Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

Tweet

everyones welds look better than i could do
i go with the idea , you dont have to be a good welder , just be a better grinder

yup, with the right grinding and sanding, then some good paint, even my yucky old welds look good... Sure am glad Bill is such a good welder, I can't see a thing welding anymore----come to think of it, can't see much when I'm not welding!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by DennyW

Yes, it actually works Dave. H is going on my 34 also.

Ever seen any real numbers on torque gain with an H-pipe???? Some of the advertised stuff is a bit exaggerated, I'm sure.... Big thing with the pickup, I'm kind of limited on where I can put the crossover in---are there any hard and fast rules on how far back from the engine they work best????? The engine is a 351W-HO, they are a good engine, but more torque without sacrificing driveability would be nice!!!!

David Vizzard sayes from dyno testing ........100 percentg chance of about 2to 3 db less exaust noise and anywhere from 0 to 12 hp dependind on the set up.100 percent shure is quiets it down a few db and makes it sound alot better and anybodies bet on whether your combo will respond with 0 -12 hp....,but he goes on to say ,he has never ever seen it hurt hp or make the exaust louder ,in his words ,...its a win win ,with nothing to lose.!!!

Dave,I was told a way to locate your pipe. Take a lumber marker and draw a straight line down the inside of both pipes,and then take it out and do a good rip down the road,then check your pipes,where the lines are burnt off the best is where the pipe belongs. PS, those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors really work too! Hank

Originally Posted by halftanked

Dave,I was told a way to locate your pipe. Take a lumber marker and draw a straight line down the inside of both pipes,and then take it out and do a good rip down the road,then check your pipes,where the lines are burnt off the best is where the pipe belongs. PS, those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors really work too! Hank

This is just a driver, don't even have headers on it... I've used the chalk thing for years on collectors for drag cars----cut the collector where the chalk color matches the plug reading. Don't know as I would have room to put the H-Pipe that far forward on a pickup...... Did some looking at the store bought H and X pipes, seems most of them have the crossover in the vicinity of where the tailshaft bolts onto the transmission case.... Don't know, maybe without headers they don't do as much good for torque improvement. I'm using all mandrel bent 2 1/2" exhuast pipe so the pipes probably outflow the exhaust manifolds anyway.... Guess I'll be happy if the H-pipe takes the nasty cackle out of the exhaust sound....Always thought the pipes caclkling sounded great when I was a kid....Wonder why that changed??????

Never did like redneck crackle pipes, I will be watching your progress Dave, I will be curious on how this pipe works for you. I may want to do this to my car.

Originally Posted by halftanked

Dave,I was told a way to locate your pipe. Take a lumber marker and draw a straight line down the inside of both pipes,and then take it out and do a good rip down the road,then check your pipes,where the lines are burnt off the best is where the pipe belongs. PS, those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors really work too! Hank

That'll work. I do it with a non-contact digital thermometer just because I have one. It's interesting because with that, you can see just how big the temperature difference is at "the hot spot." It generally an area of only a very few inches and will be around 100 degrees~ hotter than the areas just ahead of and behind it.
You might also be interested to know that Magnaflow has dual in and out mufflers with an integral X built inside. I used one as a resonator when I built the current system that's now under my Vette. While it may not be practical for all cars, it worked well for me because it's configured just like my factory resonator was with a 4" center to center on the inlet/outlets. They also offer wider ones. They're entirely 304 stainless and while they retail for about $200, I found a brand new one on ebay for $100. Go to Magnaflow's site, go to "universal mufflers" and look around. Get the part number you need and then go web-shopping.

Originally Posted by brickman

Never did like redneck crackle pipes, I will be watching your progress Dave, I will be curious on how this pipe works for you. I may want to do this to my car.

With the mufflers as far back as I have them, along with the H-Pipe and large diameter exhaust pipe, it SHOULD have a deep sound and not a lot of restriction but still enough backpressure to work good.

Originally Posted by halftanked

PS, those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors really work too! Hank

My next personal test on the chassis dyno is to compare a set of headers with the 4 into 2 into 1 collectors to a set of tri-y headers and adjustable length collector on one of the drag cars. The car's owner and I have a huge bet (coffee and a donut) on which set will have the best numbers on the dyno!!!! Somehow, it makes perfect sense to me to spend $200.00 worth of dyno time to settle a $3.00 bet!!!!!

You bet, there is Hot Rod Rational at it's best, any reason to put a rig on a Dyno will do!! Which side of the bet are you on Dave? I will be using tri-y's on my Mopar so I will be watching this test closely.

Well, my money is on the 4 into 2 into 1 headers... Probably won't be til engine freshening time anyway.

Dave,
You could just put the H pipe where I did - about the only place it would fit without rebulding the entire system from the headers back. My main interest was to take interior drone and sharp sounds away - and if I was lucky and got it somewhere close to the right place, it might give me a bit more torque and maybe a MPG or so better.

Just a note - your cross pipe can be up to ~1/2" smaller in diameter. My head pipes are 2.25", the crossover is 2". This also makes fit up easier.

Great looking chassis IC2, did you silcone chaulk that brake light switch? That is such a bad place for grit and grimm that I have had to replace mine once already. The new one I siliconed around the edge of the meter where the wires attach and it has lasted almost 3 years now.

Originally Posted by IC2

Dave,
You could just put the H pipe where I did - about the only place it would fit without rebulding the entire system from the headers back. My main interest was to take interior drone and sharp sounds away - and if I was lucky and got it somewhere close to the right place, it might give me a bit more torque and maybe a MPG or so better.

Just a note - your cross pipe can be up to ~1/2" smaller in diameter. My head pipes are 2.25", the crossover is 2". This also makes fit up easier.

That setup looks great Dave. Looks like I can make it fit about the same place on mine, should have room under the transmission tailshaft without ending up with the crossover pipe hanging down below the frame rails. These old pickups have some huge frame rails!!! Guess I'm hoping for the same result, a nice mellow tone and whatever torque or efficiency improvements I get will just be a bonus....