Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Well done Bob, I am assuming there is a certain geometry that is needed for the suspension to work properly? Is this to assure the right amount of suspension travel?

Brick still in the learning process here . I will need to ask that question when i finally decide to shock it . I did run the drive parallel with 3 degrees down on engine and 3 degrees up on rear end .

But we did some moving on it today body has been pulled and i found the
vin # which does match the title and this gave me a relief. We used some 3 pulley blocks i picked up at HF and used 4x4 across body for lift went up very easy . We removed crossmember and brkts . Started wire brushing it down . The frame is not pitted hardly at all . We'll give it a good 3 inch on elec grinder then a light sand blast for prime .
Have to pick up stock to build the k member and trans mount and reinforce the frame. I have seen drive shaft loops installed so i guess this is a good idea for safety.

I need a second garage this one is packed with two cars and parts .

Big question is i notice the trans mount to bell housing has a list to the left.
I dont see extra holes and its mounted in . Does anyone know why it is like this .You can see it in last pic .

Some are rotated that way, suppose it was maybe for a tunnel fit issue or something... Can't really give you any technical reason, I guess....As long as the engine is level, can't see where it would be an issue with anything...

Dave thanks was causing me to tilt my head looking at it. As long as its normal i have no trouble with it . Never seen any like it allways square with the block . Engine bubble is between the lines , i think i over worked getting it there trying to be perfect with out useing the phrase Good Enough .

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave thanks was causing me to tilt my head looking at it. As long as its normal i have no trouble with it . Never seen any like it allways square with the block . Engine bubble is between the lines , i think i over worked getting it there trying to be perfect with out useing the phrase Good Enough .

I had one sat the same crooked way in a V-8 Ranger I did for a guy a couple years ago. Still working fine, just looks like somebody goofed!!!!!

Maybe it's a Monday or Friday bellhousing.

I'm sure there was some good reason for building the tranny at a twist, just don't have a clue what it would be!!!!!

The bell housing is square drilled . Its the actual trans the drilled at a angle . Like dave says had to be a clearence reason for it . Have to keep it in mind so i dont angle the floor LOL ;

"I knew D'em fords where a little twisted..or is that the owners!!" J/k, that is a different looking tranny thats for sure.

Originally Posted by brickman

"I knew D'em fords where a little twisted..or is that the owners!!" J/k, that is a different looking tranny thats for sure.

Yup, both!!!!

I have a body mount question? I am mounting the body on my "Z". I am using only the body panels (No inner panels). There isn't much support for the top/sail panel area, so I added a couple ''roof to cage'' mounts . (See pics.) It's a mild steel chassis. I went to tech last week and looked around and I saw cars with roof mounts - some without. Steel body & fiberglass.
My question, do you think this will work or will I run into problems with chassis flex. My thought is these are connected to the main hoop. I don't want the roof to buckle. Most of the chassis flex should be forward of the main hoop? Am I wrong? These are the only roof mounts the others are rocker panels door striker, door hinges, firewall, rear body panel. Also, the panel under the rear window is flimzy, so I planned to run braces up from the cage supports that pass about 3" below the window and connect to the rear frame rails. Any help would be appreciated. This being my first race car it's a learn as i go build.
I will make the brackets look purdy' once I take the body off for the final welding & paint.

Brick my head is twisted from looking at tranny so i put some blocks under one side of chair to compensate .

Pro i thought i had a delima with just the basic stuff . I know cars twist but that power has to be really configured into frame and body. Sounds like if some have it and some dont it will work for you either way . Your pro Z will twist harder at cowl and forward right. So i woudn't think it would hurt there in the sail .

I've had the best luck mounting the body solid at the hinge points of the doors and the rear quarters from the main hoop and rear frame rail, then mounting the cowl off the forward hoop. The roof panel I usually let float on pads mounted off the 4 corners of the cage. I've braced the panel behind the back window and the B pillar off the down tubes from the main hoop, and use this as a support for the roof.

Ahhhh Finally got my wife convinced to toss out that 305... It cost me an old truck though... Its ok though. The truck was losing frame due to car cancer, the floor pans were one good stomp from being fred flinstones(the carpet was the only thing keeping foot from ground). in fact the only thing that was good in that thing was the engine and transmission. Even the rear end had serious issues. When I gave it a little more power, snapped the u-joint and heard nasty noises coming from the pumpkin(and I didn't give it that much extra power... I'm not that good). Sooo I have this 350/350 combo that would either sit in the truck while I replaced the frame, floorpans, rearend, suspension, etc... or it gets built for my wife's firebird... She finally convinced me to get rid of the truck after she said I could pull the motor and I get more funds to play with...

Bluestang and Dave, Don't let any body kid you about that twisted tranny mouting being a Ford thing, They are rotated even more on GM with the same trans. Hank