Thread: You guys are the worst

Tweet

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Newly built engine, so no. RPM doesn't seem to be a factor. Goes away instantly if I let off gas. Might be worth looking at.

And the way you've been finding those other "rebuilt/restored" things... yes, I'd be checking.

Originally Posted by 34_40

And the way you've been finding those other "rebuilt/restored" things... yes, I'd be checking.

Oh My! That brings back memories of the used car lot just outside the main gate at NAS Corpus Christi where they would cut up old baseball gloves, belts, or anything else made of leather and line the main & rod bearings, then fill the crankcase with a 50/50 mix of heavy oil and STP. Those engines sounded great......... for about 500 miles. They didn't let anyone take an unescorted test drive for some reason.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

If it's carbureted you might want to check the floats.

Also, when they put the new carburetor on it they may not have jetted it to the motor, a lean jetting condition will surge with power applied. As will a dirty fuel filter.

Yesterday the headlight buckets arrived, very nice quality. Also, I discovered that the issue with the grille inserts chrome wasn't what I thought. It appears that the entire insert was chromed, then a satin finish was applied, leaving a chrome trim on the edges. So, I grabbed some solvent and stripped off all the satin finish from the bottom. Then a polish with Mothers, and it looks much better. I also polished the fog light frames and washed the lenses.

The nose looks pretty good now.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Then a polish with Mothers, and it looks much better. I also polished the fog light frames and washed the lenses.

The nose looks pretty good now.

You know there is a penalty ( to be assessed later ) for teasing us WITHOUT PICTURES!

Originally Posted by 34_40

You know there is a penalty ( to be assessed later ) for teasing us WITHOUT PICTURES!

Like this idea, Mike?
-
useless_without_pics_2.gif.jpg

Nailed it!!!

......

Sigh. Can't seem to get my new phone to cooperate.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Sigh. Can't seem to get my new phone to cooperate.

For CHR I generally email the images to myself from my phone, save them to the laptop, reduce their size with PAINT, then post. I find posting pictures from the phone harder on CHR than other sites but I expect it's easier than I make it.... Maybe I need to ask one of the grandkids how to do it!

Today I pulled the window trim. It looked like at least one of the plastic clips was old, and had failed. Thus the trim pulling loose in the car wash. I removed all the plastic clips and replaced them with steel clips. The trim was cleaned up on my pedestal buffer. I can't seem to get the glow of new chrome, maybe not the right buff compounds, maybe not the right touch. Anyway, they are much improved, and back in place. The best news is that the window channels are perfect, and windows installed well.

Another electrical gremlins revealed itself.

I had wondered why the positive battery cable aux wire had been routed directly to the alternator. It doesn't seem to be a high amp alternator, so I figured it had been done by someone who doesn't fully understand the charging system.

Anyway I decided to use the aux wire for the battery tender plug, which I routed to the lower air duct and zip tied to the frame horn.

Then I found out why they did it: I had no power without it!

I know the harness gets power from the starter, so something must be amiss there, my guess is a fusible link. I hate those things. Some time back I read an explanation on how in some subtle way they are better than a fuse, but I forget the why.

Attempting to reset the proportioning valve was in vain. So I have a new one on order. Getting a factory correct part would be limited to a used one, apparently why it was ghd one thing in the brake system not replaced.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Attempting to reset the proportioning valve was in vain. So I have a new one on order. Getting a factory correct part would be limited to a used one, apparently why it was ghd one thing in the brake system not replaced.

You're probably on top of it, but I was totally confused about how the Wilwood proportioning valve worked, and how it was adjusted, and I was surprised when I read the details - " The knob rotated all the way out (counter-clockwise) will provide a maximum pressure reduction to the back brakes of 57%. Rotating the knob in (clockwise) will incrementally increase line pressure to the back brakes, up to full pressure, equal to the front brakes." I had it bass-ackwards!

The shiny new brass prop valve installed like a stock part, perfect. However, the master cylinder is not as fresh as it appeared, it is leaking out the weep hole in the back. Neither was the booster replaced, so both are on order.

Just out of curiosity I tore down the old prop valve, no surprises. The spool was rusted in place, and lots of gunk.

Be glad you can do your own work, reasons. You know it will be done correctly, and the owner is usually (for the most part) the best mech.

The new master cylinder and booster are in. What enginerd decided it was a good idea to make the booster mount bolts so dadgummed long? Thank God for ratcheting wrenches. I'm super excited, this time I did something I've always wanted to do, but never made it happen previously. I painted the master cylinder, the color of cast iron. The rattle can color is "cast-blast". The prop valve bracket I painted "cranberry", it is the closest I found to the burgundy the car is painted. It's not a perfect match, but I guess close enough for under the hood.