-
04-26-2004 08:07 PM #1
best ford rear end for installing in 1938 sedan
I just purchased a 38 sedan. I have a TCI, IFS fot it, a 350,350 chev motor and trans and I'm going to use a leaf spring set up for the rear. My question for you all is which is the best rear end(ford) to use for this car?Atinner
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
04-26-2004 08:13 PM #2
The 9" Ford of course.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
04-26-2004 08:21 PM #3
9" has a lot of gear ratios to select from."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
-
04-26-2004 08:55 PM #4
What do you guys think of the later model 8.8 out of the ranger?Atinner
-
04-26-2004 08:57 PM #5
Just to go for a counter flow, since I've done a couple of them, whoever you get the rear spring setup from will have some suggestions. Typically they have the same spacing as an 8" from a V8 Maverick, 56" drum face to drum face. Some are also made to take a Nova 10 bolt, 57-8" depending on year. Yeah, not as many ratio choices with the 8" but good enough for what it sounds like you're doing, and there's no modification necessary, it's a bolt in.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
-
04-26-2004 09:29 PM #6
I agree with Bob. The 8 inch would be the way to go. There is one other 56 inch though. The one out of a Mustang II V-8. And some of them even came with Equal Loc.Duane S
____________________________________
On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust
-
04-27-2004 10:18 AM #7
'95 and up Explorer 8.8"
Strong
Cheap
Plentiful
Factory 11" discs
Factory posi
Factory 3.55 or 3.73 gears
Solves e-brake problems
31 spline axles
Do a search on this, it's been discussed at length. I have one under my '36 Chevy with a triangulated 4-bar.Richard T. Gautier
Gautier, MS
1936 Chevy 2 dr sedan (Turbo Buick Powered!)
Click the WWW button for pics
2003 Chevy Avalanche w/o body hardware (black, of course)
2003 Chevy Trailblazer (also black)
-
05-01-2004 06:57 PM #8
What do they usually go for SinistrV6?
-
05-01-2004 07:00 PM #9
I bought mine w/o posi (trac-loc) from a 2001 Explorer with 48k miles for $250. Bought a trac-loc unit on eBay for $75.Richard T. Gautier
Gautier, MS
1936 Chevy 2 dr sedan (Turbo Buick Powered!)
Click the WWW button for pics
2003 Chevy Avalanche w/o body hardware (black, of course)
2003 Chevy Trailblazer (also black)
-
05-01-2004 08:20 PM #10
I have an 8.8" in my ranger and it's a good little axle. Of course, if I had my drothers I'd go for a 9". The 8.8" stock has good torque to it.If it ain't broke, improve it...
-
05-01-2004 08:20 PM #11
I have an 8.8" in my ranger and it's a good little axle. Of course, if I had my drothers I'd go for a 9". The 8.8" stock has good torque to it.If it ain't broke, improve it...
-
05-02-2004 05:38 PM #12
I found a wrecking yard near here that has a pile of 9" fords he says that he'll sell for $100.00 each. What is the best way to tell if it's a true 9" ? I haven't worked much on fords so excuse the dumb question. If anyone has a pic or numbers it would be appreciated.
-
05-03-2004 04:30 AM #13
Junkyard checking for a 9" can be done two ways, read the info on the tag if it is still there on one of the studs that bolt the center section to the housing. Another way to tell an 8" from a 9" ford is on a 9" there are two of the nuts that connect the center section to the housing have to be removed with a wrench and can not be accessed with a socket. These two nuts are on the bottom of the assembly. On an 8", all the nuts are accessible with a socket.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
05-03-2004 09:14 PM #14
Very cool, thanks Dave I will check it out tomorrow AM, I hope that it's a posi too, that would be cool.
-
05-03-2004 09:28 PM #15
Good luck with your 9" rear search. It's reputation speaks for itself. Especially if cost is no object. Even if you buy one for $100 from a wrecking yard, by the time you rebuild it, put a posi in it (or rebuild the one it's got), narrow it, put disc brakes on it and buy new axles for the narrowed housing you'll have somewhere between $1000 and $1700 in it.
That's why I suggested the Explorer 8.8". It's plenty strong (the upgrade to 31 spline axles is one of the few the Mustang guys have to do to make it live in 10 second drag cars). Supposedly it also has less rotational resistance than a 9".
Unless you're putting 800rwhp to it, I'm not sure the additional expense is justified.
Just my .02
If you do look through those 9" rears, I think the '79 Lincoln Versailles is about the right width and has factory disc brakes. Search this site. It's all been covered before.Richard T. Gautier
Gautier, MS
1936 Chevy 2 dr sedan (Turbo Buick Powered!)
Click the WWW button for pics
2003 Chevy Avalanche w/o body hardware (black, of course)
2003 Chevy Trailblazer (also black)
Welcome to Club Hot Rod! The premier site for
everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more.
- » Members from all over the US and the world!
- » Help from all over the world for your questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now! p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
Ok gang. It's been awhile. With everything that was going on taking care of my mom's affairs and making a few needed mods to the Healey, it was June before anything really got rolling on this...
My Little Red Muscle Truck