Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Oooohhhhhhhhhhh nooooooooooooo

Brickman, my buddy is going to disagree with me on this but I would not cut half rungs off the springs. If you measure the full lenght of the spring and then measure the spring lessl 1 rung or 2 you should come real close to knowing how much You will lower it. Their is a pocket in the upper and lower control arm where the spring sets. I would cut the spring with a cutoff wheel and not a torch. I suppose if You did cut a half rung off it would still lock in the pocket on the lower control arm but if thats all thats needed why did the factory put the pocket in the upper control arm? If You do use any heat with a torch be very careful .It can get away from You real fast and then ride like a dumptruck. I cut 1 rung off all 4 of my springs but have not put the chassis back under the car yet. I feel like with my situation it will drop me down 1&3/4 to 2 inches. Yours could be totally different.Good Luck!

It seems to make alot of sense to me riverhorse, the truck does have pronounced perches for the springs. I am thinking I may cut just one rung, the springs are very large and one well probly drop it three inches. That should be plenty to get the look I am after, later on in the year it is going to get tubbed and 4-linked.

Increase the rate huh Tech? Would that make it stiffer than stock? I can handle that, the big block makes it dive under hard braking now as it is. I have a 1 1/4'' front sway bar for it also. It's all kind of my first attempt at a pro street transformation. Any help is apreciated.

I lowered a Galaxie ('64 if I remember right) with a torch and a tape measure many years ago. Just heated the coils near the bottom and let the weight of the car drop 'em. Heat then measure repeat as ness. to get it even.

Hey ................ I wuz' just a kid ................... what did I know. Ride stiffened up some, but it looked kewl............... HEHEHE

Originally posted by pro70z28
I lowered a Galaxie ('64 if I remember right) with a torch and a tape measure many years ago. Just heated the coils near the bottom and let the weight of the car drop 'em. Heat then measure repeat as ness. to get it even.

Hey ................ I wuz' just a kid ................... what did I know. Ride stiffened up some, but it looked kewl............... HEHEHE

done that a lot of times when in herry. if you put a block of wood under each conner of the chasses, however low you wont it to go, (like 4" off of the floor) heat the springs untill the car sits down on the blocks then waite until the springs cools off, then take the blocks out, the car will stay the height off of the floor as the blocks was.

That almost sounds TOO easy! I like easy though! To just heat the springs is ovious that they will loose some tension and it is sure alot easier than taking the front end apart, cutting the coils and putting it all back together. Save alot as in hours of work, I will try it, the worst that can happen is that I will have to change the springs if they get ruined. Thanks pro and lt1s10, that is great advice. I will let you know how it turns out.

Originally posted by brickman
That almost sounds TOO easy! I like easy though! To just heat the springs is ovious that they will loose some tension and it is sure alot easier than taking the front end apart, cutting the coils and putting it all back together. Save alot as in hours of work, I will try it, the worst that can happen is that I will have to change the springs if they get ruined. Thanks pro and lt1s10, that is great advice. I will let you know how it turns out.

about 2 " is all you need to drop it though because by leaving all of the spring there it dont have as much travel as it would have if you cut it. drop it 2" first and then look at it and use the blocks. if you dont you cant control how low the springs go

And brickman I'm sure you already know this but be sure to heat a coil down @ the bottom, not in the middle of the spring. Sounds elementary I know, but I've learned to never take basic things for granted. ALWAYS gets me in trouble when i do.
Problee' won't find this technique in any dealer bulletins. HEHEHE

Originally posted by pro70z28
And brickman I'm sure you already know this but be sure to heat a coil down @ the bottom, not in the middle of the spring. Sounds elementary I know, but I've learned to never take basic things for granted. ALWAYS gets me in trouble when i do.
Problee' won't find this technique in any dealer bulletins. HEHEHE

i thought i read that in a GM serv. manual somewhere.

I lowered a 47 Merc coupe that way. Heated the ends of the main leaf and reversed the spring eyes. It melted the bushings but they're cheaper than a dropped axle.



I got the engine painted and installed in the Stang before I went on vacation. Took a picture today but everything is dusty. I don't know why the shock tower looks silver in the picture it's really semi gloss black like the other side. That isn't paint on the fuel pump either. It must be the flash playing tricks.
I need another hood for the Stang. Mine was bent when one of the hinges froze. I straghtened it out and reinforced the bottom. I thought I did a good job with the bodywork. You can't see where it was bent but when I put it on there was a 1/2 inch gap on that side near the fender. It's good swap meet material. I wanted a fiberglass Shelby GT350 hood anyway.

Originally posted by lt1s10
i thought i read that in a GM serv. manual somewhere.

I think it wuz' on page 387.

Cool, thanks, I will consult my collection of service manuals!!

I will heat them just at the bottom and I will use the blocks. I will post a pic. The motor and new tranny will be going back in tomorrow so the wieght will be back on the springs. I am looking forward to seeing how it's gonna look and handle. If it doesn't work, I can always buy another set and cut them and put them in. Thanks everybody.

Originally posted by brickman
Cool, thanks, I will consult my collection of service manuals!!

I will heat them just at the bottom and I will use the blocks. I will post a pic. The motor and new tranny will be going back in tomorrow so the wieght will be back on the springs. I am looking forward to seeing how it's gonna look and handle. If it doesn't work, I can always buy another set and cut them and put them in. Thanks everybody.

if it works i told you how, if it dont work pro70 told you how.

Originally posted by lt1s10
if it works i told you how, if it dont work pro70 told you how.

Hey.... I just read about it on page 387. HEHEHE

results may vary
caution: HOT
take only as directed
read and follow all label directions..............
Good night Mrs. Clahan .......................... wherever you are.

Originally posted by pro70z28
Hey.... I just read about it on page 387. HEHEHE

show me.