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You know I bought this Edelbrock carb and have been pulling my hair trying to figure out a way to attach the factory T V cable to it . Well after a couple days of making template brackets I give up and just ordered the one that does the conversion . The valve covers are close so when it come in have to get it mounted and hope for the best .










I have the block type T V cable .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Bobby - will this help? I have a home made solid throttle link with 10-32 heims on a .25 shaft, a Lokar C4 kickdown cable and Lokar cruise control cable hooked to my Edelbrock through a Lokar and "Dave's Special" return spring bracket which then sits on a .75 or 1" isolator/spacer on my Performer RPM manifold. (Phew)

The cables aren't yet trimmed to length in the photo.

I like the vintage valve covers, Bobby. I dont remember seeing Ford ones with that script before.

Originally Posted by IC2

Bobby - will this help? I have a home made solid throttle link with 10-32 heims on a .25 shaft, a Lokar C4 kickdown cable and Lokar cruise control cable hooked to my Edelbrock through a Lokar and "Dave's Special" return spring bracket which then sits on a .75 or 1" isolator/spacer on my Performer RPM manifold. (Phew)

The cables aren't yet trimmed to length in the photo.

Dave did you use the return spring hole in linkage for the T V cable . My cable has a 2 inch throw and when I put it in the return spring hole it only gave me 1 1/2 inches of pull , not getting full T V engagement . I have a 88 AOD from a Mustang .

Originally Posted by falconvan

I like the vintage valve covers, Bobby. I dont remember seeing Ford ones with that script before.

Falcon these are the Ford HO version from the 80's still out there and cheap . My engine is a 84 HO with these covers and a Ford duel plane aluminum intake .

They look pretty cool, I always liked the ribbed cast aluminum ones. Are you going to swap out that EGR manifold?

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave did you use the return spring hole in linkage for the T V cable . My cable has a 2 inch throw and when I put it in the return spring hole it only gave me 1 1/2 inches of pull , not getting full T V engagement . I have a 88 AOD from a Mustang .

Bobby - I did use the existing hole in the Lokar bracket then had to fab a second bracket to bolt on to that bracket for the cruise control. I do have a fully modified transmission with a different kick down lever - take a look at the TCI trans web site or the Lokar site (here's their lever selection; http://www.lokar.com/product-descrip...4r70w-aode.htm)

One other way around that long throw for the TV/kick down may be to shorten the OEM lever on the transmission - plus there may be an OEM tranny lever that has a shorter carb end throw.

i am in the final stages of the 3rd stage of buildin a ride that i expect has to b one of the most unique drag race oriented street car ever concieved or built.
A 1988 BMW 327 AI Post Coupe...Present driveline includes, a combination of ported 70 heads, 75 block and 73 crank n tods Stage 1 455 Buick, Engine mods include forged alum 10-1 T/A / Ross Pistons, sealed power gapless top ring rings, 2.14 x 1.685 Ferrera Stainless steel valves, Poston/TA Grind Hydraulic cam( .523 x .538-105* LC x 106* LS- 296* x 302* dur )uniform CC'd heads @ 116cc's,T/A 1.65 shaft roller rockers, ARP head n main stds, T/A main Girdle, T/A / KB Dominator intake w/ 1050 Holley Dom, MSD 7AL3 Ignition system, 2 Stage NOS Dominator Wet Plate system, T/A 1 7/8ths p x 3" coll shorty headers, 3" exhaust w/ x - pipe. Coan TH400 Race Trans w/ 3500rpm BP TQ converter, custom steel D-Shaft, Ford 9" Axle with Strange Alum Center Section, Richmond Street 3.50 gear, Moser 31 spline axles suspended on a complete Mopar/Mancini Super Stock leaf spring system w/ Weld drag lite classic whls( 15 x 3 frnt 15 x 10 rear) 26 x 10.5 x 15 MT ET Streets. Front Suspended is STOCK save for redrilling of rotors and hubs for 5 x 4.5 GM blt circle n studs vs 4 x 5.5 bolt arrangement stock on BMW 3 series, Stock BMW frnt brakes w/ Wilwood 12" vented disc rears brakes.
Car Retains all but ABS, IRS, EFI, CRSE of its original equipment and features.
Has small tube 4130(1.25") chrome moly 8 pnt roll cage, dual D-shaft safty loops. NOS totals 300bhp, 125 1st stage, 175 add on 2cnd stage
Ultimate goal is hgh to mid 8's thru the exhaust on pmp gas.
The car has had and had in it both a 523 and a 535 cube Stage II based 455 Strokers as well as an all aftermarket 573 alum head that never made it into the car. 523 n 535, tho soon failing made clear that the 573 was going to b far more engine than i needed or could take full advantage of, too much tq 705lb/ft on mtr @ too low rpm 4862, 764bhp@ 6130rpm. not enuff to make the goal on mtr alone and too much to make up diff with spray w/o a complete redo tub n narrow of the rear suspension system which would defeat the wolf in sheeps clothing/ walk softly n carry a big stick theme the car is built on( allso why the use of the small tube chrome moly for the cage.
I am an OLD SCHOOL Drag Racer, predominantly and preferably, on the street for money, I believe a Street car can b made to b very reliable, driveable yet quick n fast w/o looking or sounding as quick or as fast as it actually is, IE: i like and build sleepers, predominantly over the years powered by B O P engines(Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac) since few racers know or r able to realize the potential of these engines or believe they even have it. Nothing is more satifying to me than the look on the face of a competitor who has jus been handed his azz by something and someone who they at 1st thought could not possibly have done so. This is why as well as the Bmer, i have a 1978 Buick Lesabre 4dr w/ Built 403 Olds V8, 3500 verter, TH350 Trans, 3.08 posi rear, AND a 1977 455 H.O. 5spd TKO 600 Tremec man trans WS6 Pontiac Trans Am
both with 2 stage wet plate spray systems, as well as a 406" SBC powered full sized Chevy Silverado long box w/ blt TH350, 2500 verter, 6" Steel H-Beam rods, KB forged flat top 0 deck( if the deck iof the block is unmachined from stock, the top of the crown of these pistons is even with the block deck at TDC, my block is decked .005, thus mine are that above the deck at TDC)
the engine is top by a set of PRO1 Irons w/ 2.05 x 1.60 vlvs, Edelbrock EPS intake, single stage N2O wet plate(150bhp) n Edelbrock 750 CFM carb( same carb as on the Buick's Olds SB V8).
Tho none of u may b B O P, or even Mopar or Ford fans, i expect that many of u will; have considerations about the combination of my Bmer which tho they may not b of any use in or on the car but may well point me in the direction of something that will b, so all, other than beligerant(hater) comments are welcome and greatly appreciated, remember, no matter how wise or educated u may b or think u r, even the dumbest person can teach u somethin if ur not IGNORANT and pay attention.
The engine in the car now is the STARTER/TESTER engine that i originally built for the car, After the scatter of the 523 n 535 engines in SHORT ORDER( both busted in the lifter valley n dropped valves..self destructed) I replaced this engine in the car w/ Headers( originally the mtr was installed w/ exh mans, since the Strokers were stage 2 based engines n stage 2 vs stage 1 headers do NOT INTERCHANGE, I originally only had a set of Stage 2 flanged headers made up), strangely or not, this is the engine which even w/ exhaust manifolds has provided the best performance by way of making for a more balanced combination. Power band is from 26-6300rpm w/ peak tq @aprox 4200 n peak hp aprox 6000rpm. approximations r cause after many dollars spent on dyno tests(engine n wheel) i found that not 1 single time did the end car RUN what the dyno figures indicated once sorted out, some ran BETTER, some WORSE than projected.
If ur a drag racer or a racer in any mtr sport contest based on RATE OF ACCELERATION, especially drag racin where this is figured from REST, loose the knotion of BHP n MPH as a really determining factors in ur ET, it isn't that they aren't, its that they r by far the least determining factors vs TQ n ET. Its simple, the more u weigh, the more tq u need to accellerate same from rest, the more tq u need the more traction u need, the more u weigh, the less tire u can use, AND the less exotic ur suspension needs to b. It follows that most tq times most traction = best drag race ET. NOTE, neither the driver, nor the cars reaction time change the amount of time it takes the car to actually MOVE from rest to the end of 1320ft, which is why ET and reaction times r seperate on ur ET slip ur actual ET is an addition of these 2 numbers. the clocks of the 1/4 do not start till the car MOVES, reaction is the time between when the car MOVES and the time the tree goes green. In a Drag Race u CAN run enuff MPH to over come a lack in tq n traction and win, IF u can turn enuff RPM QUICK enuff, either way it comes down to how QUICK, not how FAST. Besides, since HP is actually just a mathematical expression of TQ times a specified amount of RPM, it follows that the MORE TQ u make, the SOONER(quicker) u make it, the fewer RPM u need turn to achieve any amount of HP, back to even if u prefer HP numbers to TQ numbers ur still better served if u make as much tq as possible as low in ur serviceable rpm band as u possibly can. Many Folk seem to believe that unless ur able to pull the wheels on the leave, and or fry the tires ur not really running... if THATS SO, why is so much devoted in drag racing to limiting if not outright eliminating either ??? Wheels down, 0 wheel spin leaves r the goal...besides, the hgher the nose of the ride during the race, the more DRAG is incured, think of drag like extra weight w/o the benifit of extra traction or power....
IE: a drag coefficient of jus say .37 means at the wind speed that is needed to achieved that the car will accellerate as if its 37 per cent heavier than it actually is at rest, again... w/o the benifit of added traction or power
The car's smallest drag coefficient is AT REST, no matter what type of vehicle it is in fact....
an F-Body GM, Ford Stang, Mopar cuda/challenger all have a DCO between .33 and .40 stock at rest and most other popular brands, like the mid n full sized rides r much more....
Something about STREET CARS most folk seem not to realize, if u take the average door slammer hot rod, gut it of heater, lights, interior, wipers, ac, crse, pwr steering, windows, lock....then install cage, suspension n driveline durability n safty mods u MAY have saved 300lbs, and all in CARRIED weight, bout 3/10ths quicker at the track on ur BEST pass, is the inconvience, lost driver comfort, AND driveability worth that for something that is to b predominantly operated on the street ?

I wanted to change the dash configuration; the heater sat right on top of the doghouse and there was no place for a radio or other gauges. So I made a new top for the heater box and relocated it on the passenger side under the dash. Then I took some sheetmetal and built a lower dash section. That'll gave me some room for a radio, gauges, relocated heater controls, and I put in two vents, one for driver heat and one for defrost. I saved them and the flexduct from a conversion van I scrapped a long time ago. It's always good to have a junk box to dig in. The heater box has a door in the front for the passenger heat vent. Should give me room for a cupholder, too.

Here's a few more

That should work out a whole lot better!!! If you're drivin' a van ya gotta have tunes!!!! Nice work, Falcon!

Thanks Dave! I dont listen to much music but I got to have my conservative talk radio and my Cardinal baseball games.

Originally Posted by IC2

Bobby - I did use the existing hole in the Lokar bracket then had to fab a second bracket to bolt on to that bracket for the cruise control. I do have a fully modified transmission with a different kick down lever - take a look at the TCI trans web site or the Lokar site (here's their lever selection; http://www.lokar.com/product-descrip...4r70w-aode.htm)

One other way around that long throw for the TV/kick down may be to shorten the OEM lever on the transmission - plus there may be an OEM tranny lever that has a shorter carb end throw.

Dave I went and ordered a bracket for it figured take out the trouble . Matter of fact it should be here today . One thing I see is the different button on them , I have the block style with a pin that goes in about a 1/4 inch hole . I seen they made 2 style's of TV cables and hope I don't have to send it back .

Originally Posted by falconvan

They look pretty cool, I always liked the ribbed cast aluminum ones. Are you going to swap out that EGR manifold?

Falcon I just figure to use the block of plate for this one . Matter of fact this will be a easy fab at work .

Here's today's project; the old dash panel was full of extra holes from several add on toggle switches and it had a cable shifter mounted in it. I'm moving the shifter to the floor, plus cleaning up the wiring so I made a new panel. It'll have the speedo, tach, oil press and volts, along with headlight and wiper switch. The speedo has the fuel and temp incorperated in it; I'm leaving them as is. The ignition and heater controls will be on the center console.