Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

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Oh Yeh----On my Prostock Firebird, I used on of those--off a pinto--not a single u joint in the column--in case any one turns there nose up at Pinto---they are also used on some BMW or Mercedes also---

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

I don't think you want to take too much out of that roof unless you're going for the cartoon look. In profile, from the bottom of the window opening to the bottom of the door it's pretty tall looking, so proportion wise it already has somewhat of a chopped look. Now to complicate that chop a bit more. The roof appears, at least in a two dimensional photo, to have a "hump" to the rear of the roof panel, sort of like what some guys go for in a slant chop. The windshield and back glass are already comparatively low profile, so if you went a subtle chop, say 2" the front and back would feel like tank gun slits from the inside. So, suggestion, two inch chop in the front, 3 or so in the back, BUT don't cut either front or back glass. The back window is easy, just jog your cut line under the opening. The front would be a bit more of a challenge to blend the roof panel so it didn't look too short above the opening. It might mean a tweak to the windshield opening of say 1/2 or 3/4" chop to pull off. There...........didn't want to make it too simple for you. This would be one of those where an accomplished photo shopper would be handy to know.

I think I'm gathering your thoughts Bob. Funny you mention mail slots because thats definitely what I want to avoid. I think I understand what you guys mean by the tall 2 dimentional height on the cab. You do mean the odd height above the window openings? I noticed that when I first got the truck. There was just something to put it nicely....goofy about the top of the cab. Its a side view that looks odd....correct? Too much metal above the door. Think I should shave the top door rail down some. Then drop the cab to it? Of coarse, that wouldnt be much of a change. Then I could take a very small amount out of the glass area? Or should I just figure out how to section the top dropping it down an inch making a lower profile out of the top itself? I think thats what you mean?

It looks a little odd from the front right now because the windshield frame isnt in it. Makes the windshield look real tall in comparison with the top of the door glass.

Going to take quite a bit of thought to figure out how to level out the top of the cab abit with out messing it up. Hmmm. Bob, you've got my wheels spinning in my head. LOL's.

EDIT: How about leaving the windshield frame out, raising the top of the door frame so the top of the door glass matches the top of the windshield, then chop a couple inches. During the chop I can maintain the entire back glass by cutting around it as you suggested. I think everything evolves around the ammount of metal above the door frame, by raising the door frame (essentially) or leaving the door alone and dropping the top cutting out for the factory door shape? LOL's.

Originally Posted by 1gary

I remember on a super gas BBC Vega Mark had a flexible what looked like a tightly wound heavy spring the was used as a flexible intermediate steering shaft that easily snaked pass the headers.I wish I could post some pictures for you,but I have none and maybe someone from here could fill in the blanks in terms for that.I thought it would shake like crazy,but it was straight and normal as anything going.It did make tight spaces easy.

With the new column I'm not going to have any trouble at all with header clearance. Itll pop out right above the edge of the frame rail. The only thing I'm not going to like is I have to double up on the joints to stay below the 30 degree minimum, which will place the shaft high above the frame at the cab. Good thing I kept the engine skirts. I do have a vibration dampner at the rack unit.

David

Since you're asking for opinions.. regarding the chop.. I wouldn't do more than 3/4"! Just enough to make those that know the body style go HMMmmm.... I like the cab as it sits now, it looks like a pickup! And I agree that your dash angle is too severe!

I'm glad to see you working on this again, I missed watching your work.

You could section it that would solve your roof problems. Take a few inches out of the belt line. If I were you I'd get a few photos and a pair of sissors and tape to see what looks good to you.

For what it's worth - I would leave it just the way it sits. Get it primed, running, licensed and on the road. Then wring out the bugs. If after a season or so you really don't like how it looks, then think about a roof chop. The tops on these are kinda awkward looking but the right paint scheme can also change the appearance.

about 2.5 out of belt

Sorry, had to bail on you guys yesterday right in the middle of asking you questions. My desktop decided it would have a data dump! And forgot the IPAD at my dads. And my wife had to do school work on hers. And my step daughters computer is junk. Blah blah blah. You get the picture.

For now I am looking to get it running first like Dave mentioned but was entertaining the idea of correcting the odd look to the cab eventually before I get too far with body work. I think I can collectively make a decision now with everyone's ideas.

Now trying to get this PC going again. Sometimes I really dislike technology.

David

One last thing to finish it off. Every time I am out doing a job (well most of the time Ann E. Weigh), I tell myself I need a tool box for Geves for screws, tools, etc.
I also find myself finishing up jobs in the dark from time to time especially this time of year, so & took care of both problems by fabricating a lighted toolbox. The headlights are actually LED back up lights for a truck, but work perfect for this app. Side makers are LED too so they won't put too much of a strain on the alternator. Pretty bright they are, I replaced the front incandescent side makers on the trailer with the same units & they are definitely brighter. I also have some battery powered magnetic base LED flashers coming to keep in the truck that I can slap on equipment when I'm unloading/loading the trailer.
I have a fuel filter, oil/oil filter & air cleaner change to make & see if I can get the glow plugs to work, then I'm all done with this deal & ready for sign work this spring.
(I'll be trying it out Monday since I have a real estate sign to take down & reinstall on another property).






On the "Z" front, I think I may have Jeff talked into trying my Rossler 210 in his camaro this summer. He's a die hard 6 speeder, but I think he'll be hooked when he sees what a difference a good tranny can do for his E.T.'s.

Good lighting is really important to be able to get the work done!!! Seems as I get older, the light bulbs lose their power!!!!!!

Originally Posted by dave severson

seems as i get older, the light bulbs lose their power!!!!!!

:lol:x2 :lol:

..............o.k. 1 more project & then it's time to get back on the "Z".
I have an issue with the stomp shear.


It's in a small out building along with the lawn mower & other stuff like that, so there's not much space. Where the shear is setting now, I can shear sheet stock length wise but to sheer the end off a 4x I have to run the sheet up the opposing wall (small building). If I could turn it 90° it would work great for shearing off the end of a 4x, but I wouldn't have room to shear length wise. The deal weighs 2,600 lbs. so it's not something you can just spin around like a couch. For some reason the stop gauge only goes to 26''. I need it to go 48'' deep.
So, I'm building a truck that will be permanently bolted to the shear so I'll be able to move it wherever I need to cut whatever I need to cut, & I'm going to add a 48'' stop gauge so I don't have to use a tape measure for anything over 26''. Here's what I have so far....


Got the basic frame tacked together. There's a couple places I'll have to cut back out once this much is welded together.


Cutting reliefs in the hinge parts, soz' the hinges don't bind.


Got the hinges all clamped together on a 3/4" shaft to keep everything aligned while tacking them together.


Hinges all welded & tacked to the truck frame.


Mocked up in what will be the down position. Picks the stomp shear up little over 1/2'' so it can be rolled around on the urethane wheels.


I got a few linkage parts cut out & decided to call it a day..........''It's a day''.

That ought to make using the shear a whole lot more handy!!! Nice to have the big shop equipment, but it does take some creative engineering to make it usable in a small shop!!!! Good planning!

Got my boo-boo's fixed on the Plymouth and repainted the areas that were damaged... I've got probably a day's worth of cut and buff left then I can get on with finishing the car up finally!!!! It's not done, but I think I can see the end from here!!!!!

boo boo's suck. I get them and wonder where my eyes were the first time around.