Thread: Steer shaft routing through frame 1937 Buick

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Hoping for some advice for my first build (1937 Buick Roadmaster).
Will be using LT1 engine and tilt steering from a 95 Buick Roadmaster.
The engine outline is taped on the firewall of the '37 and the original steer column lines up with the right side of the outline.
I'm using a RetroRack rack and pinion and the current connecting design I'm considering requires a steer shaft to pass from top to bottom through the rectangular section of the frame.
This design requires two U-joints, but would require a hole to be drilled through the top and bottom of the rectangular frame. Could run pipe through the hole and weld at top and bottom for strength. See pictures.
1) Has anyone seen this approach before?
2) Does anyone see problems with this approach?
3) The other design I considered routes the lower section that's connected to the rack and pinion through a hole in bottom of the frame and then out at and angle out a hole in the side of the frame. Three U-joints would then route the steer shaft pieces around the outside of the frame to reconnect with the steer column.
4) This is my first build and I welcome other design options.
Thanks

Nice modeling...
While I've not passed steering through the frame, I have welded pass-through tubes into frames before and I don't see anything inherently wrong with your approach..

Not an expert on steering, but I think it would work fine. Nice modeling as well. Is that car really that rust free? It looks like it's in incredible shape.

I also think you can do it. As long as the chassis tube that passes through allows enough clearance to prevent a bind as the cab and chassis move differently.

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

Nice modeling...
While I've not passed steering through the frame, I have welded pass-through tubes into frames before and I don't see anything inherently wrong with your approach..

Thanks for the feedback

Originally Posted by 34_40

I also think you can do it. As long as the chassis tube that passes through allows enough clearance to prevent a bind as the cab and chassis move differently.

Thanks for the feedback

Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5

Not an expert on steering, but I think it would work fine. Nice modeling as well. Is that car really that rust free? It looks like it's in incredible shape.

Thanks for the feedback. The firewall was one of the few panels without rust. Have been repairing rust for years as well as replacing rotted wood with steel.

You need to start over-that set up will have so much bump steer that you won't like driving it

Jerry : WHY will bumpsteer result? I don't see how the routing of the shaft changes anything: so long as there is no bind from cab / frame flex.

C'mon, inquiring minds want to know.

the modeling shows independent control arms with a cross link steering rod from spindle arm to spindle arm- this would work with beam axle but will not be ideal with independent suspension-----If he used a steering unit where the control links and lower arms were same length it would ----like the Pinto.Mustang 2---------
Also the modling pics should the suspension quite a way forward of the engine--not an issue but sorta makes me question that altho the modeling layout is nice but possibly inacurrate?

I honestly can't tell quite what is going on with the steering linkages from those views. Maybe he could post a shot which better reveals the steering mechanism.

Thanks to all for the discussion.
Sorry for the confusion. The modeling of the tie rods is not accurate because that did not pertain to my question. I'm building a variation of the suspension upgrade described in the following Wikis:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ension_upgrade
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...inion_steering
Actually was lucky enough to e-mail with Don Wallace, the author of the Wikis before he passed away.
The model shows an accurate model of the center take off (CTO) Rack and Pinion that I have already purchased. The outer tie rods will connect from the steer arms. Inner connection is with ball joint end that will be centered on a point that lines up with the lower control arm pivot axis.
That way when the lower arms goes up in a bump, the tie rod should not be effected. The bracket in the center of the R&P will need to be modified, or replaced, to accomplish this.
Will be mocking this all soon and plan on measuring for bump steer before parts are welded in place.
Thanks

Something you and others might/should look at is the flexible steering shafts used in Pintos up to and including BMW or Mercedes
They are about 18-24 inches long and are a flexible stranded cable type unit that works very good and eliminates the problem of u-joints phasing/angles etc

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Something you and others might/should look at is the flexible steering shafts used in Pintos up to and including BMW or Mercedes
They are about 18-24 inches long and are a flexible stranded cable type unit that works very good and eliminates the problem of u-joints phasing/angles etc

Thanks very much for this recommendation. Will definitely look into these flexible shafts.