Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Camoflage;

Ireland if we all add up our labor and then devide profit we probably make about 13 cents a hour total . In my case i would just chalk it up to a good fab experience and education . Do like doing those things so i wouldn't be concerned to much about labor just the fun .

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Well the '32 tanks do look great and I guess I was not aware of where to get them when I worked out the rumble-seat tank. And yes the space underneath is a big gap.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
At this point on your car, to add a '32 style tank would be a big undertaking that would, in my humble opinion not have any real aesthetic/mechanical payback. I only found out about it by seeing a car at a show with the mod - then went back and found a Street Rodder article. While it can be done with the body in place, much more sucessful assembly and welds can be made with it off and the chassis at stripped so it can be accessed from all directions - including turning it over. I, like most occasional welders, don't do well with overhead welds. See the picture ('nother one)

(Please note - I cleaned my shop that day for pictures - that ain't necessarily the normal condition)

I like the idea of the rolled pan and a shiny battery box - there are several drop down designs commercially available. The rolled pan will give it a finished look and a lot of your fancy shocks will still be seen and shine right next to the suspension. Then the Lone Wolf plate..... I'm hiding most of my rear TCI Chrome and SS pieces with a tank and fenders.

Here is what i thought was a kit for about the same cost as saddle . Confusing add though they show covers in pic but add i dont think includes them .


http://www.tperformance.com/street_r...932_fuel_tank/

Two good ideas. Actually I am already on the second set of holes for the battery box having lowered it for clamp clearance, but Bob's idea might be the easiest. Actually some sort of less-than-shiny battery cover with a suitable agnostic verse as Bob suggests might be the best idea. Maybe with this help I can end up with something that looks less bad after all. Thanks! Just for the record the internal rumble seat tank cost about $600 from Rock Valley and I went to one gauge thicker than their usual tank, all for added protection from a rear end collision. Still the pictures above show that the Model A gap can be filled very nicely with the '32 style tank.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

While Dave has shown that it can be done at home, for those that might be interested there is also a "pre-fabbed" version available;
http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/gas%20tank%20kits.htm

Bob,
I copied, in a general sense the Dagle setup - as noted in my earlier post. They just didn't have one for the "new" design TCI frame at the time so I got my welder, tape measure and sawzall out and got 'creative'.

Bobby,
You have to sometimes read between the lines with Total Performance - personal experience. They also can be 'a price leader'

I listed the individual pieces, again in my earlier post. If you do go this way, I suggest that you get either a 12 gal OEM repro or the 15 gallon version. The 17 gallon version gave me some ground clearance problems(1.5" lower) and I had to exchange it for the 15. If you are using horn covers, that, IMO, the 15 gal is the best way to go - who cares what the sides of the tank look like - they're covered. You want 3-4 more gallons of capacity. The frame horn repair sections are also too long and need to be modified for length. I should have my tank in the frame in a few days - it's painted but needs cutting and buffing first. I'll take a bunch more pictures and put them in a folder.

Ireland like you i think i'll do my own frame work . You pic has given me ideas to mod for my frame set up . I seen a great article on making your own frame horns and not to complicated so i will save a few more dollars . Thanks for all this info and please post more pics of it when you take them .

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Ireland like you i think i'll do my own frame work . You pic has given me ideas to mod for my frame set up . I seen a great article on making your own frame horns and not to complicated so i will save a few more dollars . Thanks for all this info and please post more pics of it when you take them .

The 10ga repair frame horns are cheap ($50-$60) - but the rest of the mod parts tend to get up in price.

Well, I wasted some more time on my pickup. Decide I should have an H-pipe in my exhaust. I'm building the whole exhaust system out of some mandrel bends and straight pieces of aluminized 2 1/2" tubing. Well, I looked at a few sources and decided that $100.00+ was waaaaay to much to pay for an H-Pipe. I got out my trusty 2 1/2" whole saw and made up some really low buck fixtures and here's the results. I have a total of about 3 hours of my time, including coffee breaks and time spent playing with the dog along with some leftover pieces of tubing that were laying on the floor by the bench.... Oh yeah, they're easy to build, but don't let some half blind old geezer like me do the welding on them!!!!! Mig welding by the Braille method is really tough!!!!!!!

Now when I get the rest of the system installed, all I have to do is determine the length of the tubing that goes between the two "T" pieces, cut it to length and weld it in. No idea if it will make much noticeable improvement in power or sound, but it was something to kill a few hours with on a Friday afternoon in the shop!!!!

Don't laugh at my welds, someday you'll be a half blind geezer, too!!!!!!!

out of site out of mind , and nothing that can't be cleaned up Dave . If it weren't for grinding wheels i'd be in alot of trouble . I would weld till i know there not going to leak . How many pounds is this roll of wire again.

MIG = MY ITS GLOPPY

And I thought I was the only one that made pigeon dropping MIG welds on H pipes

(I'm even older and blinder then Dave S )

Explain again the benefit of all this labor on this pipe for your trk Dave? I am just curious what this pipe does, no offense intended.

It is supposed to help even out the flow in the exhaust and allegedly improve the torque. Don't know, never ran one before. Just thought I'd give it a try....

Originally Posted by DennyW

Plus give it a little better tone.

Never had one before, do they actually help with the torque, too????? Or just make them sound nice? Either is fine with me, I guess but both would be great!!!!!