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Originally Posted by robot

Dave, just a comment on your intake.....not a criticism but just some info.....we did a similar 90degree turn just upstream from the MAF and had some flat spots in the power curve....it seems that the darned thing is sensitive to turbulence and GM suggests 12" of straight air flow before the MAF sensor. If you see a similar symptom, that info might help you. We tried baffles, etc and even a programmable MAF. Car is looking nice.....you have a lot of work in it, time to enjoy the ride.

Actually, GM specifically states that the MAF sensor should be placed in the MIDDLE of a minimum 6" length of straight pipe, in the instructions included with the connect and cruise package. I have 7" of straight pipe. I also have a flipped throttle body, that makes the lower edge of the butterfly open backward toward the engine. In theory, you should get a fairly smooth flow, along the largest radius of the intake tube and right into to the lower side of the butterfly. The setup got a 1200 mile test, two years ago and worked fine. Throttle response is great and I got 20 mpg, in city driving.

I first made an intake snorkel that went down and around to the driver's side, with a smaller air cleaner, completely ignoring the instructions. A wasted quite a few days and bucks on an intake that would not work at all, since there was no straight pipe, anywhere. The engine wouldn't idle and surged a lot.

Assembling the car twice and test driving it added a lot of hours to the project, but it revealed a lot of suspension problems that needed major work to solve. A lot of changes were made that would have been impossible, once the car was painted and assembled. What I found is the Oze cars are designed to be trailer queens. Not much has to work well or be serviceable - as long as can you get the car off the trailer and parked, you're golden, providing it doesn't rain. I did a lot of extra work to make the car serviceable and not leak water inside.

Sounds like you have been thru the MAF shuffle....you are correct, the 6" upstream and downstream was in the instructions. We didn't have room for such so we had probably 20 hours on the chassis dyno to tune it out. Ours runs great now too.

Here's the last of the posts on my '37 Oze. In reviewing my many photos, the car was out of service for over a year, while the last of the extensive body work, suspension modifications and painting were done. A picture from 3-18-16 shows the main body being painted. By 6-29-16, the car was complete, except for the final floor insulation and carpet.

Here's a few photos of the carpet and interior panels, just finished a few days ago. I applied two layers of B-quiet sound proofing, followed by one layer of 1/4" closed cell neoprene foam, glued to the B-quiet. After that, a second layer of 1/4" foam was cut and laid down, but not glued. The black cut-pile boat carpet was glued to the last layer of foam, so it is removable. The carpet and foam made a big improvement in the interior noise level.

The underside of the body was sprayed with Lizard skin sound and heat control. The heat control was unimpressive. Even with a DEI muffler wrap kit and a lot of header wrap along the exhaust pipe, the floor was plenty hot before the foam was installed.

Congrats. It looks very nice.

How a throny bush turns into a beautiful rose!!!!!!!!!