Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Can't I would say Bob, so here is what I know for sure: New fuel filter, new holley 650 single feed/vac sec, distributor has 1000 miles on it. All I have set on the carb is the idle. It sits on an air gap duel plane manifold. I just bought a timing light but I am wondering where it should be set, not a stock cam.

Hey DennyW, I consider everyones opinion very seriously and I always have, please don't ever think that your not welcome to help anytime. Takes a tribe to teach I believe.

It is not doing anything wrong until I nail it hard, at any speed. It is worse from a dead stop, it won't do anything but die. If I run her up to about 3000 or 3500 in low and nail it there it dies. If I just slowly let her build it will rev but very flat and dyes bad close to 4800 rpm which is probly reving her to high.

Originally Posted by DennyW

ps: Bob, I was simply giving my opinion, same as you. So, prove it to me it's not a float problem ?

Like you my attempt was to make sure Tony was thorough in his evaluation since his first explanation was modest and not everyone understands WOT in the same context without further reference. However, I'll point out you took the first shot here, so keep that in mind when talking about being polite. As for proving it's the floats, that's up to Tony, I don't pretend to know it all, especially at long distance. As for needing anything else from you I can do my own Google searches thank you.

Originally Posted by DennyW

As far as a google search, what's your point there Bob ??

This will be my last reply on this as I'm sure all this is just too exciting for the room.

Nothin' wrong with using Google, great resource, do it myself, though I try to do it as links so the original author "gets credit" rather than me. When I see you taking attaboys for something like the following that, based on syntax, spelling, and punctuation isn't like most of your posts, it just makes me wonder............

Originally Posted by DennyW

See if this helps some. My engine was rated at 330 hp. Average was about 12 mpg. After I reworked it, I now have 575 braking horse power, and with the 780 cfm carb, get 15 mpg. The difference between the stock horse power to the new, plus, the increase in mpg, is much more efficient. So, I have increased my thermal efficiency. And the greater the amount of air-fuel mixture, the greater the power produced by the engine.


2 main factors. We talk about this all the time, infiguring braking horse power, and engine horse power.

The term efficiency means the relationship between the actual and theoretical power output. Volumetric efficiency is the ratio between the amount of air-fuel mixture that actually enters the cylinder and the amount that could enter under ideal conditions. The greater volumetric efficiency, the greater the amount of air-fuel mixture entering the cylinder.

Increasing volumetric efficiency increases engine performance. Volumetric efficiency can be increasedin the following ways: Keep the intake mixture cool by ducting intake air from outside the engine compartment. By keeping the fuel cool, you can keep the intake mixture cooler. The cooler the mixture, the higher the volumetric efficiency. This is because a cool mixture is denser or more tightly packed. Modify the intake passages. Changes to the intake passages that make it easier for the mixture to flow through will increase the volumetric efficiency. Other changes include reshaping ports to smooth bends, reshaping the back of the valve heads, or polishing the inside of the ports. Altering the time that the valves open or how far they open can increase volumetric efficiency. By supercharging and turbocharging, you can bring the volumetric efficiency figures to over 100 percent.

MECHANICAL EFFICIENCY is the relationship between the actual power produced in the engine (indicated horsepower) and the actual power delivered at the crankshaft (brake horsepower). The actual power is always less than the power produced within the engine. This is due to the following: Friction losses between the many moving parts of the engine. In a four-stroke-cycle engine, a considerable amount of horsepower is used to drive the valve train. From a mechanical efficiency standpoint, you can tell what percentage of power developed in the cylinder is actually delivered by the engine. The remaining percentage of power is consumed by friction, and it is computed as frictional horsepower (fhp).

THERMAL EFFICIENCY is the relationship between actual heat energy stored within the fuel and power produced in the engine (indicated horsepower). The thermal efficiency figure indicates the amount of potential energy contained in the fuel that is actually used by the engine to produce power and what amount of energy is actually lost through heat. A large amount of energy from the fuel is lost through heat and not used in an internal combustion engine. This unused heat is of no value to the engine and must be removed from it. Heat is dissipated in the following ways: The cooling system removes heat from the engine to control engine operating temperature. A major portion of the heat produced by the engine exits through the exhaust system. The engine radiates a portion of the heat to the atmosphere.

Simple term, packing more in, and making it more explosive, will increase the output.

I think 90% of the diagnostics over the computer is little more then an educated guess. It gives the man a good place to start looking for a problem, but without being there and hearing/feeling the problem. Heck, I've been doing this hot rod stuff for 40 years......but I see no reason to get all upset if someone disagrees with a diagnosis and suggests something else.... As I mentioned, at best you can get the man with the problem looking in the right place, anyway... Float, filter, big deal. At least he's looking at the carb. If one isn't bad, check the other. This isn't a contest, and no prizes are given and I doubt anyone keeps score...

Shawnlee just read a article in Hot Rod where they used Rustolem and rolled it on . They used a early Falcon did the body work and started rolling on paint. They did if i remember 6 coats and did a little sanding in between them . Like you said it's not a ridler paint job but for the $100 or so they spent they had a 6 footer now that is not bad . Final was a wet sand and buff and true its some good enamal paint .

Yeah,Rustoleum can be great stuff,We threw some on a stock car, with a roller,just to get it all one color,and we were amazed at how it just flowed out,and the gloss was good. Ended up leaving it that way for the season.Hank

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

This will be my last reply on this as I'm sure all this is just too exciting for the room.

Originally Posted by DennyW

This is also my last reply to you on this Bob.

Glad you both can end this disagreement in an adult manner. Now we can get back to the meat of the thread

I thank you all for your help, I am going in after the carb first, checking float level and then the pump to make sure I am getting a good shot. Then on to the timing and distributor looking for loosness and gap. I am not sure of the timing right this second but I will know by days end and let you all know, once again thanks now will see what is there.

Okay, here is where I stand tonight, the float levels were a hair low and the pump adjustment on the accelarator was loose so I tightened it up and turned it so it would pump more gas sooner. First time I have timed the car and I am not sure now how my bud's timed it, I can't see the mark on the balancer at all the way it is set up, I can find it almost on the other side. This is very strange. Does a 76 350 time from the top or the drivers side, mine is on the drivers side. So I didn't change the timing and went to test it and my right rear shock came off along with the mount. When it rains it pours so no test tonight.

Got the CNC part done for the door hinges. Still got some drillin', Filin', sandin', weldin',buffin' & lathe work to do & they'll B done. Then it's time to make the doors "slam".

Hope you get it all ironed out Brick.

Brick not too bad just a slight set back you can remedy quicky. Hope you get the driveability fixed soon . That sometimes takes the fun out when you cant burn a quick gallon .

Didn't like the weight of the hood on the Merc, heavy fiberglass panels when hinged like a hood or door get to be a booger to keep adjusted so I decided to cut it down. What was the bottom of the hood is now glassed into the fenders, 6" of the back of the hood is now an addition to the cowl. The hood will now be considerably lighter and won't require a bunch of ugly reinforcement so I'll be able to finish off the inside of the hood panel, too.....

Anyway, next on the agenda is the grille. Building a tubular one out of 5/16" round tubing. Also today, got started on the package shelf. It is a piece of 3/4" plywood that will be glassed into the back of the car below the rear window and add a bunch of strength to the rear section of the car.

Progress has been good, though slow. Hope to have it all in primer and running some time this week and catch a few get togethers gefore it goes in for final paint and interior.... Then it's time to start incorporating all these changes into the molds and maybe actually go into production some day.....

Hopefully everything works out on the car, it's generated a lot of interest and I'd like to think that some day we could write some orders and recoup some of the money we have invested in the project so far....

Glad to see you got the cover off Dave. Car looks good i cant even imagine the time and work it takes to build one. Merc's are in demand and prodution of this model should move for you. I think you'll need a bigger shop and more property . If my plant ever closes i hope you take on help.