Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Kewl deal Pro!! No more using the cutouts from a hole saw to mark out the radius!!!!

Yea, I used the inside of a roll of tape since I always have them around. Keeps it consistent. But not as consistent as the die cutter.

√ Everybody that is currently building a car...

Originally Posted by toofast_28

I cant' see the video... what do you mean by "corner rounder"?

This is really cool, Pro. Man, you need your own TV show on TLC. Stick you on right before "Overhaulin" and it'd be a perfect night of TV.

Looks fast for foot operation , air pump wouldn't move that fast . Some great insight as always Pro .

Just checking in. I've gotten my roller pretty much back together after finish work and painting. Is that a light I see up at the end of that tunnel?
98 Corvette gray on the frame, and a custom Dark green metalic pearl on the axles. the same green will eventually cover the bodywork.

Russ

Looking ready to eat some pavement! Nice job.

Hey Toys, what brand are the rear tires??? Neat tread pattern, might actually be driveable in the rain?

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Hey Toys, what brand are the rear tires??? Neat tread pattern, might actually be driveable in the rain?

Hoosier street radial. 29 x 18.5 x 15. no tubes required and H speed rated.
Drive a T in the rain?..... ummmm, not by choice .

Russ

Originally Posted by lotsatoys

Hoosier street radial. 29 x 18.5 x 15. no tubes required and H speed rated.
Drive a T in the rain?..... ummmm, not by choice .

Russ

Never by choice....but it does happen!!!!! Switched to Hoosier slicks for drag racing, curious how the street radials do???

Originally Posted by lotsatoys

Drive a T in the rain?..... ummmm, not by choice .

Russ

You just drive fast - the water and spray just goes right over you - that is until you make a slow left turn and then you get the LF tire spray in the face (now, how do I know that)

I changed up the design of the firewall some. The change affected the shape of the intercooler flange wells. I decided to stamp the parts, I guess mainly because I wanted to give stamping a try.
I cut dies out of 3/4" MDF board & stamped the sheet metal on the press.



then I rough trimmed the parts.



cleaned them up



Welded the front & back halves together



Once I had the tube flanges where I wanted them I welded them together.

Sorry I got carried away on the project & by the time I remembered to take pictures I had the outlet tube firewall sheet metal done.
This is the firewall before...



and with the intercooler tubes part of the sheet metal in place.





The inlet side is just a simple pie plate deal that will be trimmed & welded into the firewall eventually.
The outlet side was a little more complicated. I didn't want to run the plumbing off to the side (the way it's usually done). I wanted the carb hat facing straight back. Also, the engine is set back about 4" from the stock location. So, the 4" inlet tube has about 3/8" clearance between the windshield and about 1" clearance for the distributor. It's all pretty close but it fits. . The "through the firewall sheet metal'' for the inlet tube ended up looking sorta like shoving the flange through a hefty hefty trash bag.

...and here's what it looks like from "the office".

Looks great Pro!!! Some really first rate plumbing and sheet metal fabrication, well planned and very well executed!!! A+ on the craftsmanship and attention to detail!!!!

+2

Pro a little use of a binder to restrict flow and allow it at the same time will eliminate those wrinkles . Make any shape you can think of your cnc can cut you some die's .