed the front of the pan is simply a return path for the oil into the sump.

Back in the old days we would deliberately run the oil a little low (1/2 qt) to give a little more clearance to the crank and get a few extra rpm out of the motor (at least we thought so).

And, who you calling Ray? LOL
Bob

Sorry Bob, CRS struck again, and I can't blame it on auto correct typing, either. My issue with the way these pans are built is that a cup or two of oil fills that front sump so if the "normal" is not at or above the overflow point then it drops the level in the main section as oil drains down into both sumps, until it reaches the overflow point.

oil pan.jpg

I'm a bit anal about knowing the oil level is right, or at least knowing where "right" is supposed to be so that I can adjust from the right spot and know there's enough capacity for those cooking summer days in Kansas.

Gotcha, I didn't account for the trapped oil in the front sump. Question, what is the reason for a double sump pan?

Does your pan have the low oil sensor plug? if it does, can you look or feel inside to see where the oil level actually is?

OK, looking at your pan at that angle I can see the front sump is for oil pump clearance and doesn't actual hold any oil (drains on the far side to the sump), so oil level should be the same 5 qt stock capacity including the filter.

That front sump does actually trap oil, which is why it has a second drain plug in the front corner. Like I said, once the main sump is drained you only get about a cup to cup and a half of oil from that little sump. The pan does have the tapped bung on the side, but I was told that is a turbo drain line connection which is there on all OEM pans. Had not heard the low sensor plug idea.... The side bung is only 2 3/4" up from the bottom, so it does not give me any port to see level vs crank throw. Nice idea, though!

Roger, Did you measure the depth of the pan (outside) at the back sump? If it's around 7.25" there, it's a 5 qt. pan made for your type of motor. I'd put in 5 quarts, set the dipstick to full at that point, and quit worrying about it. Of course, I could be wrong. I'm using a Chevy motor with a stock pan and stock dipstick.