Thread: Rear axle set-up

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Looking for advice on setting up the rear axle on my 40 Studebaker build. What I have is a Chevy 8.5 rear axle on leaf springs. The shock mounts that came with the car were a joke. I can fab mounts I have from another frame, but don't completely understand the staggered/non staggered setup. I don't care to convert to 4 link, the leafs will work fine for my purpose. I'm afraid I don't have a real good pic of the rear end. Thanks

What do you mean by staggered / non staggered?

Originally Posted by 34_40

What do you mean by staggered / non staggered?

One shock in the front and one in the back on opposite sides?

Since shocks don't have equal dampening both in compression and out------------by putting one front and other rear of axle tubes----you get egual dampening of spring leaf flex--------

Yes, one in front of the axle and one behind. Wasn't sure of the benefits. Looking for a rear disc brake kit for my axle which is 73-4 Camaro, it specifies staggered or non. I can weld it up either way, just not sure of what is best. I will be running some sort of a sway bar also. Thanks.

Thanks Jerry, that tidbit has long gnawed at the back of my mind! Now we know.

Ah, I was unsure if you were referring to the offset of the differential or??
The staggered shocks (as stated earlier) makes them more efficient. Helps stop (slow down) the springs from wrap up under torque situation.
If you can mount them staggered, do it.

Appears to be a stock MII or Pinto front suspension system, but I don't see any strut rods to the rear. Maybe a photo from the side would help us to see more of the way you put it in. Also can't tell if you kept the anti-dive.

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It is a stock MII far as I know. It was welded up so badly, I easily removed the crossmember, moved it back an inch (the front wheels were too far forward for the body) and lowered it an inch and is now just tacked in for mock-up. I do have the original front and rear strut bars; they were never attached. I could use a picture of how they are positioned if someone has one.
Here are some updated pics showing the engine and trans mounts in. Thanks, techinspector, for the advice on the headers, had to carve off some more frame!
Last pic shows how not to make a shock mount!

If you’re talking about the brake reaction struts these are how mine are on my 37. I bought the truck with the (aftermarket) MII front end already under it but they had bolted on worn out original parts. The pictures are from when I rebuilt the front end and added 11” brakes and ride height adjusters.

FE1 by M Patterson, on Flickr


FE2 by M Patterson, on Flickr


FE3 by M Patterson, on Flickr


The rear bracket location will be kind of critical as the rod needs to be centered in the hole and the right distance to be centered on the bushings when they are full compressed. This will need to be done with the suspension at ride height with the springs compress as they will be with the full weight of the car on them (i.e. drive train, sheet metal etc).



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Speedway sells some brackets if you don't want to make your own. They make this tubular strut rod kit that has 2 brackets and would be better IMO.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...-Kit,2110.html

Like Tech said, it really looks like your upper arm mounts are level. It actually should have at least 4* anti dive but a lot of rod builders prefer 8*, some like even more but it really depends on a lot of variables.

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I see what you mean on the upper mounts, I'll correct that. Here is a pic of the strut arms that came with the car, but not mounted.
Also, I have seen tubular lower arms that say don't require a strut but require mods to the mounts.