Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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David,
These guys Custom Headers Built To Your Specifications have a mock up kit that's made up of some adjustable joints coupled with plastic pipe. Wonder if a guy could do the same thing with a basket of 90's, 45's, and unions and a couple of sticks of schedule 40 plastic pipe? Just thinking....

Roger,

That might work. I'm hoping to find something flexible. I've been digging the net for something like memory foam to speed things up for me. Since I'm trying to do equal lengths I'm sure it's going to be quite the conglomeration of j bends etc so I was hoping for something real flexible to help speed the process.

So far it's been fun. I like the fabricating side of anything. It's the grueling finish work that wears me down.....like body work. Lols.

David

Hard to find a mandrel bender that will do the thin exhaust tubing without kinking, most die sets of header tube size will do a minimum of around .080" tube, double the thickness of most headers... They get to be real hi-dollar units to do the thin wall stuff...

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Hard to find a mandrel bender that will do the thin exhaust tubing without kinking, most die sets of header tube size will do a minimum of around .080" tube, double the thickness of most headers... They get to be real hi-dollar units to do the thin wall stuff...

That what I was afraid of. So what kind of bender will work for the bare basics without kinks? What do I look for in their spec sheets before actually calling them? Woodward? Or are we talking the huge floor units like a muffler shop uses. Honestly Ive always wanted a nice tune bender and don't mind spending money on one. I've got a ton of project ideas I'd like to tackle. Reverse trike, rock buggy, etc.

David

Just check the specs on what wall thickness, minimum and maximum, the bender will handle. I've bought some of my stuff from a Company called Trick Tools, all quality stuff and genuine racers to help with your questions!!!! Tricktools.com I think is their website, they handle all the good names. Probably going to end up with a Baleigh bender to get what you want! They're spendy, but super quality. If you call down there, talk to Christian, he's a drag racer and really knows his stuff!!!!

I go the cheap route & buy prebent mandrel tubing. Then just piece it together like a puzzle.



Before I pick up the scaffold deck with the tall forks 12', I wanted a little assurance it wouldn't tip over, so I'm building outriggers. There's not a lot of room on one of these things to fit out riggers but I found a place where everything clears everything else, just barely.





I still have some gussets to add & a couple other odds & ends.

Then I have a flow restrictor to build to slow the bucket down when the scaffold is attached.

Looks neat Pro!!!! Christian, over at Trick Tools, is an Eddyville racer!!!! Their shop is in Pella. Isn't that kind of around your old home?????

At the site that Roger referanced--they have an group of videos about header fabrication tips--good watching--

I buy my flanges from Chris and also some bends--you can get pretty reasonable costs if you buy J bends as they have some longer sections of straight tube than 90s, also get some different c/l radius so tubes can set inside each other (spooning), and if you want to use step headers it can actually simplify things by sliding tubes together
Another source I use for header bits, collectors and assembly items is ConeEngineering in alifornia====coneeng.com

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

That what I was afraid of. So what kind of bender will work for the bare basics without kinks? What do I look for in their spec sheets before actually calling them? Woodward? Or are we talking the huge floor units like a muffler shop uses. Honestly Ive always wanted a nice tune bender and don't mind spending money on one. I've got a ton of project ideas I'd like to tackle. Reverse trike, rock buggy, etc.

David

David,
Most of the stuff I've seen from muffler shops has all kinds of wrinkles & kinks in it. I think you'll be much better off using pre-bent's like Jerry suggested, especially the J bends as they have a short & long end that gives lots of flexibility. Looking at the units from Stainless Headers MFG they're done with pre-bent sections, at least it appears that way to me. You can always grind the welds smooth and polish if you use SS and TIG them.

Working on the pickup for awhile. I got the gouges sanded out of the hood and the dent knocked out of the front rolled pan. Still a bit of work to do on the headlight openings then it'll be time to shoot some paint on all the primered pieces! Would like to find out for sure who the dipstick was that vandalized the truck, I'd like to have a little chat with him!!! Under the hood, all the plug wires were pulled off, the power lead to the distributor was cut, and the short fuel line between the filter and carb was cut half way through with a razor blade..... Fixed things up and ran it for awhile late yesterday, everything works fine now....

Thanks guys. I'm going to continue on with the mild steel mock ups. If I like how they turn out I might have them coated after welding and grinding or make a set out of stainless using the mild steel mock up as a reference like everyone suggested. I decided to dig deep and spend the coin on a Steer Clear unit. That way I can put the steering shaft just over the frame rail. That'll give me the extra room to make these equal length. Also need to buy a shorty column to give more foot clearance for brake and throttle pedal. Had my mind set on using everything I already had but I just don't want to have to work around all these little pesky problems.

Hi ho, hi ho, off to the shop I go.

David

It's always nice to be able to use what you have, but when it costs you more time and grief then the new stuff, why bother????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Working on the pickup for awhile. I got the gouges sanded out of the hood and the dent knocked out of the front rolled pan. Still a bit of work to do on the headlight openings then it'll be time to shoot some paint on all the primered pieces! Would like to find out for sure who the dipstick was that vandalized the truck, I'd like to have a little chat with him!!! Under the hood, all the plug wires were pulled off, the power lead to the distributor was cut, and the short fuel line between the filter and carb was cut half way through with a razor blade..... Fixed things up and ran it for awhile late yesterday, everything works fine now....

Dave that would really torque me. I think a security camera catching him in action, followed by a quick callto the police would be a good start.

Rats! Forgot the motor is set back in the firewall so the Steer Clear just won't work without even more mods. Going with a 28" column now so I won't have the shift linkage in the way and I'll be able to move the colmn over another 1" for much needed room.

Wow....big plus. I found a fuel tank that'll fit without re-modifying the rear frame rails. Tanks makes a nice EFI tank for 64-68 Mustangs. I'll be able to mount it directly to the bottom of frame rails. Perfect. I like it when stuff starts making sense. This will be a Chevy, Pontiac, Corvette, Ford, Dodge truck when finished. LOL's. Anyone have any acronyms that'll work with the above? LOLs.

David

Originally Posted by stovens

Dave that would really torque me. I think a security camera catching him in action, followed by a quick callto the police would be a good start.

Cops are busy on other things.....Hate to bother them when I could handle it just fine myself.......