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07-18-2017 09:44 PM #1
Show me your Tudors.. 1937 - 194-????
lets see some pictures of all Ford Tudors 1937 through mid 1940s.
inside and outsides.
I'm looking for idea's but don't worry I won't copy anyone..
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07-18-2017 10:07 PM #2
scan.jpgThis is the only picture I have of mine. It's a 40 Standard that I bought in 1962 It was stone stock except for the black and white tuck and roll interior. The front tires are 5.50 x 15 and the rears are 7.75 x 15.Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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07-18-2017 10:31 PM #3
Hey, welcome to CHR! I was looking at your car pics and noticed you're in Downey. I'm not too far away in Santa Monica. I have a '37 tudor humpback, which has been a long term project. My dad & I built it the first time when I was in college. About 10yrs ago, changing the radiator turned into a total redo and it's still a work in progress. Life gets in the way sometimes. It's mostly bodywork and interior that I have left to do. There's a couple of lengthy threads on here but they might be overwhelming to you..."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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07-19-2017 11:56 AM #4
have any pictures of the inside rear side walls under the rear quarter windows?
the builder of my Tudor sealed those quarter windows, removing the regulator so the windows do not go up and down, I want to correct this, and possibly put in power windows (as the fronts are power).
I can't find any good images online of the interior panels and how or where the regulators go or even what they look like.
or maybe if it's cool with you I can come up sometime and take a look at yours.
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07-19-2017 09:32 PM #5
I have power windows on all four windows but they are not currently in the car. My dad and I scoured the salvage yard back in the day and devised a scheme that worked pretty good, however, in this rebuild, I'm going to upgrade the motor/riser mechanisms to something that works better.
On the original manual rear windows, after you crank it all the way up, you could keep cranking and the window would slide rearward a couple of inches to act as a vent window. We couldn't duplicate that motion with the electric windows so we fashioned a felt u-channel for the rear edge of the window to slide up and down and to prevent it from sliding rearward. There's also a felt u-channel for the front side of the window. Since this is a flat glass, several of the universal kits could be mounted to make it go up and down. The window will only go down about 2/3rd of the way because of the rear wheel well. I hope some of that makes sense....lol! I'll PM you my number. Feel free to call."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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07-20-2017 12:55 PM #6
I went through your thread last night, long read.. I scanned past the banter, man you have done a lot of work, is your Tudor drivable yet?
as for the windows..
looks like my fronts have issues, they go down but not back up without help, I can hear the actuator straining. I called the builder he said they are out of a late 70s Camaro. I'm thinking they are done.. I am going to purchase a whole new setup for the fronts and install it, no junkyard parts for the windows, I want them to work, I can't stand to drive in a car with the windows up, it is a phobia as a result of a car accident where I was broadsided on the passenger side by a drunk and smashed my head on the drivers window and shattered it, and knocked myself unconscious for 3 days. I rarely drive with the windows up, my windows have to function.
the rears.. I need to tear into the panel, there is some wood covering it, I will be removing this weekend I think and taking a look, I want to knock out the window issues before taking it in for upholstery. near as I can tell the rears do move up and down, but there is no visible crank, I believe that the original regulators are in there and possibly bolted to prevent movement, the builder doesn't know, he said the glass guy "locked them in place", if that is the case, there are some universal power modules that attach to the crank gear and give a power function without removing the original regulators.
check this kit out: 2 Pcs Universal Power Window Roll Up Conversion Kit with Switches for Car Doors | eBay
if that is the case then the roll back vent mode will work, as the window will roll up and then continue back since it is the OEM crank gear being turned. The trick is going to be making it stop in the up position and requiring you to press the up again to roll back.. pretty sure this can be accomplished using a one-touch control module like this one:
PWTR-A181D Auto Car Power Window Motor Close Control Module w One Touch Function | eBay
when it senses resistance it stops, so in theory it should stop once it is up and pressing the button again should do the roll back vent..
again, assuming you are using the original regulators that allowed this.
the 2/3s drop doesn't bother me, I've owned many cars over the years that had that issue.. as long as they go down about 6"-10" to allow air flow to mitigate the buffeting affect caused by having the fronts down at highway speed, I'm good.Last edited by mjeds; 07-20-2017 at 01:00 PM.
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07-20-2017 02:10 PM #7
On your power window selection, I suggest you use Nu-Relics. They fit and marry with the stock sliders perfect. When I was going to do mine, I asked for suggestions on an forum and six rod shop owners, that all knew me and my abilities, all six said Nu-Relics. They have a lifetime warranty and are true bolt in. I have been very satisfied. Don't buy Universal Kits when these are available.
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07-20-2017 02:13 PM #8
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07-20-2017 02:30 PM #9
My Car, at Strokers Shop last month - very much a driver. Not much worth copying but if you like something - go for it.
And one running at 95 playing catch up on the LA Freeway, two years ago.
My seats with the door panels almost done.
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07-20-2017 05:44 PM #10
Mate, Scooting, I have fallen in lust with your car, hot damn, that is one fine piece of automotive art and I haven't even seen underneath or the engine bay but it certainly tickles all the right spots for me.I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
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07-20-2017 05:56 PM #11
His car is very fine, hopefully mine can compete when it is complete. exterior is close, need to get the headlights in and the tail lights working, and then interior done.
1939FordSedanRedGreyDD-rear.jpg
1939FordSedanRedGreyDD-profile.jpg
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07-20-2017 06:08 PM #12
Yes it is a very fine vehicle but may I ask, what sort of era or style are you wanting ? If you are gunning for modern up to date style then you are there but if an earlier year style then I would have some suggestions that may help. Are those ghost flames airbrushed from the side grille openings ? I realize that you have already mentioned changing the exterior paint colour to something you find more appealing although I believe that is awesome now but your car and it seems a shame to rub down a good coat of paint before it has seen the odd chip from road use.I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
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07-20-2017 06:30 PM #13
paint is actually 15 years old
I'm going for a modernized street rod.. adding power windows, already has shaved door and trunk handles, putting in a high end sound system as well.
most of the car is done, the builder started it in 1994 finished in 2002, then started to rebuild it in 2010, but he is 88 years old and his heath is catching up with him, he has a 1932 Ford Coupe, 1935 Chevy Grand Master and an all original 1957 Nomad. He is selling the '32 and I think the '35 when he completes it.
He wasn't actually selling this '39, I went to look at the '32 and I fell in love with the '39 so I offered him his asking price on the '32. he wasn't initially interested but called me back a month later and asked if I still wanted it.
he gave me all the parts to complete it, but there are some that I am changing up that are more inline with my taste.
while the paint is actually in very good shape, I'm just not a red car guy..
and the flames are hand pin-stripped, by him. I won't be messing with those, I will leave the base of the car red, just do a black top and hood, and possibly black fenders.
this style, but in black and red:
blackGoldSedanBack.jpg
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07-21-2017 12:27 AM #14
OMG!! You went through my thread??? That thing is a marathon!! You're right, there's a LOT of banter in there!
No, the car is currently not drivable but believe it or not, it was my daily driver when I first moved to LA 20+years ago. I drove it back and forth to Oklahoma a few times, too. Here's a pic of it loaded up for the move at my parents house in OK."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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07-21-2017 10:18 AM #15
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