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Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...
          
   
   

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  1. #2071
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Dave Cam is looking good.

    Ok i think i see a pattern i can do Dave 4 day week end coming up i should have it mocked in. Ill get some pics here before i final weld . Im useing 1 1/2 inch stock, do you think 1 inch stock will work just for the X bracing or should i stay the same .

  2. #2072
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The 1" would be fine, plenty strong enough and a size smaller would be nice esthetically...
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  3. #2073
    halftanked is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dave,the curvature of your templates kind of look like 73-77 malibu sail panels,wonder if they'd graft in and give you a preformed lip to mount the glass? I'm actually surprised you didn't put a Mustang fastback roof on it. Hank

  4. #2074
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    Brick trimming boxing plates around bracing is more but not too much . I did my motor mount this way . But now im seeing where a gusset to frame would be supplemental to spreading weight thru out height of rail . I did weld gusset on the inside of frame rail to mount for added strength .
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    Last edited by bluestang67; 04-05-2007 at 08:02 AM.

  5. #2075
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by halftanked
    Dave,the curvature of your templates kind of look like 73-77 malibu sail panels,wonder if they'd graft in and give you a preformed lip to mount the glass? I'm actually surprised you didn't put a Mustang fastback roof on it. Hank
    I've got a shrinker/stretcher, forming the window lip is no problem. Mustang roof line would have gotten too far back into what is now the deck lid and creating an entirely different set of problems!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  6. #2076
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    Bob, I'm not sure if I posted these pictures for you before or not.........if I did, sorry.

    I see you are using a Model A frame, so did I under my '27. I boxed it with 3/16 flat stock, and used Speedway crossmembers for the motor mounts and also the tranny mount (also running a sbf like you) Then I fabbed up a K member setup to take out any tendency to twist. Frame is very solid and does not move.

    The reason I like using the Speedway type crossmembers is that every 2 feet or so you have some kind of crossmember tying the two rails together, makes for a very ridged setup.

    Just thought these might help you out.


    Don
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  7. #2077
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    Don thanks i do remember it now . This is still a rough mock . The short braces on the right i will bring up from the lower section of rail . The level will be a cross brace at rear tieing the two back 45s together and the X member will be a removable section as dave had mentioned . I hope im not over killing but that is the tendacy i have when building .

    The brace under trans is a temp just holding it up .

    Ok off to make the Donuts
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  8. #2078
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    That should work, no such thing as overkill on that light of a car unless you were going to make the floor out of 1/2" plate!!!! Looks good to me, whatcha think, Don?
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  9. #2079
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    Don at work i kept thinking how good the engine mount is . My idea was i can drop oil pan with out any interference, i dont know now if that was a good thing or bad . I guess i'm allways open for changes untill final paint and i'll probable say oops i forgot that .

  10. #2080
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    When I built the panel truck I made a removable cross member for the motor mount. I switched to carrera coil overs not long after this pic. but the motor mount stayed. I had the engine settin' high in the engine compartment as you can tell by the stilts it sat on. All in the name of weight transfer.
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    Last edited by pro70z28; 04-06-2007 at 06:18 AM.
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  11. #2081
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    That should work, no such thing as overkill on that light of a car unless you were going to make the floor out of 1/2" plate!!!! Looks good to me, whatcha think, Don?

    Yeah, I think it looks good. Overengineering is something we homebuilders all do, and probably it is a good thing. I look at some of the manufactured components you buy and the brackets and all just look flimsy to me, but evidently they work.

    Don

  12. #2082
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Yeah, I think it looks good. Overengineering is something we homebuilders all do, and probably it is a good thing. I look at some of the manufactured components you buy and the brackets and all just look flimsy to me, but evidently they work.

    Don
    Me too, Don. I usually end up gusseting or otherwise reinforcing most of the pieces I buy, especially the suspension pieces... I guess maybe I tend to pound on my stuff a bit more then most, but a Hot Rod has to be fast, too. Either that or they're designed for chebbie powered stuff, and the big horse Fords are just too much for them!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  13. #2083
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    Well then they should put a warning label on those parts........FOR CHEVY USE ONLY.


    (I think you just lit the fuse Dave )


    Don

  14. #2084
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Well then they should put a warning label on those parts........FOR CHEVY USE ONLY.


    (I think you just lit the fuse Dave )


    Don
    Me? Not me!!!! I would never do that!!!

    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  15. #2085
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    I read a thread that was a few years old where Heidts front end bungs where cracking and I did decide to gusset them . They did redesign them with equal arms and not the offset style they did have . They stick out a long way where control arms connect to them . If i keep putting steel in the A it will weigh in about #4300 when im done . . In another hand it may help modern suspension work better in ride quality .

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